Father outwards (towards the L/F frame rail).
I’ll see if I can take some pictures to clarify.
I’ll see if I can take some pictures to clarify.
I've done it already........Fairly sure – but not tested to confirm.
If you supply either a Nitrous or a blower, I can go find out – to confirm my theses?
It might be fun just finding out.
BudW
Yeah maybe just a little, that sounds right.Father outwards (towards the L/F frame rail).
I’ll see if I can take some pictures to clarify.
Since you got the MSD for free, yeah you might as well use it, but is way overkill.
Don't get carried away with the timing in that thing, or you will get into detonation pretty quick. The factory ELB computer did a pretty good job on the timing end of things. So much so that 5ths,up here, regularly get 25 mpgs on the hiway. That is 20mpgUS.
The new rear gears will be a tremendous improvement to 2.2s; almost 40% better. Your car will feel like it just got a turbo.
I would encourage you to get that installed first.
The 4 bbl will do nothing for you with those 2.2s, until over 40 mph, and it won't amount to much.
Whereas the gears will improve performance everywhere. With the new gears, the 4bbl will start to pull at around 30 mph.That is also a very nice improvement. Keep in mind that even on a hotrod engine, the secondaries only add about 8 to10% power. On a 300 hp engine this is 30hp. On your teener it might make 15hp difference and it won't make that until maybe 4500 or 56 mph in first with 2.21s.
I know exactly what you mean; My dad left me his 5th when he died.It was exactly like that. I never bothered to register it, and sold it for what the new tires on it were worth.Hitting the kickdown at 65 mph or higher is a joke, almost pointless... just wheezes along waiting to shift back to 3rd lol
I know exactly what you mean; My dad left me his 5th when he died.It was exactly like that. I never bothered to register it, and sold it for what the new tires on it were worth.
Your engine will not pull over 200 cfm until, well over 3000rpm,and that with a free-flowing dual exhaust, not the crippling factory single pipe.And when it does it is hardly gonna hit a wall, it will pull thru that little carb until it blows up.It will continue to pull no problem, until long after the cam is choking.So your 4bbl will not add any airflow until perhaps 3000 rpm at the earliest,which being what again? Oh yeah 34 mph with 2.74lowx2.4sx26tires,IIRC,lol. And if you haven't altered your timing curve, that teener may be ready to drop its skirts into the pan.Be very careful to stay out of detonation.
The big TQ has 1.5 primary blades, about the same as most teener 2bbls.
One thing you may have overlooked is that 2bbls and 4bbls are rated differently as to flow and are not directly comparable.IIRC 2bbls are flowed at 3 inches and 4bbls are at 1.5. And I have forgotten the conversion formula.
I once installed a BBD onto a 340 that easily pulled to 5500 and more. It was a dynomite combo with the rest of the pkg.
If you want passing power, the quickest way to get it is with gears.
If your engine is loafing along at 2060@65(2.45s) and you stomp it, she will kick down into second at 3170 plus slip,say 3330. How much torque is there? Lemme guess 115 ftlbs. If you had the 4 bbl open there, and if it added a whopping 10% horsepower, that would translate to about 10 ftlbs for a grand total of 125 ftlbs. Lets put this into perspective;
>125 at the crank times 1.54tranny gear x 2.45rear gear x12/13tire correction=424 road ftlbs. Now lets say your car weighs 4000 pounds with you in it.This then is 4000/424=9.43ftlbs per pound of car weight.This is about 1/100th of a performance car might have.
>Without the 4bbl it would have been 9.92.So this is an improvement of 5.2%
>Now lets remove the 4bbl and install those 3.07s
115 x 1.54x3.07x12/13=502 ftlbs, and 4000/502=7.97 ftlbs per pound.
This is an improvement of 9.92/7.97=plus 24.4%
I'll tell you a secret;3.07/2.45=25.3% improvement, so you can skip almost all the math.
Now lets put the 4bbl back on, and add back those 10 ftlbs at 3330rpm
(115+10)x1.54x3.07x12/13=545 ftlbs, and 4000/545=7.33 pounds per pound, a further improvement of 7.97/7.33=8.8%. Now the 4bbl is making a difference.
We have gone from 9.92 to 7.33, a total of 9.92/7.33=plus 35%@3330 rpm.
>Bottom line is;How is this gonna affect your passing power? I can't say; I have never been in this situation. I've never owned a 4000pound .......anything,lol. And if I wouldda, it wouldn't have had a teener in it,by the time it was road-legal.
BTW;
I chose 115 ftlbs not to be exactly representative of a real teener at 3330rpm. It doesn't matter what the true number might be,cuz I worked everything out in percentages, and those will not change no matter what you actually input as to torque.That is the beauty of percents, no initial accuracy required. I could have inputted 200 or 2000 ftlbs as a starting torque, the percent change would have remained the same. So, take heart, your particular teener may not be as anemic as 115ftlbs at 3330rpm.lol.
maybe I should have grossed it up some.............................................
I vote NOT going to any more than the 3.07s. These will get you 4170rpm at 65, and your cam was done several hundred rpm ago. So she will be done pulling real quick.Not done reving, but done pulling. The valve springs may be good to 4500 or a little less; watch for it!
They say there is no substitute for cubic inches
And nowhere is this more applicable than starting from zero mph!
This is also why you couldn't give me a teener. By the time it is making decent midrange, the bottom is getting soft. And by the time the top-end is there, the bottom is all but gone. Then come the bandaids to get it moving off the line. Bandaids like Hi-stalls and gears.
Man just drop a 360 in it and call it done. Forty Two cubes, puts all the bottom-end in there you will ever need in a streeter.
Power them both up to 300 hp and as to the bottom end and even the midrange,the teener is sick in comparison.
This matters not much when the engine is wound up. But from a stop, the 360 needs nothing while the teener needs many dollars to keep up, and then it burns gas at an alarming rate around town.The only cure for this is for the teener car to go on a major weight loss program, so the teener doesn't have to have that stinking race-cam,lol.
No-sir, you couldn't give me 10 teeners for a performance 2nd gen A-body, or anything heavier.
Actually I would accept one with;
a 210ish cam,and a Dcr of about 8.6 in conjunction with a tight-Q
A free-flowing dual-exhaust,
small-port heads, a small-port intake, and a small 4bbl of 390 to 500.
Yes-sir, I could make that work with an A518, and 3.73/2400TC or 3.91s/2200TC. Hyup,I think that recipe is good.
So in conclusion, I stand corrected;
There is no substitute for cubic inches, when saddled with really poor gears and a lot of weight,lol.
3 superchargers in series . . . or in parallel?One way to overcome any of the above concerns and to disprove the "no replacement for replacement theory"
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All true, but you only start losing bottom end when the cam is changed. All the "bolt-on" stuff just helps boost breathing at higher RPMs but doesn't take anything away from the bottom. Obviously you can only do so much until the engine is at its max airflow capacity with the stock cam/heads etc. and that's exactly where I want to take this engine. Maximize airflow and power with the stock long block and cam, and give the engine a break from having to lug the car around with absurdly high gear ratios.
BTW I like 318 because gas mileage lol. Sure a 360 will do OK with overdrive/tall gears, but a 318 will always do better set up similarly simply because it's smaller. The purpose of my 5th Ave is a cheap, comfy, reasonably fun-to-drive cruiser that can get over 20 MPG on the highway and go anywhere without worrying about something breaking down. Right now it does the cheap, comfy, and 20 highway MPG part with ease but fun to drive? Not really.