Slant Six to 318 Swap

[Rifleshooter]

I have a 1980 Volare Duster and recently decided I want to do a slant six to 318 swap. It is currently a 225 slant with a 2bbl carb and an A230 3 speed manual trans on the floor with a 7.25 rear and a 2.76 gear. I would like to know what all will and will not be needed in order to do so.

 

[BudW]

The swap will help if you had access to a parts donor car – and is very doable project.

If keeping it - the A230 3-speed will work fine.
The A230 3-speed is actually standard equipment for all passenger cars at the time – and it will take any punishment a 440 can give it (I have seen quite a few A230’s in B and C-bodies).

7¼” differential will work fine with a stock (or mild) small block. If planning something stronger than a mild small block – then you will need to look for something stronger.

In the engine compartment – the K-frame is different between /6 and small block. If planning on rebuilding your front suspension – then finding a V8 K-frame might be a good option.
Otherwise Schumacher makes a mount kit to use with existing /6 K-frame - http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/73UP.html

Does your car have factory A/C? If so, then no worries.
If not, you might want to look for the larger 26’ radiator and core support brackets.
My no A/C 318 has the small 18” radiator and it does overheat at times (I do have plans on replacing the core support brackets soon, in my case).

Depending on the year of car, the radiator necks can be in different locations between /6 and small blocks.

The big thing is finding a small block bell housing (if keeping the standard transmission) and finding all of the pulleys and brackets (which would be best to come from a donor car) - both of which is not too hard to do.

The engine wiring harness is slightly different, mainly because of the distributor location – easy to modify.

One last thing, if keeping the standard (or going with an a833 4-speed) – you will need to make sure the crankshaft is drilled for standard.
BudW

 

[Rifleshooter]

I do plan on keeping the a230 for at least the time being. I don't plan on getting a v8 k frame, and I kinda figured I'd need a bigger radiator but didn't know what size. Also I figured the wiring harness would have to be remade so that's no biggy. I also plan on keeping the 7 1/4 rear for at least a little while. You mentioned something about the crankshaft being drilled for standard, what do you mean by that?

 

[BudW]

Chrysler drilled the back side of crankshafts for a pilot bushing – which the manual transmission input shaft slides into/rides on.

Back in the ‘60’s, most all crankshafts were drilled – but only manual transmission cars, had bushings installed.

Crank with pilot bushing.

Bronze pilot bushing.

In the ‘70’s, only manual transmission cars, had the hole drilled. Automatic cars looked like this:

Some random picture I swiped from internet. Not sure what this is from - but example still applies.

In the ‘90’s, Chrysler stopped using the bushing and started to use a bearing, instead. The bearing is the better way to go – but unless the crankshaft is drilled – there is nowhere for the input shaft to go.

If you are going to install any Chrysler engine into a car that has a manual transmission (car or truck) – you always need to check if crankshaft was drilled.

If so, great. The next step is to see if a bushing was installed.
It a bushing was installed – then just use it.
Do not use both a bushing and a bearing. If no bushing was installed – then use a pilot bearing.

If no hole was drilled then you have a couple of choices:
One is to remove crankshaft and send to machine shop to get the hole drilled. At that point you can install either the bushing or bearing.

The second option is to cut off about an inch or so off of the transmission input shaft – and use the crankshaft hub bearing.
The later method is faster and cheaper – but I don’t want to encourage anyone to cut the input shaft, for a number of reasons.

My guess, I would say about 1 of every 10 engines made in late ’70’s, had crankshaft hole drilled.
In the ‘80’s, I would guess that number dropped to maybe 1 of every 20 engines made. Note: I have no numbers to back this up with – only my observation.
Almost all High Performance engines were drilled.
BudW

 

[Rifleshooter]

Ok I understand now thank you. So aside from the bear minimum of the engine itself, a radiator, bell housing , drilled crankshaft, and the engine mounts, the rest of it is pretty much the same for slants vs 318s?

 

[BudW]

Engine pulleys and brackets (front of engine), Throttle cable(*) and Radiator is a maybe.
Wiring harness modification will not be too difficult to fix.

Depending on what year or what vehicle the donor engine came out of, might be some other items needed (oil pan, for example).

Let me ask you this. What are your short term goal(s) and long term goal(s) with the car?

What/which engine are you thinking about using? (Out of what?)

Do you currently have A/C and/or P/S?


(*), FMJ’s used 4 different throttle cables: 1-bbl /6, 2-bbl /6, 2-bbl V8’s and another for 4-bbl’s.


Note:
The A230 is a solid transmission – that didn’t get any respect. That said, the gear ratios are not preferred for performance use.

An A833 (without overdrive) is a good place to go if looking for performance). The A833 with overdrive is roughly an A230 with extra gear above 3rd gear that happens to be overdrive.

An A833 with overdrive is very easy to install if you currently have a working A230 – providing you also have a shifter transmission tunnel and a shifter.

