360 Oil Filters ?

Infiniti Dave

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I recently got the 360 off my engine stand and installed in my 79 Aspen RT. The instructions supplied with the new headers say to remove the oil filter for installation clearance. Seemed simple enough until tried to install one. The Mopar Oil Filter at 3 1/2 " diameter won't fit between the header pipes. Anyone have a listing and part number for a smaller diameter one that will fit?
 
Do you have the 90degree filter adapter or are you coming perpendicular to the block?
 
The filter boss is still OE and perpendicular to the block. Truth be known though the filter won't clear the header tubes to get anywhere near it. If it would there'd be plenty of room to attach it.
 
The filter boss is still OE and perpendicular to the block. Truth be known though the filter won't clear the header tubes to get anywhere near it. If it would there'd be plenty of room to attach it.
You need a 90 degree adapter and the filter will go on no problem.

IMG_2403.jpeg
 
First off thankyou to everyone for your responses and advice. One of the first posts mentioned a Fram #PH3600. I'm not a big fan of Fram, but having Wal-Mart close by it seemed like a safe gamble for $4.00. Fit fine and now I have a good place to start. I also liked the later post about a remote filter kit and plan to look into it. Again, thankyou to each of you ! By the way,this filter will be changed soon !!
 
Mopar made a shorter filter than the standard 3549957 shorty but I don`t remember the part number on it. I think it was for marine applications IIRC
 
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The remote filter is the way to go long term. So much easier for oil changes. No mess, easy to get to, and you can mount it somewhere away from the heat of the header and so that you can run a larger filter. I moved mine up front to the rad support. Braided steel lines and AN fittings and it's leak free and one of the best mods I've every done!
 
All WIX filters:

51335 2.483" by 3.660", 3/4-16 thread, by-pass valve 8-11 psi, drain-back valve, 280 psi burst pressure, 7-9 GPM Flow Rate, 21 micron

51085 3.836" by 3.660", 3/4-16 thread, by-pass valve 8-11 psi, drain-back valve, 340 psi burst pressure, 7-9 GPM Flow Rate, 21 micron

51085XP 3.836" by 3.660", 3/4-16 thread, by-pass valve 8-11 psi, drain-back valve, 340 psi burst pressure, 7-9 GPM Flow Rate, 21 micron

51068 4.338" by 3.660", 3/4-16 thread, by-pass valve 8-11 psi, drain-back valve, 275 psi burst pressure, 7-9 GPM Flow Rate, 21 micron

I'm assuming you are talking about the filter being too long as opposed to too wide, yeah?

FYI - I ran into this problem with my 1-7/8" tube TTIs...running 51085 and it barely fits...so much so in fact that I've already picked up remote setup and just need to install the darn thing!
 
I believe the 3.66" number refers to the filter diameter, same as the Mopar filter. That's where the problem is getting it in. Need smaller diameter, length is less critical. Everything else seems fine. Thankyou !!!
 
Glad to hear that. I personally don`t like the 90 degree adapters and many times they tend to leak.
 
Which brand of headers are you using? It's a really tight fit with my TTI's.

20201213_115359.jpg
 
with those hard lines, 90 degree adapter would have never worked to begin with.
 
with those hard lines, 90 degree adapter would have never worked to begin with.
Well, you could clock it upwards, meaning the filter actually drops-down onto the adapter...I think some of the factory thinking went along those lines seeing as there is a U-shaped cutout in the framerail on my coupe (which I have always seen in all the M-bodies I have owned) that would allow you to R&R the filter from the TOP!

I tried this setup when my last build was still on the engine stand. Seemed very doable the BIG problem though, for those of us running headers, is that removing the oil filter would caus all the oil to drain out right onto your header pipes...yikes...messy, ugly, smokey and probably damaging the finish in some way.
 
LSM360's remote filter idea looks to be the best choice in this situation. I usually don't like messing with the factory setup but looks like huge hassle with headers in the way and I wouldn't want the filter so close to them either.

I have the 90 degree adapter on mine, I think it was there originally because of the pre cats because I had to switch it over to my 360 when it went in.
 
The amount of pain and mess some of you guys are willing to put up with bewilders me. :-)
 
Well, you could clock it upwards, meaning the filter actually drops-down onto the adapter...I think some of the factory thinking went along those lines seeing as there is a U-shaped cutout in the framerail on my coupe (which I have always seen in all the M-bodies I have owned) that would allow you to R&R the filter from the TOP!

I tried this setup when my last build was still on the engine stand. Seemed very doable the BIG problem though, for those of us running headers, is that removing the oil filter would caus all the oil to drain out right onto your header pipes...yikes...messy, ugly, smokey and probably damaging the finish in some way.
Yes, I am aware of doing oil changes with the adapter; I have headers and the 90 degree adapter was already on my ‘89 M from factory so, getting the filter on was never a problem after installing headers. If the adapter was angled up then it would definitely be slightly harder to get the filter on and off the adapter overall.
Easy enough to do oil changes and clean up afterwards; different strokes for different folks.
 
The amount of pain and mess some of you guys are willing to put up with bewilders me. :)
I just like laying under my car; way easier at this age to lay down under it than bend over and reach down into the engine compartment, lmfao
 
I just like laying under my car; way easier at this age to lay down under it than bend over and reach down into the engine compartment, lmfao

Getting under the car isn't he issue, it's getting back up!

My car has it located behind the bumper on the driver's side. Being a big block necessitated it here.

20211003_181845.jpg


Hard to see in this photo, but Dad's is in the engine bay on the passenger side. Probably wouldn't work here if you still have a vapor canister. He created a bracket for this and used -8AN line with a couple brackets to keep it hugging the inner fender. It's a real clean setup.


IMG_4217.jpg
 
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