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Dude, that's awesome!

That's probably a 7.25" axle if it's factory. I don't even think anyone makes gears for that axle anymore. They certainly don't make limited slip for them. 8.25" out of a wagon or AHB car is probably your only option for something that bolts in.

Wow that looks clean. Way cleaner than mine under the hood. Got any specific plans in mind for the motor?

You have 300# T-bars in the front end, right? Now, I'm not a chassis expert by any stretch of imagination, but I would be concerned that using this approach is going to yield something that will perform both poorly on the street for handling and lousy at the track for traction. It's the entire...

But you know you want to!

If you want your cake and eat it too then you need to start with double adjustable shocks on all four corners.

My only concern would be price. If a machine shop says all it needs is a sleeve, then I wouldn't worry about it.

Yikes. Any particular reason to run a 340? Class racing? Going to be a lot cheaper to grab a 360 LA or Magnum that doesn't have a hole in the bore vs fixing that 340. Should be able to get a block for $200.

You're going to end up having to strip the car, run it with an extremely low gear ratio, lots of cam, etc, etc. It will not be street friendly. Autocross is an entirely different can of worms from drag. You can build a dual purpose car for sure, but it's going to be a jack-of-all-trades car...

I've got a complete set of 11x2.5" rear drums. Backing plates, drums, cylinders and hardware. Practically new. Pulled it off for a disc brake swap. It's yours if you want it, but shipping would probably be killer.

All F/M/J cars used the same rear axle dimensions: flange to flange is 54.34" and perch center to center 44.46". It should drop right in if it's from an M wagon.

What vehicle was that 8.25" pulled from?

That thing is crying for a 4" crank and custom ground roller cam. Keep the outside of it stock appearing.

$50 Pioneer deck with Blue Tooth and get the pigtail adapter. No CD. This is what I did with mine. Modern electronics sound a lot nicer too.

0.5mm gap between the isolator and the hole in the K? Whatever you do, don't start laser measuring the chassis for squareness. If this has you worried then the tolerances of the rest of the car will give you cold sweats at night. I'm with Coupe on this. Just crank it down and even poly will...

Whose heads are those? I have Eddies on my 512 and simple 12pt header bolts with split washers never back out. I've left more than a few ARP stainless bolts one road before. What did you do for headers? I never found a set that fit and ended up having them made for my car.

So problem exists between grinder and seat?

Dad's is fine after years of operation. I still have to plumb mine. Both kits are Derale. I wouldn't be surprised if cracking issues are caused by people over tightening the fittings in the housing. Come out to the barn for a few hours and we can fab a bracket to put the filter wherever you...

Suuuure Mopar Dan, play it off as an accident. lol.

It's well past the length of travel in the bumper shocks and doesn't sit any lower than the bumper itself. If something pushes that heavy of a bumper back that far the car is fucked either way.

Below is what I did for mine. Mounted it to alloy plate and used the bumper shock bolts to hold it in place. It's on the driver side, but you might be able to do something similar to the passenger. This puts the bottom of the filter even with the bottom of the bumper.

This is Dad's setup. Just a standard relocation kit with a custom bracket to mount it to right above where the vapor canister used to be. Dad even made me a bracket like that, but I never used it because I changed plans and went big block. I've still got the bracket if you want it.

The V6/V8 starters on all Dodge trucks and vans will work. I don't know if the Jeep starters will swap as BrotherGood stated they're on the passenger side. It's possible the starters are in fact the same and just mount upside down.

And that is with them installing it.