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Can you tell me more about how to determine if the reluctor is bad-causing timing to wander 2-3 degrees at 3000 RPM? I replaced my timing chain on the slant 6 and expected the timing to be steady as a result and am still seeing the timing move around..

I'm starting to daydream about an electric fuel pump up in the engine bay. It's sole purpose is to prime the carb after the car has been sitting. Then I put a momentary switch in to energize it for 5 seconds or so, and the car starts like it should... question is, do I put the momentary pump...

This thing has a Holley 600 or 650 installed by the PO. I guess it is something everyone deals with... so I don't have to go trying to fix what is not broken.... Just drive the car more often dude.. simple solution..

Yes, well I don't fill the float bowls, but I squirt some gas down the throat and off it goes..

It's a reman AC Delco that fits the 68-73 LA engines. I had a rock auto on on the car but suspect it was weeping fuel into the crankcase. Ah, how about a fuel accumulator with the same capacity as the fuel bowl? (like the pre oiler systems or oil accumulator systems I don't really know what...

Mechanical fuel pump... and just replaced it last week, b/c I thought it was weeping fuel into the crankcase... I don't at this moment know if that has effected or improved the long crank times in some positive way.

So I need a electronic fuel pump priming system..? Or remove the air filter each time.. which is my preference over long cranking times, but takes some of the fun out of jumping in the car after a long while...

Is this because of the gas evaporating out of the carburetor? OR do I have an issue with the carb float, or a check valve in the fuel pump that is allowing fuel to drain back to the tank? Any suggestions and or remedies? One thing I enjoy most about non FI engines is that they start at the turn...

That would be too easy, and besides this way I can spend $150, and 4 hours messing around.. Honestly I never thought of an aftermarket HEI specific mopar distributor..

Thanks, I just decided last night to put it on the passenger fender. Will go looking for those two nuts this weekend.

Ok, I am going to have a go at putting it on the manifold.. Thanks Guys, I never would have even considered that spot.

Not sure where the coil was originally. The PO had it attached to the starter relay..

Ok, Thank you. I will go looking in that direction for something that works. I can't see how I can fit it behind the air cleaner... Tho a 2BBL may give more room in this area? I am probably stuck with a spot on the firewall just to the right and below the round brace that goes out to the...

The stock location is where? I am guessing that it is over on the passenger side fender above the wheel?

My Mopar electronic ignition control gave up while sitting over the winter, and I have decided to put an HEI in the car. The question is where to place the new parts.. Wanting to put them on the firewall, but there is very little room that does not already have something there. I'm leaning...

I don't have enough technical experience to voice any suggestions regarding electrical troubleshooting and repairs... I can say that my experience with a new "Standard automotive parts" voltage regulator was disappointing. I eventually ended up getting an "adjustable" voltage regulator from...

What State are you in? No titles needed in VT if the vehicle is over 15 years old...

Diagrams here for a few different options. My understanding is any electronic ignition coil will work, but the ones designed for an HEI type system are best. Ford trucks from 85-96 used a coil that works well and is easy to get a coil to distributor wire for.. I used a coil from a 98 GM 5.7L...

Carter BBD, I believe is one option. I would be inclined to look into a autolite 2bbl, I think it is. The Jeep 258 guys have more to say about that swap as they got a crappy version of the BBD. The Mopar BBD is quite good, other than the throttle shaft wear, which creates a vacuum leak...

Yeah, I bet it was a pain in the neck to do.. My gauges work, but all that high tech stuff like fuel economy, and other computer functions that the digital cluster is suppose to report on do not play along. I dislike digital gauges!

I just assembled an HEI from a junkyard mopar distributor, a $25 HEI module, and an hours time. In the ideal world I will get an HEI specific coil, but that can wait for now.

My imperial was converted by the previous owner. I doubt he used the conversion kit, or the dealer, although I do not have any evidence to back up that statement.. The car has a weiand dual plane, and a 600cfm Holley. The speedo works, as do the gauges, except the odometer. There are a handful...

It has been 15 or 20 years since I have had a metal oil can in my hands... had to think a moment or two and then remembered the unique sound of the metal popping back into place when the oil rushing out would pull the can bottom in. I don't even have the metal spout anymore...

Off the top of my head: The distributor, Install a mechanical fuel pump, Intake manifold and carb, Not sure if the OE electronic fuel pump is in the back outside the tank, or where it is.. but that would need to be addressed.

Oh this is good news!!! Truth be told I obviously did not look hard enough, b/c I was running under the assumption that all over the steering headers were the high priced ones. . Thanks 80!