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Oops. You're 100% correct. And I should definitely know better. AHV was taxi/SSV after 2008.

Relevant 1984+ Sales Code Conversions: A34 - AHV (taxi/SSV) A38 - AHB (Police) S16 - SBD (Police) Options were trimmed as model years went along. Also, almost without exception, AHB Pursuit models included the AHV/SSV package(s) as standard equipment. As I always note with Chrysler squads...

Somewhere in mid-1980, maybe beginning in 1981, they added some width to the rear ends, but a newer assembly will work just fine in an older car.

26", used in a lot of stuff, including pickups. Smaller rad was for Slant 6.

I have no idea how this thread popped up. Welcome to the Internet.

The 904 and 727 shared gearset ratios through (at least) 1980, and they were pretty tepid at 2.45/1.5/1.0. In 1981, the 904 family got the wider spread, although some trucks may have kept the older ratios. The nomenclature for the transmissions was all over the place. I had an '88 A999...

Definitely do not try to use it for cruise control. That's not what it was for. It was simply to raise up the idle speed a bit to accommodate extra electrical load and to assist with engine cooling.

The designations were switched up a little bit over the years, along with some other changes, and my advice from many years of experience: Here's the basic history - '81 - '83: A904 in all retail cars. 727 (36RH), all squads, all engines (Slant 6 and 318). These were all lock-ups. '84 - mid...

Be aware that today's performance shops will generally not have yesterday's mechanics working in them. Today's techs know almost nothing about F/M/J cars, except that they're from the "malaise" era. The FSM and copies of the '86 and '88 TSBs regarding alignment procedures are probably...

I always used a heavy 3/4" but as a spacer. Worked perfectly. Look in your junk drawer, it's in there, and the price is right.

4221979 - Stoplight switch w/o Cruise 4221980 - Stoplight switch with cruise I don't know where you could find the 4221980. Dealer search, Internet search. Most likely the boneyard.

Let's hope not. First thing to do is measure, measure, and measure. Get the FSM out and your trusty tape measure, and start with ride height, then measure pitman arm to idler arm (parallel to the ground), then measure the k-frame's mounting and everything else. Adjust the ride height and the...

There is no driveshaft bushing. That's the rear engine/transmission mount. Use the civilian version, not the police version. A heavy front vibration that's not from the tires or wheels, or any other front suspension/steering component is generally incorrect or insufficient caster (camber...

I already mentioned that, earlier in the thread. It can happen on the M-body, but these things have other issues that happen with a lot more frequency.

You could shim the shock towers and have the seam welded solid on the k-frame. If the idler arm bracket is bent (common), it can be straightened on the frame rack. At that point, make sure all the bushings are good, the car is aligned to (not just within) spec, and it should be fine for several...

Stuck calipers are, unfortunately, common in the F/M/J, as they use the slider style caliper. RockAuto should have all that. Hopefully your wheel bearings were replaced when they did the rotors. Nothing done there, however, would cure a steering wheel shake. It needs a visit to the frame and...

One other thought - I used to modify the EGR circuit to eliminate half the apparatus used in that system. It still functions as intended, just simplified. You'll need your trusty box o' tees, new vacuum hose, and the vacuum diagrams for the car. You're going to tee the EGR vacuum hose into...

Ok. Quick cheap fix: Plug that hose (or cap the port), not with a screw but a golf tee or something like that. Next, you're going to get a small set of plastic vacuum tees from O'Reilly or someplace, and tee the air cleaner line into the line that serves the choke vacuum kick. You'll probably...

Douglas is Goodyear, so they should be ok. A bad shake, and only at a certain speed, is probably not the tire. A vibration like that is more likely to be bushings or ball joints. You could also check the steering gear bolts, and the area of the k-frame it mounts to, to make sure it's not...

Ok. You have the correct carb. At the end of that hose would've been a vacuum delay valve, then it would run up to the bottom of the intake, to the air temp sensor. Another hose would run from the sensor to the flapper valve on the snorkel. You could just plug it with a golf tee, and it should...

You could have a bad tire (belt separation) that might not show up until higher speeds, higher tire temps, etc. The Roadforce balancing is a good idea, but rotating the tires would definitely confirm if it's a tire. Generally, with a steering wheel shake, you're looking at a bad tire, a bad...

Every gasoline car and truck built today used Electronic Spark Advance and Electronic Fuel Control. Chrysler ditched points ignition well over 50 years ago, and before GM and Ford did. As Mike so eloquently put it, if you don't know what you're dealing with, it makes it very difficult to...

You can't possibly get a better constant mixture or a better timing curve in the 2bbl cars than with a good running ESA/EFC system. That's a simple fact. The only exception might be the factory 4bbl cars, as the timing curve is very conservative. But, you can't beat the incredible drivability...

It's for the air cleaner - heated air nipple is the Mopar name for it. Runs to the air temp sensor in the air cleaner based, then to the flapper valve in the snorkel. Some vehicles had an vacuum delay valve in this line. Wrong carb for the car, which should be a feedback BBD.