If it was actually r134, ok...but I will bet it said 134 compatible...unless they have changed the kits in the last few years. It will work, but I know my shop will test what is in the system ( even an empty system has enough residual product for the tester to read) and if it fails, you will need an evac ( we have a special machine set up just to recover non 134/12 system) and flush...then the diag procedures can commence. The home kits seem cheap to start with, but can become very expensive in the long run
And to properly convert for r12 to 134, the compressor should be removed, drain the oil in to a measuring cup, flush the compressor and the rest of the system and add the proper amount of the proper oil, but I have know shops to just add the conversion fittings and charge. It will work for awhile, but then the expensive repairs start to happen a few years later
I lied...the redtek stuff is r12a, r134 compatable, not r22 the early kits used..either way not what a shop wants through its machines and into the very expensive r134 bottle on our machines...still not a good idea.
A cycling compressor depends on the system....a sanden compressor wont cycle at all..it has variable vanes to control the pressure. A regular compressor has to cycle to control pressure....cycling too much is an indication of overcharge, and not enough is an indication of undercharge...about 2 time a minute at idle will be about right...unless there is an evap temp sensor which could be shutting down the system as well...it all depends on the type of system the engineers chose to go with