Also, I highly prefer manual transmissions, over automatics.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Even better: if you can take a couple of pictures of your existing engine compartment – I can see if there anything else I may have forgotten.

Then post them here. If need help posting, let me know.

 

[Rifleshooter]

My short term goals consist of getting the car into a good reliable condition for the daily drive. Long term consists of making it fun while keeping it a daily. I do not have AC but do have PS and no power brakes. I plan on changing that in the future as well. As far as the trans is concerned I have already done my homework on the transfer of the a230 into an A833od trans but that will also be part of my long term goal.

 

[BudW]

There is a member here “F body Deconstructor Jim” https://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/members/f-body-deconstructor-jim.248/ who “should” have the 26” core support radiator plates for sale.

You "could" take a saw and cut the hole wider then drill new holes for the 26” radiator - but I don't think it is the proper way to do it.
I have plans on replacing the two plates – so it will look original. The 18” radiator, currently in my 318 wagon, is just not cutting it.
The ’26 radiator in my 5th Ave (318) hasn’t given me any issues, even with A/C on sitting in traffic.

Also, I have plans on installing A/C into my wagon, so I will be welding onto my firewall at same time – probably while engine is out.


Been wanting to ask Jim how much of a job it is to replace those core support plates (removing 18” and installing 26” radiator plates) – so maybe he will read this and reply.
BudW

 

[Rifleshooter]

I kind of hope he does just for simplisity's sake. Also I haven't bought anything for the swap just yet on account that I lack 2 of the 3 main things you need to do just about anything major to a car. A place to do it, the time to do it, and the money to do it. I lack the time and place right now.

 

[DCAspen]

Bud,Get a 22" radiator It will bolt right in.

 

[Rifleshooter]

Bud,Get a 22" radiator It will bolt right in.

What's the difference between the 22 and the 26 when it comes to performance for a 318

 

[BudW]

Bud,Get a 22" radiator It will bolt right in.

Smiles, I have 3 good 26” FMJ’s, a truck 28” and C-body 28” radiators in my garage.

I also have a spare set of FMJ 26” radiator brackets and eyeballing a way to make the 28” 4-core radiator fit. My daily driven big block might be happier that way (with electric cooling fans).

What's the difference between the 22 and the 26 when it comes to performance for a 318

By far most FMJ’s came with 26” radiators – so replacements are a lot more plentiful than 18’ are.
More 18”, than 22” ones, as well.

I don’t hear of people with 26” radiators and small blocks, having any cooling system problems (except for “other” things like water pumps, etc.).
BudW

 

[Rifleshooter]

Ok just to get an idea, would you be willing to sell me a 26 and the brackets for it when the time comes? If so how much would you want for them

 

[BudW]

The price of radiators have gone up sense last time I looked.

I do not remember the brand name but the part number for above part is CU500 (which got stuck in my brain). This an aftermarket aluminum that does fit an FMJ. There are still a number of companies making new radiators for our cars – but, as far as I can tell, they are all aluminum now.

Aluminum is reported to be more thermo-efficient than brass is – so even though it looks different it might even work better in some conditions.


’70 and up Small blocks (until the Magnum engine appeared) will all have the lower neck on passenger side.
All FMJ body and most all other Chrysler products with small blocks, the upper neck is on driver’s side (’70 and up). Some early cars and pickups without A/C the Upper neck is on passenger side – which is not a problem if not using A/C (just get the upper hose for that particular model).

Any ’76-89 FMJ-body V8 radiator that is 26” wide will work (providing the body plates have been switched out or existing plates have been cut out and new holes drilled).

Any year Dodge 26” brass radiator “can” fit – but bolt holes will not be in correct location and may require a different fan shroud (IE: get the fan shroud at same time as radiator – which you may need anyway).

After looking at my inventory, I discovered I made an incorrect statement, earlier.
I only have 2 FMJ radiators (both are 1-core). One that came out of my ’86 5th Ave (that has a leak in core) and one I purchased from my local Pull-a-Part a couple of years ago (as a spare).

I also have a ’69 C-body 3-core and one out of a 77 Van 3-core (both are assumed to be good – but not sure).
Also have 2 bent and cut-on radiator side straps out of an ’84 Gran Fury police, that previous owner had used a torch to remove the radiator with – instead of a wrench. One strap is cut in two. I was thinking about using one strap and making another strap to adapt one of my 3-core radiators for big block usage (on my very long list “to do’s”.

I checked my local Pull-a-Part and they do not have any FMJ’s in stock. Actually, they don’t have much of anything older than 2000, in stock.

I would be willing to sell my leaking radiator that came originally from my ’86 8th Ave – that should be easily fixed by any radiator shop – but shipping from OKC to (wherever you are at) might be a deal breaker.

This picture shows the core support plates (item number 5) which are different from 26” and 22/18” radiators.

The plates are spot welded in – and not sure how involved of a job they are to replace.
BudW