Searching for parts

Gunnar Schroder

Gunnar Schroder

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Joined
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Location
Norway and Sweden
A quick note regarding my G22:

I have done most of the restoration inside the car and got the parts I need. From Arizona spares I have got a lot of spares and must praise Martin for excellent service, help and parts.
Checking Chinese spares I got hold of over here and compare those with the US ones may be described as Crap.
Now to the tricky bit:
As I have a very good and complete rear axel of 8 1/4" lying in the "Spares Department" I would not mind tracing:

3845128-129 Rear axel plate w/rear spring isolators

They seem to be as rare as Hen's teeth and unobtainable. I have searche scrap yards over here but no luck.

Any suggestions?

Take care everyone and safe driving.

Gunnar
 
Again thanks a million for your wonderful help. I have downloaded all text and will carefully read everything and check it all over. My car is 100% original at the rear end apart from I have cleaned up and have a good rear bumper to fit when time and weather allows.
Sorry to pester you but a wonderful help would be if you may know where I can get the parts needed.
Take care these days as frost and snow has fallen and, as usual, chaos on some roads thanks to big Juggernauts on the road with summertyres instead of the winter ones they should have as from November 1. Some are hard learners and should be fined (and that hurts their purse I can tell you!9

All the very best

Gunnar

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I have just started to go thru the instructions regarding the springs and change the rear axel on my G22. Gosh, I feel like an idiot sometimes as it must be 50 years ago I was under a car with springs like this. I had a BMC 1800 and a Ford Transit at that time, all gone years ago!
Now things have cleared a bit and narrowed my search dealing with a swap. The first picture with white arrows are what I had overseen. It is the spring going thru the bottom and upper spring plate. A bolt secure the springs to the bottom and upper spring plate. Bolts represent minor problems as those are often off the shelves from autoshops and EBay.
I dropped a clanger having overseen that fact.

From that picture I have made another one with different colours on new arrows pointing to the bottom clamp. It is a little unclear to me if that one has to be replaced by another one as on picture three. To me it looks like it is the one as the holes seems to be correct and the centre pieces to replace the bottom Isolator. Is that correct? I presume there must be a replacement to the top Isolator too?

Now to the tricky bit: The top spring plate:

From the parts catalogue I note the 8 1/4" axel has a different part number than the 7 1/4". I have a feeling the bolt holes must be 1" wider spaced on the 8 14". That might affect the angel of the shock absorber? Probably only 1/2" but as they are rubber bushed. Anyway The upper Isolator may be the problem or can this one be omitted? Picture 4 shows the problem and parts needed to be replaced.

Picture 5 I am not sure what this part is needed for. The centre holes indicates (as well as the shape) it could be used on top of the top plate as it may fill out the gap of the upper Isolator? The Ubolts should be wide enough to pass on the outside of them.

Picture 5 shows a new Schock plate but may be it fools me as it has another axel probably needed for either the schock absorber or the swaybar? I doubt it is for the swaybar and not needed as my car has no rear swaybar. Perhaps the schock absorber would fit anyway? On the inside near the centre of the car?

I have got hold of all other parts pointing as marked with green arrows and the red arrow points to the Leaf Spring hangers. I have not checked those but they seems to be my cup of tea as they are in front of the springs.

Hoping things may be sorted out for me as the winter has setteled with snow, icy roads and frost. We do live in a country with that sort of weather but telling drivers to take things easy and use proper winter tyres seems to be throwing water on a Goose! We never learn to we but please omitt me: I am too old in the tooth to be surpriced by the winter!

Thanking you in advance for any help and advice.

