Horn Buttons

Trey

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One thing on our new Cordoba that doesn't work are the horn buttons and my car won't pass inspection without a horn. I have looked the last couple days and haven't had any luck locating any. I would assume these aren't reproduced but does anyone have a good set or is there another steering wheel from another Mopar that will work and look close to stock? Aftermarket wheels would be my last choice as I want to keep the car as original as possible. The wheel looks like this if it's any help. Thanks for any help.
s-l1600.jpg
 

barbee6043

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I just mount a button switch under the dash for the horn. Check and see if it is making good contact, could need cleaning, and if the horns actually got power. He work by the switch making a ground.
 

Trey

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Thanks for the reply. The problem is the horn blows all the time because the buttons have what looks like a piece of foam to separate the contacts and it has deteriorated over the years. The previous owner just removed the fuse to kill the horns. I may end up with a button like you suggest until I can repair/replace these. The steering wheel is almost perfect so I'd like to keep it. thanks again.
 

barbee6043

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Place a wanted ad here or on some of the numerous F body sites in Facebook. Parts are out there!
 

old yellow 78

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I had success by using double sided adhesive foam tape insulation to replace the original deteriorated foam. It was a bit more firm than the original, but it worked. It is sold in hardware stores where you get insulation for doors and windows.
 

89.Fifth

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Thanks for the reply. The problem is the horn blows all the time because the buttons have what looks like a piece of foam to separate the contacts and it has deteriorated over the years. The previous owner just removed the fuse to kill the horns. I may end up with a button like you suggest until I can repair/replace these. The steering wheel is almost perfect so I'd like to keep it. thanks again.

So you just need replacement foam? That shouldn't be too tough.
 

Trey

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Thanks for the suggestions.Thought I'd post up my fix and maybe it would help someone else.
Here's what I started with. There's no space between the contacts:
horn1.gif


I took it apart to examine. As I thought, the foam was toast:
horn2.gif


I removed the backing of the foam from the contacts:
horn3.gif

Cleaned the adhesive from the contacts with lacquer thinner. The clean one is silver:
horn4.gif

I couldn't find foam weatherstrip that was thin enough but I found two sided tape I thought would work. Some folks call it carpet tape. Comparison pic to the thinnest foam insulation (1/8") I could find and the carpet tape:
horn5.gif

Here's how I attached the carpet tape. I couldn't make the little holes like the factory piece but felt I could get close:
horn6.gif

And here it is back together, notice there's clearance between the contacts now. Sorry about the blurry pic. I repaired the other half the same way and put it in the car and it works like a charm. It took less time to do this than what I spent hunting new switches:
horn7.gif
 
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BudW

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I have repaired a number of those “foam style” switches before – especially when either parts were not available or at end of day Friday, etc. to get customer back on the road again. The thick double stick tape works best – if thick enough (might have to double up). I have also used felt (doubled up).
When using felt, I’ve used the thin double-sided tape. The double-sided tape is not great-but does hold things together long enough to get the holes punched and thing but back together with. I then used a leather punch or a paper punch to make the holes with.

Leather Punch a.jpg

This style with a sharp punch and a piece of wood/sturdy plastic works best (if available).

Hole Punch a.jpg


Leather Punch b.jpg

These styles also work – but you might have to make multiple holes, per hole.

Note: I’ve even seen new switches that the foam is already deteriorating/falling apart – so even if you can find a NOS switch – means no guarantee that it will not be in same condition as your existing switch.

Just whatever material you use does need to have "give" to it, is not a conductor of electricity and keeps the two electrical contacts close but away from each other. When I mean close, I mean a person must push to make electrical contact. You don’t want to run over a pothole and have your horn go off.

With that, the sky might be your limit as to what materials to use.

The only thing I don't have is pictures of past work.
BudW
 

old yellow 78

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I'm going to be putting the three spoke wheel that I got from member "silverd1973" on OY soon, now that I am finally getting to work on the interior. It has a few cracks, but is one of the best that I have seen - actually one of the very few that I have seen! I will probably have to do this to make the horns work - or maybe stop working :D
IMG_3208.JPG
 

Ele115

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Eastwood has the materials to repair those types of steering wheels. I used it on a 49 Cadillac and it held up well
 

BudW

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The horn switches on that steering wheel is two strips of metal the length of the three arms (3½ inch long? each) with a piece of foam between the metal strips. The foam collapses to allow the metal contacts to make the circuit. In this case, that foam deteriorates over time and allows the two strips to make contact on their own (which is not good). It is not a hard fix but cumbersome sense all three strips are held together with wires that are joined in the middle.

"If memory is correct, looks like this"
Horn Switch.png


The part number for the switch is P147MX9. It has been discontinued by Chrysler for a while, but it appears a few might still be out there. Retail price (if found) is $54.50 (US).
P147MX9.png

(three switches and three covers)

The part number for the spoke cover (vinyl?) is 4019457, which was only recently discontinued by Chrysler. If a dealer has one, the retail price is $13.50 (US).

