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rolling now. needs alignment and lotsa of tweeks

tube is tube. aluminum doesn't bend very nicely. tends to crack when it has had enough movement. use some copper/steel line instead

does the master from a B350 fit? it is also two bolt like on my car, but i am not sure if the bolt pattern is bigger. with the larger 6 piston calipers i need more fluid

Raybestos was garbage ever since they were bought up years ago. wear was fast, fitment was hit or miss and almost always made noise. even before 2020 i stayed away. i really avoided installing their parts on customer cars. i only want to do a job once. one company that i will miss will be NGK.

i have 275/50 on cop wheels only needed a slight message on the fender lip

i can help you get rid of that steering wheel and those pedals for you if it comes time.

What about Quick Release adopters for the tilt columns (1980)

passenger side went OK, bu the driver's side was a pain. very hard to get the adjuster end up, just didnt want to go. the bolts on the arm were way off. had to jack, pry, wedge pull to get one bolt in. then whoever designed these braces did a poor job. not only does it cover the lower ball joint...

that was fun the first time, so now that i realize that the nuts for the bar adjusters need to go up with it again, i dropped it and did it a second time. but i think the 3*c weather is effecting my thought processes, the nuts have to go a certain way. lucky all that you need to do is remove the...

there was so much tension under these new bars, that a jack was needed just to jam it up into the member.

have i mentioned that i hate this front suspension? i mean, i understand the corporate logic that went into it, but it is bad. the older A, B, C, E design was so much better. anyways... remember kids, when you order a swaybar end link kit, it is just for ONE side, not both. moving on, does...

track car. gonna see how fast an old pile of crap that was largely ignored can go.

are you using rubber or poly?

you are 100% correct. i was tired and not thinking.

i think the older ones, not sure, buddies have done them on cherokee's to get rid of the 8.25

get a 8.8 from an Explorer, disc brakes included in it, stronger, better gear ratios too

but removing the end piece was a huge mistake.. that poly bushing is under so much tension, that it press too hard and there is no way i'd be able to line up both holes on the bar and get it to work. i had to weld it back on and struggle installing the bushing

i never knew the end part could even come off. thinking this was awesome i proceed to fight and swear at the rubber. the thin shell came right off, the other one was welded to the bushing, which in turn was welded to the center. i drilled, pryed, cut. in the end i sliced the rubber in two places...

now this is not the rusted to nothing one i played with. started as a nice used bushing from Duke5A. thinking this one is nice it should be even easier than the last ones.......

got the other bar end finished, ready for restoring {paint} and installation

its a GM steering column with a dodge horn button

Depending on the front hangar you run, either E body or A body springs. unless you stick with the FMJ hangar, then its 24inch front segment

these car;s front suspensions are cool and totally terrible at the same time. the swaybars act as strut rods, yet they mount them on flexible mounts that deflect quite a bit. maybe making more of a solid mount would make it better?

no feeling like the feeling of grinding on $2000 because racecar. im sure that whatever paint i cover it with will totally not burn off after 2 laps. lucky that these wheels cover all the scars

at my sister's still. need to find time to run across and grab it. i only rebuilt the better one. just played with the trashed one while bored at work.