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The headlamp dimmer is a separate switch, actuated by a rod. It's attached to the steering column. Slow flashers in one direction COULD be caused by high resistance, either in the wiring, a socket, or even a faulty or incorrect bulb. Screenshot from Parts Geek for dimmer reference.

Sounds like the drag link is installed upside down. Not sure that's possible though. The pitman and idler arm studs wouldn't fit. The taper would be backwards. There's a flat near the pitman arm stud hole that says "REAR", also. It should curve down, and slightly rearward.

OK fine, forget the spring at the trans then. Do whatever you want.

With a cable, you need an external return spring also. My '96 Dakota has a return spring from the factory (cable throttle pressure valve), along with the internal spring.

Posted the Bouchillon kit for a possible suggestion. Only thing I did extra was make my own trans lever spring bracket. The one in the kit will work, but it has the spring going at an angle. I made a bracket to drop it down to where the spring is level. Just me, I'm kind of anal about stuff like...

BPE TorqueFlite Kickdown Cable Kit - Bouchillon Performance Engineering I see the price went up. When I bought mine in 1993, they were like $90. The good old days.........Good part is, every piece in the kit is Made in USA (NOT China).

Don't forget also, with a cable the tran lever needs a spring to pull it forward, since the cable pulls it rearward. P.S. My cable setup came from Bouchillan Performance. It's actually a stock Mopar cable with the pieces needed to retrofit.

They won't crank without pushing the clutch down, or it's not in park. Not sure if all, but the majority of push button start cars won't crank unless the brake pedal is pressed first, even if the fob is in the car. I do remember seeing cars with manual trans take off before they had clutch...

It depends on if the gasket sealing surface is broken, or it's just the bolt boss. If the sealing surface is OK, and the bolt is long enough to still be holding and torqued, it might be alright. Hard to tell from a photo. Looks like most of the oil is coming above that area. Would be a good...

You need some sort of bushing on the shackle pivots.

Yes, it was called an extension lever. Looking at your pic again, the throttle cable and kickdown rod should be on the same stud. Throttle on the inside of the throttle lever, kickdown on the outside. For the cruise cable, you're missing the "lost motion" (think that's what they call it). It...

You could try looking at Summit or the Holley website. Carbs and throttle bodies are made for (what else) GM. Mopar and Ford always require extra pieces.

You need something similar to the black piece in the photo. This isn't the one you need, but you get the idea.

I always thought "smart key" pushbutton start is just fine,,,,,,,until it doesn't work, and it's not just a dead key battery. Usually was not an inexpensive thing to properly diagnose and repair.

You'll probably never get the old you completely back because part of the old you can't come back. However, in time, some of the old you will return. Hope that comes across the way I intended it to. BTW, guess who else needs to go get a new kitchen faucet cartridge? :)

The Explorer is push button start, correct? It's possible to program yourself IF you have 2 functioning fobs (if you want 3 through 8 fobs). If only one works, then it's a lot of f'ing around with a scanner and interface box, through a secure connection to access the Ford database servers where...

I remember it, that rare Plymouth Colt.........

One of my pet peeves is people over torquing lug nuts, which in the case of your truck (assuming it's the '00 2500) is 140-160 ft lbs. It's OK to use an impact IF it's used with the correct value torque stick socket. Those things are as accurate as any torque wrench. Impact with a regular socket...

I can remember way back, like 35 years ago, when there were F's in the scrapyard as far as you could see, and saw various color Tuff Wheels in them. Red, blue, tan are what I recall. Of course black also, lol. If I'd only have known then what I know now. The going rate for a Tuff Wheel was about...

Sometimes you have to use what is available. When the correct part is made of unobtainium, all you can do us get one that's close as possible, and adapt it to work. I've run into that many times over the years.

I've known people that would easily win 1st prize in a dickhead contest, as I'm sure we all have.

Nobody makes fitted trunk carpet for FMJ. You may be able to find a nice used molded carpet for the floor, which is what I did for my Aspen. For the rest, I got door panel board and "trunk style" carpet yardage to make the rest. Might find it other places as well, but I've gotten things like...

I never bought into the "because it's there" reason to climb it. LOL

Either bolt is fine. The regulator grounds through the case. Once there's corrosion/rust on the bolt threads, the ground gets high resistance, and causes charging system faults.

It's not a bad idea to run a ground strap to a VR bolt. Way back "in the day", I remember fixing many Mopar charging system problems at work, by running a VR ground, especially here in WI, what with all the rust and corrosion we get from the flipping, frigging winter salt.