Recent content by Duke5A

'66 to '70 B body axles fit by drilling out the perches to 1 9/16" to accept the larger ISO centering mounts. It's close, but not exact. Your springs will be bowed 1/4" inboard. Many people do this and report no issue. I ran an 8.75" done this way for years. Eventually I did away with the...

It's a matter of opinion, but to me, absolutely not. You can even get good sound with manifolds. A cam with a little chop to it will do more for sound between short and long tube. When I big block swapped my car I had a set of stainless shorties custom made. I'll never go back to long tubes...

Any mild steel header is going to rust. Even expensive TTI pieces that are coated inside and out. If you want it to look as minty as the rest of that motor and drive the car regularly stainless is your only option. There are SS headers available. These are obviously Chinese, but they do fit...

Damn it, why do you have to be so far away. I've got a used set you can have. I'm not willing to go through the hassle of shipping though. My opinion? I ran those style of small block headers for years. You're going to flatten those tubes that run under the steering link. What are your...

Don't use the factory rocker gear and change those springs. 50lbs to 80lbs is a hell of a difference in open pressure and you're going to risk valve float. The factory roller cam only ran to 4500 and this one will probably run to 5500.

It's been ten years now since I did the BB swap. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them look up a 1978 (last year for big blocks) Dodge with a 400. Then browsed the photos until I found a booster with only two studs for the master cylinder.

Are you really looking at axles as far away as PA?

Probably weld it. You have to weld the perch back on anyways.

What is the overall goal of the car? Budget? Driven all year?

I think what people swap in is 8.8 Fords out of a Mustang. If I recall properly, they don't need to be cutdown, but the perches do need to be set. You can get rear disc brakes and limited slip fairly cheap as a result.

Basically what Mike said. Is it all still functioning? And are you doing this as a stepping stone to further upgrades?

This stuff is getting extremely hard to find now. Firm Feel used to sell brand new higher rate torsion bars, but last I looked they were delisted. Even if they have them you're looking at over $1k for the bars. Even their sway bars are expensive. I bought a new 1.25" front bar a few years...

Never found one in my '87. I don't think it was ever apart either before I owned it.

That header tube that runs across five and seven on most small block headers is a serious pain.

I removed mine and capped the line off with no noticeable drawbacks. Ran it that way with a 4bbl for years. Never smelled gas either.