rear leaf spring rebuild, possible issues ?

Volare4life

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hey guys I just rebuilt my leaf springs using a F/M/J main leaf and a HD Dakota spring pack ( minus main leaf of course) my question is will i have any issues running the leafs as they sit since the arch is different, and there is a noticeable gap in the leaves, I remember reading that Bill55AZ, said it was such a pain making brackets and what not to fit full dakota springs under a F/M/J, that he would have just used the spring pack next time, thats where i got the idea for mine.

front segment
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middle with b body lower shock plate
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rear segment
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-Mike

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slant6billy

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I had leaf separation on trucks but not cars and leaf mis-alignment on trucks too. Now the big difference was on the trucks I saw it, the axle was below the leaf spring. You have axle over spring. . As the spring loads and unloads you get each slatted spring sliding as it flattens and then curves. You need to track the movement. white shaker inking pen is what you need. With the car in the air and shocks fully extended, note each slat position by marking it's reference on the longer slat above. Now, do the same loaded. To do that- jackstands all the way up at the frame rails by the front of the leaf spring perch and a floor jack to push the rear up under the car. You may need to reference the car on the ground to see where the weight puts the wheel. Once you get where the car is going to sit loaded, mark your slat locations. After, check how much movement between your marks. You need to see front slat movement and back slat movement. If you get a large amount of movement more than 2 inches on your marks, I recommend getting the rectangular clamps that hold the spring pack together - 2 slats per clamp. It may still have a ride with squeaks of metal noise, but nothing more than that. Leaf spring movement is normal and folks run with worn springs and spring helper stuff all the time. It is safe as long as the u bolts are new and torqued right. If you car is sitting higher than stock, it won't handle as good as you will get more flexing. Something I live with.If you can get an AHB rear swaybar and shock plate, you will get back some stability. Take a few test runs and put a passenger in the back seat to enjoy the ride and note and sway.
 

BHA43

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What is spacing the springs apart @ the u bolts? Use something like plastic milk bottle cut into strips.you may need to make some clamps out of 1/4" plate & 3/8 bolts.
 

Volare4life

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those are the stock dakota shims right around .100 thick each, except for the last one between the .610 helper and last leaf, its near .06 thick, I only used them, because they are pretty close on length front to back, but I am wondering now if i would be safe to go ahead and clamp them down using my 1/4" thick by 4" wide by 1" clamps for the leaf packs to make the front end more rigid. rear shackles aren't pictured but she is riding high with the HD springs...... I like the stiffness of the rear, but i may end up pulling out a leaf, and maybe the overload aswell

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Volare4life

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not worried about the noise, the leafs have thick "anti-squeak" bumpers at each end, besides squeaks and rattles give character lol
 

BHA43

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From that pic I think you could loose a couple springs!
 

Volare4life

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Yea I planned on starting with the overload, and slowly removing them to see what the ride height ends up, might not look so bad with a fatter tire and smaller rim, or i could leave it in case i need to tow a small yacht lol, and i would never put anything bigger than 20's on a car for "looks only", 17/18 for performance
 

Mr C

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Leave it alone...it'll sag soon enough!
 

Volare4life

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btw those are 17x9 2000-2004 mustang gt wheels with 255/45R17, she looks better lower, I wonder what the tow capacity is since the door sticker on the 2WD dakota said "GAWR REAR 3166 LB"
 

slant6billy

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I am a real Nazi about wheels. Modern wheels are really tough to put on 35 year old cars. The fender and 1/4 panel don't have the correct radius to allow the lines of the car to be accented by the wheels. A good example is the early 70's E bodies had different radius for 450 steelies and 14 inchers. I shake my head when goofie bastards lift a car or make a donk. As long as it is just being done to chevys, then who cares. I've seen mid 70's B bodies with 26 inch garbage bling wheels. The mustang rim ain't a bad wheel, but jam some big meat 17 inch Hoosier on the back. I dig the bullet wheels when they are much wider and offset deep on the back. As for the spring setting that way, you are going to get sway for sure unless you get an anti sway bar. You have that as high as my 79 Volare and she walks left to right, but I expect that. Yours won't walk as much as mine, since your shackle is normal length ( mine are extended).
 

Volare4life

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she does have a rear sway bar from a '79 2dr cordoba, I plan on switching to 15x10 aero race wheels on all 4 corners and either sticky Goodyear's or hoosiers on all 4 corners, just need to see about getting that ass down right now, this is what she looked like with the 35yr old springs

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slant6billy

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Actually, now I see the full on stance, it is not all that bad. You might be able to come up with the front end an inch or not. You throw 15 by 10s and it will look fine. If you go too low tires will go into the 1/4 and rub.
 
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