all you need is the 8286S and make,model,engine and year.
Your problem may just be the choke pull-off, and/or the choke actuator element. On the side opposite the cable is a little mechanical device that closes the choke blade when you first touch the gaspedal. The colder it is outside, the harder it slams the valve shut. And the colder it is outside, the more pedal-pumps you hit it with. Now the engine is primed and ready to run.
On that same side of the carb is a little vacuum device also attached with linkage to the choke blade. As soon as the engine fires up,the vacuum comes up, and the device opens the choke blade. The amount of opening is almost critical.There is a spec for it.When the blade is in the right position, the engine will see a rich mixture, which is what the engine needs to continue running. As the engine warms up, the other mechanical device,the choke actuator, gradually retracts and the blade is supposed to eventually hang vertical.
Several things can conspire to make the timing of these events to get out of whack, and then you have issues with staying running, and drive-away.
If the vacuum break is too large, usually the engine will stall shortly after firing up. But with another shot of gas it will start up usually just fine. This cycle could go on several times.
If the vacuum break is too small, usually the engine will run very rough and stall almost immediately. And a restart will be very difficult on account of the engine is flooded.
To unflood the engine the gas pedal must be floored to open the throttle butterfly all the way,(so, the cable must be correctly adjusted and nothing stuck under the pedal like a winter floormat!), and held there while cranking and kept there as the engine struggles to life. As the engine cleans out, the revs will rise, and then you can take your foot off the pedal, before she blows up. There is a little arm on the throttle shaft that is supposed to open the choke blade about a quarter of an inch,against the power of the choke actuator. Yeah, it is adjustable.
Next; the choke actuator is supposed to be automatically retracted as the engine warms up. There are two ways it does this. It sits in a little cup that is warmed by the exhaust gasses. The heat there causes the mechanism to retract. That mechanism may also be electrically assisted to come off even earlier.
And Finally, the underneath of the carb is supposed to be heated by exhaust. Sometimes after many miles this does not happen anymore. The heat there is supposed to warm the carb and make early drive-away possible.This heat passage has a control valve that forces the exhaust to pass under the carb when the engine is cold. As the valve and engine warm up, the exhaust flow may be reduced.
And as a wild card, the fuel level is also almost critical. All the carbs circuits are designed to work best at a specific fuel level, and that includes the choke
Lazy timing, or a faulty distributor can compound any starting issue.
So as you can see your issue falls right into these areas. A new carb kit may not change anything. But the kit comes with an instruction sheet, that will help you make all these adjustments.
But above all, make sure your devices are working, namely; the choke pull-off,the choke actuator,the vacuum advance, and the mechanical advancer.
Now.......Go get 'em!