B body axle interchange

I saw this on marketplace


And I'm wondering if its ALL B body axles that can be made to fit or if its just SOME B body axles from certain years and certain models.

Paging @Aspen500 @BudW @Vaanth @Mikes5thAve @XfbodyX

Help me out here guys before I spend more money on random crap, again

'66 to '70 B body axles fit by drilling out the perches to 1 9/16" to accept the larger ISO centering mounts. It's close, but not exact. Your springs will be bowed 1/4" inboard. Many people do this and report no issue. I ran an 8.75" done this way for years. Eventually I did away with the ISO mount and had the perches relocated to correct the minor bow.

AMC Diplomat said:

I saw this on marketplace
View attachment 58451

And I'm wondering if its ALL B body axles that can be made to fit or if its just SOME B body axles from certain years and certain models.

Paging @Aspen500 @BudW @Vaanth @Mikes5thAve @XfbodyX

Help me out here guys before I spend more money on r

Click to expand...

The following table lists the B-body 8-3/4" axle dimensions:


Table Notes:

• (1) Width variance can be drum face thickness.
• (2) Axle shaft length is measured from the splined end to the outside flange end.
• SG = Sure Grip
• Dimensions are in inches.

B-body axles with the 44" perch width are the best candidates for swapping into an F-body with considerations noted in post #2. The F/M/J- body perch width is 44.46". 1962 - 1964 axles require axle shaft replacement to used flanged axle shafts.


Table excerpt from: A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide, Updated Version

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Vaanth said:

The following table lists the B-body 8-3/4" axle dimensions:

Body Line	Years	Housing Width Flange to Flange	Leaf Spring Mount, Center, Perch to Perch	Drum to Drum, or Axle Flange to Flange (1)	Axle Shaft Length (2)	Notes
B-body	1962 - 1963, 1964 Max Wedge	53-1/4	44	58-1/2	30-1/2 with SG 30-7/16 without SG	Tapered axle shafts
B-body	1964, except Max Wedge	55-5/8	44	60-7/8	31-1/2	Tapered axle shafts
B-body	1965 - 1967	54-1/4	44	59-1/2	28-7/8
B-body	1968 - 1970	54-29/32	44	60-1/8	29-3/16
B-body	1971 - 1974	57-47/64	47-3/10	63	30-5/8
B-body Station Wagon	1971 - 1973	59-7/16	46	64-3/8	31-21/64

Table Notes:

• (1) Width variance can be drum face thickness.
• (2) Axle shaft length is measured from the splined end to the outside flange end.
• SG = Sure Grip
• Dimensions are in inches.

B-body axles with the 44" perch width are the best candidates for swapping into an F-body with considerations noted in post #2. The F/M/J- body perch width is 44.46". 1962 - 1964 axles require axle shaft replacement to used flanged axle shafts.


Table excerpt from: A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide, Updated Version

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Click to expand...

Holy crap what a great answer! Thank you!

Not all will fit, overall widith is the other factor but from the charts floating around that one should also be less then an inch wider than typical M body axle so it is the right one to get.

But question is do you really need it? 8 1/4 shouldn't have an issue holding up and 8 3/4 is heavier. On the other hand my philosophy is get stuff when you can cause I know I can't easily find one. Altho price comes in to play with that too.

Mikes5thAve said:

But question is do you really need it?

Click to expand...

What does reason and logic have to do with hoarding mopar parts?

Ha, my philosophy exactly - buy it now, figure out where it goes later!

MyPly76 said:

Ha, my philosophy exactly - buy it now, figure out where it goes later!

Click to expand...

yeah I might need that... someday

Any of the '65-70 B-body axles will fit fine. The '65-67 is the preferred choice, but '68 works fine.

You also get the Shock Plates, which is a big, correction HUGE, plus.
Toss the original ISO-Clamps (and shocks) in favor of those '68 shock plates.
The B-body shock plates will require you to use '66-72 B-body shocks - in which has a whole lot more choices for (over the lack of FMJ choices). Also, the lower stud on FMJ shocks are a pain to work with.
In my opinion, the older shock plates ride so much better than the ISO shock plates.

If you were to get that setup, I would not save the U-bolts.
Get the measurements off of the old ones and purchase new U-bolts.

Parking brake cables are different - so that will need to be changed.
The 10 inch brake setup should be the same.



If you plan on keeping the original ISO-clamp shock plates (with the older B-body differential), you will need to make the centering hole wider on the differential perches to 1-9/16" (not a fun process, but doable).
I would highly recommend replacing the FMJ U-bolts and shocks, while you are there.

BudW

Note: if I was several states closer, I might be interested in getting it.
That said, I already have two '67 B-body 8-3/4" assemblies ( ... and a '66 C-body which i picked up cheap ... ) to go into each of my two cars.

A good thing that one is many many states away.
BudW