Regards Gunnar

Pointing to springs .jpg


Pointing to Bottom Clamp .jpg


Rear parts to be modified and replaced 2.jpg


Pointing to spring plate and upper Isolator .jpg


Rear parts to be modified and replaced 6.jpg


Rear parts to be modified and replaced 3.jpg


Pointing to spring plate and upper Isolator and red arrows I have got .jpg
 
Gunnar Schroder said:
I have just started to go thru the instructions regarding the springs and change the rear axel on my G22. Gosh, I feel like an idiot sometimes as it must be 50 years ago I was under a car with springs like this. I had a BMC 1800 and a Ford Transit at that time, all gone years ago!
Now things have cleared a bit and narrowed my search dealing with a swap. The first picture with white arrows are what I had overseen. It is the spring going thru the bottom and upper spring plate. A bolt secure the springs to the bottom and upper spring plate. Bolts represent minor problems as those are often off the shelves from autoshops and EBay.
I dropped a clanger having overseen that fact.

From that picture I have made another one with different colours on new arrows pointing to the bottom clamp. It is a little unclear to me if that one has to be replaced by another one as on picture three. To me it looks like it is the one as the holes seems to be correct and the centre pieces to replace the bottom Isolator. Is that correct? I presume there must be a replacement to the top Isolator too?

Now to the tricky bit: The top spring plate:

From the parts catalogue I note the 8 1/4" axel has a different part number than the 7 1/4". I have a feeling the bolt holes must be 1" wider spaced on the 8 14". That might affect the angel of the shock absorber? Probably only 1/2" but as they are rubber bushed. Anyway The upper Isolator may be the problem or can this one be omitted? Picture 4 shows the problem and parts needed to be replaced.

Picture 5 I am not sure what this part is needed for. The centre holes indicates (as well as the shape) it could be used on top of the top plate as it may fill out the gap of the upper Isolator? The Ubolts should be wide enough to pass on the outside of them.

Picture 5 shows a new Schock plate but may be it fools me as it has another axel probably needed for either the schock absorber or the swaybar? I doubt it is for the swaybar and not needed as my car has no rear swaybar. Perhaps the schock absorber would fit anyway? On the inside near the centre of the car?

I have got hold of all other parts pointing as marked with green arrows and the red arrow points to the Leaf Spring hangers. I have not checked those but they seems to be my cup of tea as they are in front of the springs.

Hoping things may be sorted out for me as the winter has setteled with snow, icy roads and frost. We do live in a country with that sort of weather but telling drivers to take things easy and use proper winter tyres seems to be throwing water on a Goose! We never learn to we but please omitt me: I am too old in the tooth to be surpriced by the winter!

Thanking you in advance for any help and advice.

Regards Gunnar

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I'm trying to figure out what all you're referring to..

The part with the USCT sticker is the bracket that's welded to the axle that sits on top of everything. Your axle should already have it.
Rear parts to be modified and replaced 2.jpg
Rear parts to be modified and replaced 3.jpg


These parts are all you need. One goes above the springs, the other goes below. With this setup you dont need the isolators. Those 2 small silver square thins look like what you weld on if you have a rear sway bar.
Yes there is is a different top plate because 8 1/4 on those early cars has bigger axle tubes but if you are buying the brackets in these pictures it eliminates those stock parts.

The shock is supposed to go to the part that sticks out, which I'm not quite sure how it would work since our shocks are angled in. I think on mine the stock top plate was kept and only the bottom plate was replaced. This was done years before I bought that car.

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The parts with the black arrow aren't needed if you are replacing them with those new spring brackets.

The green arrow parts are pretty easily obtainable. The spring shackle could be a bit harder but if yours is reusable the bushings are on Rock Auto. The bushings for the end of the springs aren't that hard to get.

Pointing to spring plate and upper Isolator and red arrows I have got .jpg


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Thanks Mike for your advice and things have cleared a bit now. I have contacted the company and a reply came prompt. I have asked them to pick what I need for the job as the only thing I am a bit worried about is the angle of the shock absorber. I have a feeling these has to be replaced with a new pair with eylets. Here is their reply:

Hello Gunnar,

Our Iso delete kit will eliminate the iso wraps of course, moreover the shocks will then be B-body application - not the bayonet style, but the eyelets on both upper and lower mounts (using our B body shock plates - the set illustrated in the picture). We also have an iso delete kit which will use your factory shock plates so you can keep your correct bayonet style shocks (and the stock rear sway bar if you have one), as well as eliminate the iso wraps - either kit cost $425.

