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Yeah, I've got a few, lol. I did a big one not long after I started posting to the forum and did a yearly project log after that. I should probably drop these in my signature. Initial Build Thread 2018 Project Log 2019 Project Log 2020 Project Log 2021 Project Log 2023 Project Log 2024...

That is so damn cool. You should start a build thread.

To be honest, Dearborn is kind of a shithole. I usually pass right through it on 696 unless I'm going to the axle shop. I can be anywhere in the city in about 20 minutes from work, but I couldn't hazard a guess on what's nice. You, I and @M_Body_Coupe should hope on a Teams/Zoom/Meet call and...

The technical answer: it's the cat's ass. It's as close to rack and pinion as you're going to get in a worm screw box. Faster ratio, tighter lock-to-lock feel and zero slop at 12 o' clock. The slop at 12 is something that is inherent to the factory design and can't be eliminated by rebuilding...

I can burn a day off Tuesday if need be to help with scheduling.

Very, very cool. I fought fuel scavenging issues from a lack of baffles after fuel injecting the car for a few years. The route you went with the Hydramat should prove to be very effective.

I have one complete Moog torsion bar end bushing in the housing. Rubber is in excellent condition. If it helps you in this project, it's yours.

I'm running those same shocks on my car. They compliment the FF bars very well. Handles and rides like a modern car. Keep us posted on your build. Sounds like fun!

Be prepared for sticker shock if they have them in stock. I'm running a set, but I bought mine more than a decade ago. Absolutely blew me away in the difference in handling. Grab the rear too, and don't be afraid of rust. Spring steel seems to be able to survive the rust belt. I pulled a...

All F/M/J torsion bars are the same spring rate at about 140#. Only way to get higher rate bars is Firm Feel and their bars are 300#. The A38/AHB cars did have thicker front sway bars and included a rear bar. They are 1 1/8" on the front and 3/4" on the back. Civi cars only had a 1 1/16"...

LMFAO. None of the domestic sedans out of the factory in the 80's were fast. Sounds like the kind of guy that dazzles people with bullshit.

I'm game. Dearborn isn't far from me. When will you be there? The 27th is a major US holiday, so I won't be able to meet that Thursday.

Dearborn as in Dearborn, Michigan?

Beside my Dad's car and my own there is another forum member here with it on his coupe. It's an expensive upgrade and usually it's only seen on project cars that get silly amounts of money thrown at them. If your car is strictly an all weather DD then Steer and Gear might be a better cheaper...

This is the kit you want: BAC Steering Box Conversion Kit - Large Sector 73-82 - Bergman Auto Craft I'm running this on my 5A and Dad has it on his Diplomat. You'll need a high pressure hose, also from Bergman.

I'm not trying to dog you, but you did ask for opinions and I am an aggressively opinionated individual, so...... I do the same thing. There are 'upgrades' on my car that my current self would talk my past self out of. At $650 tubular upper control arms would be one. I had already replaced...

I hope you like squeaks and creaks. Ask me how I know. If it's one thing I've learned is to always use rubber for control arms and springs. Poly is great for sway bars.

Correct, it's not impossible, nor is it even hard. Mechanically these cars are no harder to mod than an A body with much of the aftermarket support for A/B/C/E cars working on F/J/M. Your only hang up is sheet metal availability and if that scares you then keeping it OEM isn't going to make it...

All I see is rusty junk. Maybe I'm jaded, but what people ask for old parts now a days is just nuts. If you're keen on spending coin then just get HD Firm Feel shackle kit and use your existing mounts. The non-fleet mounts aren't exactly a point of weakness. I know the factory used the...

I've never known there to be an A38 Lebaron and the car next to it is painted fire department red with TRAFFIC on the side. They probably grabbed whatever M was in sight and dressed them up.

I WANT that crank shirt! Where!? lol.

I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too with this build and so far I think I've succeeded. It's mostly a street car and it needs to handle, but traction is also a consideration. Mono leaf springs ride rough and I stayed away from sliders because of the noise. Ground clearance isn't an issue...

I am NEVER going to be able to look at a baby shower invitation without smirking again.

Dad and I are running them with regular leaf packs. Is this still a street car? If it is I wouldn't go mono leaf.

I have brand new in the box voltage regulators if you need one. You can have it for the cost of the ride. If you change the color then to do it right you need to paint the jams, under hood/truck, everything. Gets to be very, very expensive.