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Hey man, did you ever figure it out? If you still need answers, I'm here for ya.

Not into an F-body, but into an A-body it was a piece of cake, on a 4-post lift. What I did was to lower the tail and install the unit, then with a jack, I cranked it up into the tunnel hard. This made witness marks in the tunnel, so I knew exactly where she wanted clearance. Then I just took...

1) Firstly, your 318, if it has even compression, has the torque to pull that caravan trailer. I know because my Dad's '84 did for thousands of miles even with the 2.45s, at least on the prairies around here.. 2) but if it's a lean-burn, you gotta prove that ignition timing advance is still...

I'm going with a bad convertor sprague.

Got pics of the wagon or fuller description?

318 ? factory 4-speed? Is the rear seat still in it?

I don't want to be the one but; I have run the the compression ratio up on my combo to as much as 11.3, with cranking pressure approaching 200 psi, and ran it for 16 years on 87E10. One combo I had went 32 mpg in overdrive with gearing that was making 65=1600 rpm. So the point is this, if...

I installed a Hi-Flo Milodon on my HO 367 in 2001 or so. She's still going strong. Jus saying.

The thing that makes the racket is the aspitator valve that was hooked up to the 2bbl air cleaner. While it was in there, it was quiet. or at least not loud. But with a 4bbl on it now, I bet you just left that thing sticking up, and so yeah, that valve is awful noisy. And, of course, if you did...

That's 404 cubic inches of total chamber + cylinder volume, filled to one atmosphere, when the piston is at BDC. not 404 cubes of engine displacement. this makes the formula work. The regular formula is (engine cid x rpm)/3456= carb size in cfm. For my engine that would be (367...

I add the combustion chamber.(*) So for my 367; the Swept is 752cc and the chamber is 75cc for a total of 827cc which is 50.5 cubes, and times 8 cylinders =404 cid; and (404 x 6500)/3456 =760cfm and I run a Holley 750DP. I have run smaller carbs but the engine seemed sluggish. If I had a...

Wow, almost a week and no one replied? hmmmmmmm Here are some pointers; As to the noise in the pedal; >At the pivot up under the dash, there is a massive clip that holds the pivot pin in the bushing. My guess is that the bushing is dry, and or the clip is AWOL. If the pedal moves over too far...

As for a streeter the basics are to match your parts for your particular combination. If you have an automatic and plan to run 3.23s, then there is no good reason to have parts that are good for 6500, cuz yur only ever gonna get there but once on the way to the speed limit, and the tires are...

forget about it, lol

As for the EGR valve, it is possible for them to be disconnected yet still operating at some unknown level. That goofy looking thing is just a vacuum-operated pintle valve. and if any carbon accumulates around the shaft, it is possible for it to hang open. When this happens you may have a hard...

An Ammeter indicates which power source is powering your car, either alternator or battery. The regulator is there to Command the alternator to maintain a slightly higher output-pressure (voltage) than the battery. If the ammeter is bouncing on the switch-point, it could simply be because the...

I agree with the above and and this The thing is this, until your current carb runs out of airflow, the 4bbl is no advantage, even if it opens right after idle. Because......... any carb only flows what the engine asks for. So in effect, if the tires don't spin, you may be waiting until...

The hi-flo stats have a larger window opening, than the more common stuff. Stats only set the Minimum cooling system temp, by closing below their rated temp. Once they have opened as far as they can, they are just there. The big window is then LESS of a restriction to the circulating coolant...

At first they say it is a stock 5.9M Then on tear-down they find that the bearings are Not stock so they say the engine is a rebuilt. Ok fine, but no mention of whether the cam is stock or not. To their credit, the measured it. Their cam measures ; 192/198@.050 and 111/-4 with lobe lift of...

With KB107s , late 318 bushed rods , and a stock cast crank, all ARP fasteners/externally balanced, valvetrain aside, I regularly wind my LA up to 7000 ....... on the street...... even tho she hasn't been opened up since 2004/5. Currently she has well over 100,000miles on the clock...

Hooked up that way, the battery has the higher pressure, so what you are doing is measuring battery voltage while the ECU is bouncing the coil to ground in tandem with the Magnetic pick up. Whatever numbers you are getting, IMO, are meaningless, for the purpose of diagnosing your system.

Sorry double post and no delete button.

Ok so if you connect the coil neg to the batter pos while the engine is running, as per How can the engine even stay running? You are attempting to pump battery voltage into the ECU, backwards thru the coil. This should totally extinguish the incoming ECU signal, making it go from a pulsed 8...

Did you do this while the car was running?

76 and 79 for me; 318/904s both. Hauled my kids around for a few years, but rust killed them. My 76 was just like OPs, but the 79 was creamy-yellow.