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They have it backwards. Odd is left, even is right. Of course that doesn't apply to numbers without a dash. Thank you Mr. Obvious, right? LOL

The last p/n digit 4 means right side, 5 means left. The 1st 6 digits remain the same and 7th digit will be one or the other. All Mopar numbers with a dash are the same thing. Even is right, odd is for the left side.

I agree.

They aren't really repairable. Best is to replace it with a good latch. You'll probably need a hand impact driver to get the screws broke loose. If you're not familiar, you use the correct size phillips bit and hit the end of the tool with a hammer.

Ooh, leg burners, lol Way "back in the day", a friend of mine had a '70 Challenger with side pipes. Had to be really careful getting in or out of the car. Learned that while wearing shorts one night.

Not really what you're looking for, but my fronts are 15x7 with 4.5" backspace and 235/60-15. Rear axle isn't stock (15x8 5.5" back space). Wheels are only aftermarket by being repops.

That's pretty much exactly what my Aspen weighs. Last it was weighed, 3.980 lbs with full tank of fuel.

You need to check ball joints at ride height, not hanging. What I mean is, jack it up on the lower control arm (if you didn't that is). At full "droop" joints can seem fine and be loose at ride height. Wheel bearings should have slight play when cold. That's so they aren't too tight after...

Rollover valve goes in the vent line. Maybe a pic from the service manual will help a little? My car has the valve in the top of the tank. I'll try to see if I can get some decent pics of the e‐brake today, unless someone beats me to it.

You shouldn't eliminate the roll over valve. It has nothing to do with the fuel supply line. It's there to keep liquid fuel from leaking out the vent line in case of, well, a rollover. If the tank vent system is plugged, it's a 99.9% chance it's not caused by the valve, which on your car is in...

That side nipple is a vapor bleed, to help reduce the chance of vapor lock. There is, or should be, a .060" orifice in the nipple. If it's missing, like in some cut rate filters, it could cause problems. With the orifice, very little to no liquid fuel will go back to the tank.

'76 to mid '79 had the rollover vent valve under the passenger floor, near the cowl. After 04.02.79 it moved to the top of the fuel tank. Does the same job of preventing fuel from running out the vent line if the car somehow ends up on it's roof.

The 3M automotive woodgrain is available in various woods. Customautotrim.com is one vendor I found. Seems it's definitely not inexpensive.

DMPS-4538 Mopar 1976-80 Roadrunner Volare Aspen F-body Fuel Lines - dantesparts.com Inline Tube used to have the fuel and vapor lines, but they're not listed anymore.

This outfit has the 352 spacer, but only 1 it appears, and no 4014353. Can't get the darn attachment to post. Enter Mopar 4014352 in the search on Ebay, and scroll down 3 or 4 lines. I had to put the spacers in a few years ago, and it put the camber, and also the toe, exactly back to where...

Yes, B-body insulators are the same as fmj. The urethane ones in my Aspen were listed as '73 and up B-body. Fit perfectly.

It'll be on a vacuum tree behind the carb. Similar to the pic, but your's will have more nipples and the brake booster hose. I have a big block without power brakes, but you get the idea. The tube connected is for the HVAC.

It wasn't meant as an insult. Guess everything makes you butt hurt, and this isn't the first time with you so,,,,,well, I'll just stop there. I'm outta here.

Well,,,,in 1973, I finished 3rd grade in May, and started 4th grade that September. So you are wrong, camel toe breath.

Back when I was a kid, cell phones weren't even a concept in some inventors head yet. lol

Sounds like you are seeing the parking brake cables. Without photos, so going by your description.The rear hose goes from the brake line vertically to the rear axle, and is attached to the axle tube with a hollow bolt, which is also the axle vent.

In case you're not aware, there are poly spring isolator pads available, if needed or wanted. For U-bolts, you can get them at a parts store. Match them up by diameter and center to center spread distance. In most cases, you will need to cut them to length as they're "universal" parts.

Is it a LeBaron T&C, or just a regular LeBaron wagon (not T&C)?

You know what's worse? It's when you look all over for that tool you just had in your hand, and then find it,,,,,,,,in your hand. That's when you know it's time to shut off the lights, lock the door, and go in for the night.

I would suspect the master piston is not all the way released just enough to block the compensation ports, and holding some pressure in the system. With the brakes dragging, the fluid heats up and expands, but can't return to the reservoir. Then the brakes drag more and more. Never ran into it...