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It wasn't meant as an insult. Guess everything makes you butt hurt, and this isn't the first time with you so,,,,,well, I'll just stop there. I'm outta here.

Well,,,,in 1973, I finished 3rd grade in May, and started 4th grade that September. So you are wrong, camel toe breath.

Back when I was a kid, cell phones weren't even a concept in some inventors head yet. lol

Sounds like you are seeing the parking brake cables. Without photos, so going by your description.The rear hose goes from the brake line vertically to the rear axle, and is attached to the axle tube with a hollow bolt, which is also the axle vent.

In case you're not aware, there are poly spring isolator pads available, if needed or wanted. For U-bolts, you can get them at a parts store. Match them up by diameter and center to center spread distance. In most cases, you will need to cut them to length as they're "universal" parts.

Is it a LeBaron T&C, or just a regular LeBaron wagon (not T&C)?

You know what's worse? It's when you look all over for that tool you just had in your hand, and then find it,,,,,,,,in your hand. That's when you know it's time to shut off the lights, lock the door, and go in for the night.

I would suspect the master piston is not all the way released just enough to block the compensation ports, and holding some pressure in the system. With the brakes dragging, the fluid heats up and expands, but can't return to the reservoir. Then the brakes drag more and more. Never ran into it...

My '08 Mustang has the 4.0 SOHC. Fortunately, by 2008 they had the timing chain failure problem solved.

Not to mention the 3.5 Eco Boost is nothing but trouble and expensive to un-trouble usually. Don't miss working on them one tiny bit.

Ditto.

Chances are it's not an alarm. Doubt Imperials had a factory alarm, and alarms usually honk the horn over and over, not a steady blast. Just shooting possibles out. Try checking the horn relay for being stuck "on", or being energized. May want to try removing the horn pad and unplugging it (if...

Exactly.

It's a coolant temp controlled vacuum valve. CCEI is Coolant Controlled Idle Enrichment. If you car has (or had) it, one of the hoses would go to something similar to a power valve screwed to the front of the carb. It was used on the Holley 2V on 360 w/auto trans, and Thermoquad w/auto trans...

Check the bulbs, also. It's rare, but I've seen bulbs being the cause of a short to ground a handful of times in 40 years as an auto tech.

To find true TDC, turn until the piston stops, and mark the balancer. Then keep turning until the piston just starts moving back down, and mark balancer. TDC is halfway between the 2 marks. It's most accurate using a dial indicator, but for a stock, street use engine a screwdriver is close enough.

That's caused by the outer ring slipping, which puts the timing marks off.

Parking, side, tail and dash lights are on the same fuse. A short to ground in the wiring, sockets, or even a bulb will blow the fuse.

Those are basically "universal". Other than hose nipple dia, the same part fits Mopar, GM, and probably others.

It's called "Valve, A/C water comp." in the parts catalog. (Not sure what comp. is short for.) It's the coolant shut off vacuum valve, that closes to stop coolant flow through the heater core when the HVAC system is OFF or on MAX A/C. You can get them NOS, but they're generally $100+...

Yes, remove the wiper linkage and pivots assy for repair. With the washer hose T broken off for the passenger side, all the fluid will pump out there, none will come out the drivers nozzle. Path of least resistance......

You are correct, I was not. Checked my fuzzier than I thought memory. It's 2.54 and numerically lower use one carrier, 2.76 and numerically higher use the other. Prowler, disregard my previous post.

There are 2 different carriers. IIRC, 2.76 and higher (numerically lower) uses one, and 3.23 and lower (higher number) a different carrier. Moot point in this case but 2.91, not sure which it uses. Trying to put 2.76 on a 3.23 carrier will never work, and vice versa. Keep in mind, the above is...

The headlamp dimmer is a separate switch, actuated by a rod. It's attached to the steering column. Slow flashers in one direction COULD be caused by high resistance, either in the wiring, a socket, or even a faulty or incorrect bulb. Screenshot from Parts Geek for dimmer reference.

Sounds like the drag link is installed upside down. Not sure that's possible though. The pitman and idler arm studs wouldn't fit. The taper would be backwards. There's a flat near the pitman arm stud hole that says "REAR", also. It should curve down, and slightly rearward.