One area I’m not knowledgeable about, but is the number just below the part number, the vender/supplier number? If that is correct vender code, then it appears both were made by same supplier.
If anyone might have one of the fitting blocks that is the rear of the motor type, id really like to buy it.
I think at one time I fabbed a lil fitting block but im not sure I will find it and although its hard to see id rather have a factory part.
I have a couple – but to be honest, it is in a garage that is stuffed/packed and will take me at least a couple of months to get access to them. For a while, I had a sizeable collection of them – for they are a commonly damaged item after engine install. If you unscrew one and it comes out tilted, then it has been damaged/cracked where the threads meet the body and it will leak a copious (large/excessive) amount of oil, out.
I highly recommend to anyone removing/installing a V8 engine on any Mopar equipped with oil gauge and light, to remove that adaptor FIRST and install it LAST. It takes ZERO pressure to crack those adaptors and they are getting hard to find. I would say if you are removing (or installing) the engine with transmission out in any car/truck in which you are tilting the engine, then you have a 99.99% chance of cracking that adaptor. Once cracked, there is nothing you can do, its toast.
To recap, if you have a fitting like this, please remove it first (and stall it last) or you WILL RUIN it!
I have seen both styles before and didn’t put two and two together, that one is with small block vacuum advance and other is without. Big blocks (without oil cooler) use the “without vacuum advance” version.
A person can fabricate an adaptor if you have access to brass fittings and have more patience than I have.
If a person is going to add an add-on gauge (mechanical or electrical) and you also plan on keeping the oil pressure light operational, then you might want to also find an oil fitting like the one (below).
(L to R) 318 without vacuum advance (ie: computer controlled), 318/360 w/vacuum advance & /6.
From my '79 parts manual.
I have seen these fittings made of steel and from aluminum (both can be broken by engine install, but otherwise are hard to damage.
All three ends use SAE pipe thread - so use of Teflon tape is recommended.
Note: anytime you use Teflon tape (for any usage), make sure the edge of tape starts on the threads and don't leave some below the threads, where part of it can get into the sensor hole or could break off and circulate inside of engine.
BudW