'66 was the starting year. You're going to have a hard time finding one and when you do you'll be paying through the nose though. Not like what it was even ten years ago. What's your build and the intended usage? If your 8.25" can't cut it I would seriously think about brand X axles.
Buddy of mine got into it a while back. Drawing up from scratch can be complicated, but what a lot of people do now is 3D scan the part and then make slight modifications. LIDAR cameras (depth sensing) aren't that expensive anymore and the new Pro/Max iPhones have depth cameras built in.
I'm no expert, but that seems to be splitting the difference between a dual plane and a single manifold. If that little mod gains on the top end, it must me losing something on the bottom end. If this is a street motor I wouldn't mod the manifold. A smogger 318 is never going to spin high...
I ran those on all four corner for a couple of years. I feel for you. I've got front Bilstein shocks and Edelbrock IAS rears just sitting on the bench if you want them. Better than the KYB shit. To run the Eddies you'll need to switch to B body shocks plates though.
Cutting a few pieces of 3/16" or 1/4" flat stock seems to be easier than sourcing those. Or just buy the kit from FF.
It's ALL in the shock selection. You don't need to be riding on a rubber biscuit. The rubber ISO setup is just going to introduce more deflection as the axle tries to roll...
Nope, honest question. Never owned an AHB. I know most of the differences, but not all of them.
Any particular reason to justify the trouble over using the non-fleet model shackles considering their ease of availability?
Firm Feel sells rear shackle kits for these cars. I'm using the same one.
B, C, E, F, M & J-Body HD Shackle Kit
As far as ISO goes, if I ever do another F/J/M car it's getting ditched for B body shock plates. I'll never mess with that shit again.