Bud - would you send a bottle my way. This would be a difficult jbweld to fix. I'm going to try to fix it but I'm not holding my breath.
So lets begin the day's saga....
Here are the tree limbs and ash tree volunteers coming up that I cut and hauled up the road to the goat pen cause I don't need anymore biomass fuel laying around on the property.
The engine bay before I started ... notice those two fine looking, brand new a/c ports!
And notice the two yellow arrows?
Those two yellow arrows ... are showing you a 1/4 inch vacuum line from the washer bottle to the left. The termination should be on a connector located on the underside of the hood. So the water can get out of the bottle, through the line and onto the window.
Instead, my washer bottle line is connected to a port on that firewall... What the heck?
Good thing I have not filled the bottle with liquid or I would have been dumping water into that port.
Here is where the line should have been:
The white connector about in the middle of the picture, just at the bottom of the hood.
Another view of the engine compartment:
I removed the washer bottle and found this lovely mess.
Whats frustrating is last week I already swept this filth off. This happened last night. Some nasty mouse got back in there and ate an evening snack of stale acorns...
I'm going back to moth balls in a plastic bottle and see if I can keep them out. Just have to remember to remove the bottle before I drive too far.
This sad situation is a rusted bolt with a rusted nut on the back side of the coolant overflow tank. Yes, I had to bust it to get it out. There was no room to cut the nut off since it was blocked by the front metal behind the header panel.
--- Post updated ---
As we continue to the vapor canister:
This is the black round coffee can shaped under the coolant overflow tank. What? You don't recognize it because I cleaned the black filth and crap behind it.. Yes, that is actually silver paint. I do not know what was living behind the canister and under the coolant bottle but they had one fine looking nest in there.
Not anymore!
Notice the fine looking set of cracks on the line to the left. You could only see them if you removed the canister and looked on the underside.
This was the only hose on the canister that I kept. Both the the ends were different sizes and it had very attractive red markings on one side.. Looked like a specialty hose.
I did replace one other vacuum hose that went from the bottom, front of the carb up and around to the driver side to a rusted port .... the line and the rusted port are at the yellow arrows in this picture:
So here is the finished 1/3 of the engine compartment:
And yes I removed rust and spot painted the metal.
--- Post updated ---
Which leads me to my next few questions..
1. How do you get the small lines at the back of the carb lose from the t-connector? I didn't want to break the connector but jeeze they don't want to come loose.
2. Do I really use just plain vacuum tubing for the engine hose replacements that are 1/4 inch-- like the tubing in the package I was sold that says 'for windshield washer'?
3. I'm looking at page 7-7 of the service manual and there is no indication how to remove belts; just plenty of information on how to tension them properly. The dually has a tensioner pulley to move so you can take off the serpentine. So for this novice lady, am I supposed to release and move the alternator bracket so I can remove my a/c compressor? (remember I'm backflushing and swapping oil to convert the cooling system over to r134a).
4. Should I replace the hose from the canister in the above pictures, the one with the pretty red spots on it? It looked to be in good shape, but 'you should change out your hoses' has been commanded and I'll need a part number if that one is coming out.
5.There is oil residue in two places: 1) around the opening where you put oil in the crankcase(?) and 2) dripping from the vacuum pump on the back rear firewall (next to the starter relay?). I assume the oil on the crankcase is from the previous person adding oil without a funnel. There is also mice pills and flaking black paint in that area and just above there under the edge of the carb. How do I clean that?
--- Post updated ---
Took the fifth out for a 50 mile trip. Much improved!
There was no stalling at stop signs or rolling through yields. Only once did it die, when I was backing into a parking space at the shopping center.
Only took 2 or 3 pumps of the gas pedal to start right up this morning (instead of 6 to 9).
All this with only 1/3 of the lines reviewed. Hooray!
Next week I convert the a/c and then back to this thread as I complete the hose changes.
