My 1978 lebaron

[Duke5A]

Depends on what pan you're using. I'm using the baffled road race pan and that required trimming.

You shouldn't need to unbolt the booster. Providing you already have the small diameter booster you should be able to get away with taking the valve cover off.

 

[TheSkunk]

I don’t have the k car booster yet still stock booster so I will think I’ll have to and I have a Milodon 7 quart low pro pan so not sure yet how much I’ll need to trim

 

[Duke5A]

I don’t have the k car booster yet still stock booster so I will think I’ll have to and I have a Milodon 7 quart low pro pan so not sure yet how much I’ll need to trim

Factory large diameter booster doesn't even come close to clearing. You'll need to pull it out.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

You could go to a smaller dual-chamber booster (still factory, which is what I have in my coupe), but even with my SB it's pretty tight in there.

In fact I have been pondering the question of replacing that with a smaller unit stil.

Anyone have a handy part number that works in our rides?

@Duke5A What are you using in your setup? Did that bolt up to all the other factory hardware as-is (I'm thinking the master cylinder in the engine bay and pedal linkage on the inside)?

 

[Duke5A]

Yeesh, it's been six years now. Little fuzzy. Booster was purchased from an Auto Zone. They had photos of the parts on the computer. I think I looked up late 70's cars right before they discontinued big blocks. Might have been an R body.

Booster bolted in fine, but I had to make a bushing for the pedal linkage.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

I thought done people doing the swap were using a K car booster?

 

[Duke5A]

I thought done people doing the swap were using a K car booster?

That's an option. I don't remember why I didn't go that direction.

 

[TheSkunk]

I’m planning on going k car booster once the engine is in. I found a thread about it awhile back but can’t seem to find it now.

 

[TheSkunk]

Alright guys need some insight.

Installed a set of f bodys pedals from brewers.



Got them mocked up but noticed my clutch linkage is hitting this electronic “box” attached to the steering column. looks to have a rod connected to my ignition cylinder? Any ideas on this or solutions is it important?

lol I mean wouldn’t be the first car I ran on a toggle switch

 

[Duke5A]

I would pull the column out and get up on a bench. You might be able to shorten the rod and move the ignition switch further up the column. I have no idea it this will work, but getting the column out of the car will give you the access to asses this. I pulled the tilt column out of my car to repair the steering wheel coming lose. It's not that bad getting it out.

 

[TheSkunk]

Man being the family mechanic really takes up more time then I care to admit but now that we have time. An update on the car.

After 7 no 8 attempts the engine is in. Maybe it’s my adhd or I was just overzealous but shumachers instructions wasn’t much help. But finally got everything trimmed and “massaged” to fit.

Going to put the bellhousing, trans and trans mount in this week to make sure everything still lines up correctly.

Will have to pull it one more time to paint k member after adjustments and install headers.

Will look into my ignition issue once I get this car out of the house garage (higher rafters) and back to the shop garage.

 

[TheSkunk]

Am I just over thinking it or is it crooked? it’s level but seems like the front and rear isn’t square. Engine in mounts, brackets not tighten and trans and trans mount in. idk if it’s me being paranoid or if I should try to modify the mounts I’ll tighten everything in the morning n see if it changes anything

 

[Duke5A]

You bought the wrong mounts. The ones you have are spool big block mounts for cars that were equipped with big blocks from the factory. You need the conversion mounts for spool SB to BB. I made this EXACT SAME mistake when swapping to my big block and got the exact same result with a cockeyed engine.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Well, the factory engine mounts spacing for the V8s is 13.75", but that's obviously not applicable to you given the big block you've got in there.

So how about setting up a reference point, say a parallel beam to the floor (assuming floor is straight) and take a few measurements from that beam down to the matching engine points.

Yeah, visually it seems off, but remember, these rides have the engine located off to a side a bit already, so that could be just fooling around with your perception.

EDIT
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Oops...@Duke5A has got the answer you are looking for...

 

[TheSkunk]

These are Schumacher sb to big block conversion mounts with instructions followed to the letter.

I just didn’t know how much offset was normal. I don’t remember the 318 sitting off as much but it could be in my head. because bellhousing seems to fit the tunnel fine and I wasn’t fighting anything lining up the transmission mount. Idk I’m gonna sleep on it and see if I can reassure it’s square in the morning.

 

[80mirada]

I think the engine offset is messing with you perception. The engine offset becomes more visually pronounced with the big block.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

It's a 45 year old car. Nothing is square. If my old Town Cars could get enough warp in the front frame to throw off the ability to do an alignment, then there's no way a unibody car isn't warped.

So combine that with the offset and there ya go. My theory at least

 

[Duke5A]

These are Schumacher sb to big block conversion mounts with instructions followed to the letter.

I just didn’t know how much offset was normal. I don’t remember the 318 sitting off as much but it could be in my head. because bellhousing seems to fit the tunnel fine and I wasn’t fighting anything lining up the transmission mount. Idk I’m gonna sleep on it and see if I can reassure it’s square in the morning.

Now that I'm looking at it on a computer it doesn't look cockeyed at all. If you did what I did that would be the result. Put a transmission on it and it should go right in with the factory mounting. You'll know for sure then.

 

[Camtron]

That’s in there man. Having most everything pulled out of the bay makes it look wonky. But you’re solid .

 

[Aspen500]

The engine in my Aspen always looks off kilter too, but it's level side to side, fan is dead center in the shroud, etc. Like the others said, it's just an optical illusion. Part of might be also, your eyes see the top of the cowl in the background that slopes to the sides, and the highest part is right behind the left valve cover.