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It's a matter of opinion, but to me, absolutely not. You can even get good sound with manifolds. A cam with a little chop to it will do more for sound between short and long tube. When I big block swapped my car I had a set of stainless shorties custom made. I'll never go back to long tubes...

Any mild steel header is going to rust. Even expensive TTI pieces that are coated inside and out. If you want it to look as minty as the rest of that motor and drive the car regularly stainless is your only option. There are SS headers available. These are obviously Chinese, but they do fit...

Damn it, why do you have to be so far away. I've got a used set you can have. I'm not willing to go through the hassle of shipping though. My opinion? I ran those style of small block headers for years. You're going to flatten those tubes that run under the steering link. What are your...

Don't use the factory rocker gear and change those springs. 50lbs to 80lbs is a hell of a difference in open pressure and you're going to risk valve float. The factory roller cam only ran to 4500 and this one will probably run to 5500.

It's been ten years now since I did the BB swap. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them look up a 1978 (last year for big blocks) Dodge with a 400. Then browsed the photos until I found a booster with only two studs for the master cylinder.

Are you really looking at axles as far away as PA?

Probably weld it. You have to weld the perch back on anyways.

What is the overall goal of the car? Budget? Driven all year?

I think what people swap in is 8.8 Fords out of a Mustang. If I recall properly, they don't need to be cutdown, but the perches do need to be set. You can get rear disc brakes and limited slip fairly cheap as a result.

Basically what Mike said. Is it all still functioning? And are you doing this as a stepping stone to further upgrades?

This stuff is getting extremely hard to find now. Firm Feel used to sell brand new higher rate torsion bars, but last I looked they were delisted. Even if they have them you're looking at over $1k for the bars. Even their sway bars are expensive. I bought a new 1.25" front bar a few years...

Never found one in my '87. I don't think it was ever apart either before I owned it.

That header tube that runs across five and seven on most small block headers is a serious pain.

I removed mine and capped the line off with no noticeable drawbacks. Ran it that way with a 4bbl for years. Never smelled gas either.

What kind of lines are running? PTFE line and Fragola Real Street fittings are what you want. Pricey, but excellent stuff. Makes for great power steering lines too. Real easy to put together.

That's an impressive cobbled together setup. You'd have fun tuning something like a Sniper. If you swap for a 42RH transmission and increase the gear ratio just enough to maintain the same final drive ratio with OD your city mileage will improve markedly while getting the same highway. I like...

You're going to like that setup. Be sure to tweak the spark map on a computer to dial in your vacuum advance curve.

It was a small local high school auto shop get-together too and this guy pulls in a few minutes behind us with that midnight blue coupe. It's a survivor car with an original 20k on the odometer. It's wild because I could spend all day on Woodward and not see another M and here were are with...

That looks absolutely amazing.

What's wild is this is considered skinny by today's standards.

If body is super nice, paint and everything I've seen these cars fetch $8500. Put it up for sale high. You can always lower the price, but you can't raise it after it's gone.

If this is your problem you could attempt redo the factory spot welds. We had a member here replace the entire cross member with a piece of box tube with flat stock on the ends. The tube was angled and bushed to accept the top shock bolts at the correct angle. That's the best way, but it's a...

I've seen the upper shock mount that spans between the frame rails come lose before. Get the car in the air, support it the back with stands under the frame rails so the axle and springs are unloaded. Then start trying to move things around. Check the axle for side-to-side play and get a hand...

RPM Air Gap has the same thermostat placement as the RPM Performer. Both will interfere with factory A/C compressor mounts.

Regardless, the op's symptoms sound very close to vapor lock. When I was a kid kinking that side line coming off of the filter fixed a horrible vapor locking condition and got me home. He should try this at least to aid in troubleshooting.