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EFI isn't going to fix anything over a properly functioning 2bbl. If you want EFI for the creature comforts, then go for it, but your deciding factor shouldn't be having a driving car. I'm using a Sniper in my car and I'm happy. As noted the fuel tank is the biggest obstacle. These tanks are...

Wagons were geared lower and /6 even lower still. OP's car is going to have a 2.24:1. We can sit here and argue about it until the sun burns out. Our frames of reference are grounded in different times. The interstate is now 70MPH and Kia shitboxes will do 14 second quarters. OP is just...

They're shorter. The series measurement is the percentage of width, 60% the width of 255. These cars are geared ridiculously high from the factory, so a shorter tire is probably what you want.

My car is a corner carver (for what it is). I've been through so many combinations of parts over the years it's stupid. The solid bushings aren't going to ruin ride quality. Pair them with a set of new Monroe shocks and it'll ride nice. If I were I'd weld in a set of frame ties and add...

235-60-15 on the front and 255-60-15 on the back won't rub. You can fit 275-60-15 on the rear with the correct offset, but it's close and you need to measure. Anything larger than on the front and it'll rub the torsion bars and K at full lock with a 4.5" BS.

Yeah, I'm there with you. Straight torsion bar setups are easier to work on and everyone makes bars for them.

Professional work. Almost looks new.

Merry Christmas.

That's exactly what I did when I rebuilt the front end of the 5A, many moons ago now.

Nope, one bar to rule them all. Traverse cars only ever got the 140# rate bar. That's why when FF released their bars years ago I jumped on it. To my knowledge Firm Feel is the only outfit to have ever produced aftermarkets traverse torsion bars.

Did you ever get that torsion bar bushing I sent you?

I just gave one of those away to a board member. lol.

I'm guessing with you being in Finland means parts are hard to come by. So telling you to find better heads is not going to work. Those heads are probably 4027163 castings; which are open chamber, 1.78/1.50 valves and tiny runners. Ideally you'd want the later 1985+ 302 castings that are...

Yeah, I've got a few, lol. I did a big one not long after I started posting to the forum and did a yearly project log after that. I should probably drop these in my signature. Initial Build Thread 2018 Project Log 2019 Project Log 2020 Project Log 2021 Project Log 2023 Project Log 2024...

That is so damn cool. You should start a build thread.

To be honest, Dearborn is kind of a shithole. I usually pass right through it on 696 unless I'm going to the axle shop. I can be anywhere in the city in about 20 minutes from work, but I couldn't hazard a guess on what's nice. You, I and @M_Body_Coupe should hope on a Teams/Zoom/Meet call and...

The technical answer: it's the cat's ass. It's as close to rack and pinion as you're going to get in a worm screw box. Faster ratio, tighter lock-to-lock feel and zero slop at 12 o' clock. The slop at 12 is something that is inherent to the factory design and can't be eliminated by rebuilding...

I can burn a day off Tuesday if need be to help with scheduling.

Very, very cool. I fought fuel scavenging issues from a lack of baffles after fuel injecting the car for a few years. The route you went with the Hydramat should prove to be very effective.

I have one complete Moog torsion bar end bushing in the housing. Rubber is in excellent condition. If it helps you in this project, it's yours.

I'm running those same shocks on my car. They compliment the FF bars very well. Handles and rides like a modern car. Keep us posted on your build. Sounds like fun!

Be prepared for sticker shock if they have them in stock. I'm running a set, but I bought mine more than a decade ago. Absolutely blew me away in the difference in handling. Grab the rear too, and don't be afraid of rust. Spring steel seems to be able to survive the rust belt. I pulled a...

All F/M/J torsion bars are the same spring rate at about 140#. Only way to get higher rate bars is Firm Feel and their bars are 300#. The A38/AHB cars did have thicker front sway bars and included a rear bar. They are 1 1/8" on the front and 3/4" on the back. Civi cars only had a 1 1/16"...

LMFAO. None of the domestic sedans out of the factory in the 80's were fast. Sounds like the kind of guy that dazzles people with bullshit.

I'm game. Dearborn isn't far from me. When will you be there? The 27th is a major US holiday, so I won't be able to meet that Thursday.