We ship inside the US right now. Also, we are probably around 5 weeks lead time for that kit. We are slammed here this winter already.

We appreciate your interest. If you would like the kit with the B body shock plates - $425 plus shipping - we use the most economic shipping within the states and make money on our manufacturing and assemblies; we do not make money on shipping here. Shipping and handling is calculated after we make the parts and package them up to ship that day.

Thank you Gunnar for your time and interest,
Matt Ross
Firm Feel, Inc.
(360) 546-3633
www.firmfeel.com
 
I forgot to tell you that all other parts and bushings have already been bought. Shakles and bushes all shopped from local suppliers over here and from the USA. Arizona Spares, Martin, has supplied genuine Mopar parts so I am confident all should fit perfect. I must admit I am steering clear of China parts as some of them are simply Crap!
 
So @Gunnar Schroder, are you clear on what FirmFeel is suggesting to you?

Like @Mikes5thAve explained, the aftermarket options typically require you to remove the ISO setup and replace that with a B-body style configuration.

The 'ISO-Delete Kit' has the TOP plate (the square with 5 holes) which can have the sway-bar brackets welded on. That setup would give you an equivalent functionality of the factory configuration, but requires you to switch to B-boy style shocks.

The alternative is to buy just the bottom plate (FF's 'Shock Plates' part) and simply bolt those to the bottom of the leaf spring WHILE discarding the U-shaped ISO bracket where the rubber pads capture the leaf-spring pack. This will result in what @Mikes5thAve shows in his photo, and allows you to retain the factory shocks.

The choice, for the most part, depends on what you are looking to do. There are very few performance options for the factory configuration, while the B-body domain opens things up considerably.
 
Thanks for your mail and one thing puzzels me: The upper spring plate where the shocks are fastened may need to be modified to accept the U-bolts as the axel is 1" wider. As from the spares list I have they have different numbers. 7 1/4" axel plate has number 3845 168-9 and the 8 1/4" has 3845 128-9
Of course I can weld and close the old holes and make new ones but had hoped to avoid that. No need to worry about a rear swaybar as my car has not one of those.
 
I think the 7 1/4 plate is too small to Redrill with wider hole spacing. For the cost of those from firm feel you could probably find someone local to make them up. Really they're squares if metal with the edges bent up to make them more rigid.
 
Good morning Mike and thanks for your mail. I feel the same as you about redrill wider hole spacing. To have two made locally could be a good idea but over here there are no craftsmen or workshop dealing with that. The skilled labour force are gone donkeys years ago due to computers and workforce afraid of getting dirty hands. A shame really

If I had a sample to copy I may have been able to find a company in Sweden that could handle them making new as the industry over there are still intact. In Norway it is only computer work and "white collar jobs" left as well as Salmon, hydroelectric power sent to the Continent as well as Oil!
 
An early morning seek made things clear for me. I must admit that I had thought new shocks had to be like this. Mine original are on the outside of the springs while the B-body style shocks are on the inside of the springs. Then it should not be difficult to use the set from Firm Feel Inc. Steering and Suspension for Chrysler Plymouth & Dodge

Finally the penny dropped I hope. I presume you followers and friendly helpers must consider me a "slow learner" and that it all right with me having dealt with motorcyhcles most of my life. They are easier to handle and repair.

Please let me know if I may be mistaken but hope for a quiet Sunday and wonderful week. Icy roads and idiots on the roads keep the Towing and Rescue companies busy earning money

Gunnar

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Fantastic! They look like new more or less. Sandblasting I can do locally. Give me a price for all your trouble and costs and I shall send you money thru Paypal as that is swift and secure.

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