Mopar NOS 1976-79 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler 3 Spoke Wheel Horn Switch ALL P147MX9 | eBay

Set of (3) Mopar Dodge Horn Buttons Button Pads Part No. 4019457 OEM 26577 | eBay This one is marked as a spoke cover, but it is for a switch and three spoke covers (mismarked). This one is not bad price wise, so I might recommend getting it, rebuilding it and your existing switch, and placing the spare switch in a vacuum food bag (to prevent air damaging the foam). The spare should last forever without air touching it.

Also, be sure to clean the metal contacts before assembly.
BudW
 

Dr J

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Thanks for the suggestions.Thought I'd post up my fix and maybe it would help someone else.
Here's what I started with. There's no space between the contacts:View attachment 35091

I took it apart to examine. As I thought, the foam was toast:View attachment 35092

I removed the backing of the foam from the contacts:View attachment 35094
Cleaned the adhesive from the contacts with lacquer thinner. The clean one is silver:View attachment 35095
I couldn't find foam weatherstrip that was thin enough but I found two sided tape I thought would work. Some folks call it carpet tape. Comparison pic to the thinnest foam insulation (1/8") I could find and the carpet tape:View attachment 35096
Here's how I attached the carpet tape. I couldn't make the little holes like the factory piece but felt I could get close:View attachment 35097
And here it is back together, notice there's clearance between the contacts now. Sorry about the blurry pic. I repaired the other half the same way and put it in the car and it works like a charm. It took less time to do this than what I spent hunting new switches:View attachment 35098
Do you have to pull the steering wheel to do this????
 

Dr J

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The horn switches on that steering wheel is two strips of metal the length of the three arms (3½ inch long? each) with a piece of foam between the metal strips. The foam collapses to allow the metal contacts to make the circuit. In this case, that foam deteriorates over time and allows the two strips to make contact on their own (which is not good). It is not a hard fix but cumbersome sense all three strips are held together with wires that are joined in the middle.

"If memory is correct, looks like this"
View attachment 35607

The part number for the switch is P147MX9. It has been discontinued by Chrysler for a while, but it appears a few might still be out there. Retail price (if found) is $54.50 (US).
View attachment 35608
(three switches and three covers)

The part number for the spoke cover (vinyl?) is 4019457, which was only recently discontinued by Chrysler. If a dealer has one, the retail price is $13.50 (US).

Mopar NOS 1976-79 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler 3 Spoke Wheel Horn Switch ALL P147MX9 | eBay

Set of (3) Mopar Dodge Horn Buttons Button Pads Part No. 4019457 OEM 26577 | eBay This one is marked as a spoke cover, but it is for a switch and three spoke covers (mismarked). This one is not bad price wise, so I might recommend getting it, rebuilding it and your existing switch, and placing the spare switch in a vacuum food bag (to prevent air damaging the foam). The spare should last forever without air touching it.

Also, be sure to clean the metal contacts before assembly.
BudW
Do you have to pull the steering wheel to do this????
 

BudW

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No, the steering wheel can remain on - BUT the wire going to the round electrical contact washer (on back side of wheel) can be tricky to get on/off without small pliers or without damaging the connector. Taking the wheel off doesn't make that job any easier or harder or more/less likely to damage that electrical connector. Just take your time and don't try to force anything. If you damage the connector going the the back side contact washer, then you will have to take the wheel off and find some way to fix it.
BudW
 

Kramer79

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Any common wiring for horn and fuel pick up? I now have no horn, and I did replace the fuel pick up but neither work… I think I read something about a 6 volt step down somewhere… I may just splice the horn wire and grab a button…
 

BudW

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The fuel gauge, temperature gauge (or oil pressure gauge, if equipped) all use 5 volts, via a "stepped" voltage regulator on back side of instrument cluster. It looks like this:
VRC 601.jpg

This is its location on an F-body (on the other side of PC board, so hidden from view):
Volare Cluster Back m.jpg


It is not a true voltage regulator. The gauges are slow to respond, so the regulator sends out 12 volt pulse for a moment then stops, then again. On average, it comes out to 5 volts. You don't want to give the gauges a full 12 volts or they will burn out.
If checking with a volt meter at either of those sending units, a needle meter will show ~5 volts. A DVM (Digital Volt Meter) will have readings all over the place.

One nice thing is the resistance reading for fuel sender, temp sender (or oil pressure sender, if equipped) are the same, so you can take a spare fuel sending unit and can use it to test any of those three gauges for operation (at each sender connection). Both ends of travel on fuel sender should show both limits on the above mentioned gauges.
The problem is for most of us is having access to a spare fuel sending unit.
This method does not work with the dummy oil pressure light.


The horn is on a completely different circuit and uses a full 12 volts, at all points.
BudW
 

Kramer79

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Thanks! Temp gauge is fine… I’ll trace the wires and clean the fuel wire connectors again and see what is up…
 

Kramer79

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New horn button, hopefully I get used to the location! I used a coat hanger to run two wires through firewall using the hood release grommet, hooked one to the battery, the other to one of the green horn wires, then drilled the hole in the plastic, hooked up the button…. Hopefully both work, I only gave it a quick tap as little people asleep…
83CCDEA5-4512-4281-AB06-EDF5059F6FB0.jpeg
 

Kramer79

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And… only one of the two now works… when testing to the battery they both worked, must be the wiring pattern or ground I’m missing
 
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