Search results for query: *

It was a 1981 7 1/4 and it had 2 1/2" axle tubes.

Just trying to save you some potential grief. I couldn't use studs on the passenger side when I put 340 manifolds on my small block. I usually use blue loctite on exhaust studs and it even seals heli-coiled threads.

Before you install those studs make sure that the headers can still be installed while in the car. You might have to use bolts. I recommend Stage 8.

The 7 1/4 does not have smaller axle flanges. I swapped the brakes from my 7 1/4 to an 8 3/4.

A removable steering wheel is another option.

Since you have to replace the carrier, now is the right time to also upgrade to a sure grip.

The pump is a GM saginaw power steering pump. Parts from GM vehicles are interchangeable so you have lots of potential donors. Follow this link for some good info. Just keep in mind that they're talking about trucks. In my experience the original steering gear on our cars is very forgiving of...

After a lot of searching I found this write up. It points in the right direction. https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/modifiying-saginaw-power-steering-pump-revive.2712489/

The secondaries won't open if the choke isn't completely off. Make sure that you have the engine warmed up and the choke is fully open.

Hi, I'm having a lot of frustration with getting my pressure and flow setup for my Borgeson steering box. I wonder if you have come up with a satisfactory combination. I'm testing a 7 1/4" dia. crank pulley and I still don't have adequate assist at idle.

Paul Rossi put an A-body front clip in his Mirada. It didn't look that difficult.

Here's how I did mine.

You can make them fit by modifying the brackets and shackles but I don't think you'll like the result. They're intended for drag racing.

Lots of good comments here but I would like to add something that hasn't been mentioned. The gen 3 hemi design locates the camshaft much higher in the block in order to improve the pushrod angle. There is no lifter valley for the oil to pass through and splash on the camshaft on it's way back to...

For those with fabrication skills this picture might provide some inspiration.

I converted my Mirada to the early style. It's much easier to find gears. The adapter is metal not plastic so it seems more durable. The cable needs to be changed to an earlier version. I needed a longer one for my 518 transmission swap so it was a good time to make the change.

No, 1 1/2 x 1 1/2. A couple of installation tips: bolt the shocks on to locate the proper position, make sure the bolts can be removed, and check exhaust clearance.

My Mirada always made a strange boing sound when going over bumps. I couldn't find anything loose so I made a heavier version out of tubing since the crossmember seemed to be the flimsiest part in that area. I'm sure the shocks are more effective now and the sound is gone.

That chart isn't entirely correct. In 1980 FMJ body axles gained an inch (25.4mm) in width.

I just picked it up. Thanks for the tip!

I had 3.23's in my daily driver Mirada and I thought it was the perfect ratio. When I installed the overdrive transmission I went with 3.91. Gear swaps are the best bang for the buck.

I should mention that it needs to be the later version. The earlier version doesn't have the odometer reset button going through the gauge face like the J-body.

Surprisingly an E-body speedometer bolts right in. I found an original but I think they're reproduced now. I also installed the matching tach but that requires some cutting and splicing of the circuit board.

I had a fuel line leak once. Just enough of a leak for the fuel pump to suck air but not enough for it to leak fuel. It was on top of the frame rail under the control arm.

I removed the flimsy shock crossmember and replaced it with a piece of mild steel tubing. I would absolutely recommend this modification. It eliminated a "boing" sound that used to come from the back of my car.