Search results for query: blend door

No idea what fan speed would have to do with the A/C not working. However, if the blend door isn't working you'll get some heat, or a lot of heat unless you select MAX A/C. Along with the recirc door moving to inside air, it also shuts the coolant flow off to the heater core using a vacuum...

The AC does work in the other positions (Norm & Bi-Level), but it can't cool the car because the blend door is stuck on full heat (or the servomotor is broken). Max AC closes off outside air. The speed of the blower is controlled only by the fan switch.

I should have mentioned - yes, it is the semi automatic.. But why does the AC work, on highest fan speed, but not other speeds?

I had a similar problem on my 1988 Diplomat. The servo-controlled blend door was stuck on full heat. The fix was not simple. It involved taking the dashboard apart (riveted panels) to get to the heater box. I removed the servo and gradually freed the stuck door with vice grips attached to the...

I have run into this on most cars from the 60's onward. When the problem is no defrost, or weird blend air door issues etc, it's almost always a vacuum line or cracked reservoir. The old Cadillacs are a real nightmare.

dash back in after repairing the blend door on the heater box

Another possible cause is the temperature control cable came off either the lever at the control panel or at the blend door bell crank at the heater box, or the cable housing is detached at one end.

Let me see if I can get some better pictures of the real thing. For a temporary fix, and once the SATC servo motor is out, you can get a small pair of vice grips which will hold the door one side or the other. I had to doctor my picture a little bit to get it to work correctly. The blend air...

if i removed the blower motor n fan assembly do u think i could reach in and get at the blend door?

...in a satc motor to play with ,,i dont think i can tackle this job---so can u tell me if i can cut into the heater box to get at the blend door ( attach a wire,rod ,something) to be able to move it? if i start this job it will take me weeks to get it done -too long ,too painful , so i am...

I have two evaporator cases in my garage. One from an ‘80 F-body (non-SATC) and the other ’84 Gran Fury (SATC). The cases could interchange except for the two hoses for the aspirator and the evaporator temp sensor. The aspirator is the red circle which screws onto the case. There are two...

The actuator (being held) resides in the pink circle. The Radio attachment ear is shown by yellow arrow. Between the yellow arrow and pink circle, there is a triangle/pyramid shaped a/c duct that needs pulled out (only held in by friction) and a piece of insulation (for noise). Almost all...

...heat, indexed the ATC to match, unplugged it from the electrical connector and screwed it back on, Great now I got heat. The stump of the blend door does not stick up above the surface of the heater box;( or maybe it does just a lil) and it's it a bear to grab hold of and turn. So, there is...

ATC Automatic Temperature Control is what you have as there’s no cable control. The ATC has a black box servo (mounted above the blend doors rod) to open and close the blend door. See the above pic

The AC/Heating (HVAC) system used from ’76-79 (F and M-body) is completely different than the HVAC system used from ’80-89 (FMJ). Also, the no-A/C is completely different from A/C versions. I can’t comment about the differences between standard no-A/C versions vs Bi-Level no-A/C versions, for...

Looks like I was premature in saying I'd fixed the S.A.T.S. blend door motor, it quit a day later. Which leaves me with a problem; Does anyone have a working motor I can buy?, or would it be easier to fabricate a cable operation for it, which I understand non S.A.T.S. and non a/c cars have...

thanks i will try to take out glove box i don't hear the clicking but your help gets me closer to the door thanks happy holidays

...tic-tic-tic-tic continuously. It had stripped it's gears trying to move the stuck door it was attached to. I think that mightabin the blend door. Anyway, I removed the gearbox, manually unstuck the door, put it where I estimated I wanted it to be for full heat(it was late fall)...

The foam falls apart after about 10 years of use, it seams, even on the new cars. Go to a hardware store and get what you can. Sometimes a hobby shop might even have something - what to use is not critical. All it does is help with (door closing) noises and helps keeping the hot air away from...

...time.. but I succeeded. Only now, the blower motor runs but not on high (0, 1, 2, 3, 4 are fine but no 5). And I could manually move the blend door prior to putting the new accuator in, but now it doesn't do anything. Both the old accuator and the new accuator seemed to be working prior to...

I had the same problem with my '88 Diplomat. The servo worked fine; the blend door itself was stuck on full heat. I fixed it by grabbing the rod that stuck out (for the servo) with vice grips and gradually working the door back and forth. I wondered if it was stuck from the factory, since the...

I have a box of “bad” blend air door servo motors. Even tried to fix a couple – to no avail. The "add-on" water shutoff valve works fine – but I wouldn’t keep it shut off for a long period of time. Been my experience that a lack of coolant flow though the heater core causes them to leak a lot...

IME with my 5th aves, when you slide the temp lever hotter or colder, this sends current to the electric motor on top of the blend air door to open or close depending on your desired temp. Mine got stuck on full heat and the motor never worked again, so I had to disconnect the heater hoses and...

Man, that's a noisy little servo. Got mine working, thank you to all who've posted pics and descriptions, made short work of it. I could not tell exactly what the problem was, however.I had the typical 'temp lever won't go all the way to the right... the temp sliding switch inside had...

The blend air door servo ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR seems to be the culprit for my occasional 'no-heat' situation for my 88 5A w/ATC, as it crumbled in my fingers when I went to inspect it. The CONNECTOR has two 'pinch-together' tabs, the top one broke. Is there a known PART NUMBER for these...