I don’t remember ever seeing a York style A/C compressor on a Small Block F-body, before. /6, yes, but not on a V-8.
My no-A/C ’77 wagon also has the small radiator (18 inch).
My goal for this car is big block with A/C and a 5 or 6-speed manual transmission. Sense the firewall will need to be changed/modified, as well as the transmission tunnel, I might as well change the core support to correct pieces and get it all done to a point that I’m happy with it, and get those area’s re-painted.
Also, I have top of fender rust – so finding a pair of recall fenders are also on my list of things to do/get painted.
I’m not an expert of thermo-properties of metal, but I think copper is the best transmitter of heat of most metals, with aluminum just below. Brass is down a few tiers on the list. Plastic – I have no idea where it ranges. Now with that said, copper is best – but copper is too expensive and is too soft for an automotive cooling system (which is why they use brass for radiators). Next down on list is aluminum and there is no argument that aluminum is much better than brass.
Now with that said, I have been working on Mopar vehicles for a long time. My preferred look for a radiator is the squared off shape of the brass radiator (or an aluminum radiator that can sport the same look (after being painted black). Today’s plastic/aluminum radiators do not have “the” look – but will function fine in most applications.
Personally, I would rather get a brass radiator fixed that go with plastic – ONLY because of its looks. Another reason is because there is no straight across fitting plastic radiator for a big block FMJ body (insert evil grin here).
A little-known fact with Chrysler radiators. From early ‘60s until early ‘80’s (maybe earlier and/or later), there is a stamped number in the top of the radiator. This radiator ID number is much like a carburetor ID number. 95% of the numbers change every year.
If you happen to run across an unidentified radiator, much like this eBay one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60s-70s-Dodge-Chrysler-Radiator-3781-771-18398/183250264907?epid=5020017284&hash=item2aaa91234b%3Ag%3AH8gAAOSwPHxbDwtu%3Asc%3AFedExHomeDelivery%2173127%21US%21-1&LH_ItemCondition=4 you can find out what it fits with a bit of research. Note: I just picked the first one found on eBay. It worked well for my example.
In this case, the number is 3781771. According to my ’75 parts book, it fits:
1975 C-body 400/440 w/max cooling. It will be 28 inch wide core and will either have 3-core or a 4-cores (I think 4-cores, but won't gamble more than a quarter on the bet).
This radiator would be an excellent one for a big block conversion (if one is looking for one). Sense it is 28” wide, I will need to use a set of FMJ straps and drill new bolt holes 1” closer (for all 4 bolts) and find a way to either modify existing shroud (or go electric).
Also, that ID number is one some people use for restorations (if you want it to be correct, that is). Our FMJ’s will not (or doubtful) be as expensive, as say a ’70 Road Runner. Some of those people go crazy trying to find the exact radiator for some of those restores – even though another radiator is exactly the same (width, thickness, core count, neck positions, etc.) but only the ID number is different.
Personally, I don’t care about the numbers – just as long as it fits and works – but it does make a great means to identify them. The top tanks do solder on/off, so a person can change tanks easily (with the right tools).
If you have some old radiators that needs to be ID’ed, let me know. In XfbodyX’s case, I can find out what radiator is correct for his car, if he wanted to know.
BudW