WANTED M Body Front Sway Bar Mounting Bracket

Hello All,

The passenger side front sway bar mounting bracket was rusted more than expected as a result, the threaded rod snapped just below the nut. :-( I have managed to affect a repair of sorts by cutting a thread on the remaining stud, doing the same on a 5/16" bolt and using a threaded sleeve (with LocTite), to join the two halves together.

However, I would prefer to replace the bracket and use my 'repaired one' as a spare. So, if you have one or a pair, let me know what you would want for them.

They are hard to find in good shape. Most get bent or damaged over the years. Once in a while you will see them on ebay.

I'll try looking in my stash, this weekend. I should still have a set of them

If you have not found this yet PM me.

You know, I remember looking at this once and thought this could be replaced with a long bolt, along the lines of what you can do with the rear-sway bar to spring bracket linkage.

If you were to cut off that factory spot-welded stud that attaches to one of the brackets and replace that with a bolt, which would then be nut retained on the opposite side of the bracket, that should give you a resonably stable mounting point.

Heck, if you have access to a MIG welder you could tack it in place a couple of times, or run a slightly longer bead. If no, use thread lock, could (should?) maybe put a locking washer to prevent the nut from backing off?

Then you toss a tube sleeve over the remainder of the bolt and as in the factory install you toss the bushing retaining washer on first, then the bushing, into the frame and same on the other side.

Anyways...never tried this as I had the parts handy, but it was part of this "oh crap, what if some day this thing twists off/brakes?" kind of a pondering moment! lol

Hello M_Body_Coupe,

The original design appears to have the threaded stud staked in place at the factory. The signs are visible on the inside of the bracket. I believe they did this to ensure the bottom side was smooth because that surface is part of the support for the sway bar bushing. A weld would have required dressing which would result in a more expensive part. See the picture I attached in the first post.

I considered drilling out the old stud and welding in a new one (I have a decent MIG welder), but I was concerned the drilling / welding might weaken the original staked in boss. I'm probably being anal about weakening the stud to bracket joint.

If I'm able to get my hands on another one (or two), I'll take my repair (threaded sleeve), apart and experiment with drilling out the remainder of the stud. From there I'll see what options exist to weld in a replacement stud. If it ends up being a viable solution I'll post pictures of the result.

Fresh Air Inspector said:

Hello M_Body_Coupe,

The original design appears to have the threaded stud staked in place at the factory. The signs are visible on the inside of the bracket. I believe they did this to ensure the bottom side was smooth because that surface is part of the support for the sway bar bushing. A weld would have required dressing which would result in a more expensive part. See the picture I attached in the first post.

I considered drilling out the old stud and welding in a new one (I have a decent MIG welder), but I was concerned the drilling / welding might weaken the original staked in boss. I'm probably being anal about weakening the stud to bracket joint.

If I'm able to get my hands on another one (or two), I'll take my repair (threaded sleeve), apart and experiment with drilling out the remainder of the stud. From there I'll see what options exist to weld in a replacement stud. If it ends up being a viable solution I'll post pictures of the result.

Click to expand...

If you drill a hole into the bracket and weld a bolt with the head cut off into it that might be strong enough to hold. Aren't the cop ones pressed and welded in? I can't remember.

Mikes5thAve said:

If you drill a hole into the bracket and weld a bolt with the head cut off into it that might be strong enough to hold. Aren't the cop ones pressed and welded in? I can't remember.

Click to expand...

What I was thinking actually was about taking a deck bolt with the round head and the square locating shoulder (right under the bolt head) and then having first cut off the factory stud machining the matching square retaining into the existing bracket shelf (the upper one obviously).

This would be a very positive retaining mount, again, toss a couple of welds on that thing, clean-up afterwards and the round & oval head would have very little impact on the rubber bushing that is then captured by the shell.

Hello Mikes5thAve,

I don't think the cop ones are welded in - at least I can't find any sign of welding. As mentioned, they are staked in place which could mean they are first pressed in and then staked?

Hello M_Body_Coupe,

I like your idea of a carriage bolt (deck bolt as you call it). I may just try it as an experiment. I don't have any machining capabilities but I do have a very good 1/4" square file. I little elbow grease and I could create the square hole. Having the hole the full length of the boss built into the bracket would allow me to 'fill the gap' with weld.

Need to check with my local fastener supplier to see if they carry Grade 5 as the 'regular' carriage bolts are apparently only Grade 2 (never heard of that level). As you mentioned, the smooth rounded head should have very little affect on the bushing and adds another level of strength to the repair.

Once I have the replacement brackets I'll set aside some time to test your theory.