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They fit just fine. I put them (actually the Centric 41468000) on my Aspen's 8.25 five years ago, no issues.

That looks familiar. This is what I found a couple of years ago when I did my rear end: At least I finally got rid of the clunk in the rear in hard turns. :p

I see, of course I did manage to read it the wrong way. :D I can't help you with the cup size (!) for the lower joint, but I don't remember having any promblems pressing them out. What I do remember is the upper joints. -Soak the threads on the ball joints several days before you attempt to...

Are you shure the upper ball joint is pressed in? Did the front end on my Aspen a few years ago, and it did have threaded style upper ball joint: I ordered the right socket for it, and with a long breaker bar and me ending nose down on the garage floor they eventually cracked loose. I don't...

I have the same annoying issue with my poly pivot bushings, and I think it is a common problem. Sorry to say I've not found any resolution, so I cross my fingers at every MOT inspection hoping the guy doesn't point out the gap between the T-bar and bushing. There was a thread on the site a...

BudW gathered a lot of great info in this thread: FMJ Differentials And yes, same U-joint.

You mean this guy? :D

Sounds like the linkage is way out of adjusment (too long). If I were you I would connect the rod where it is supposed to be (at the throttle cable) and adjust the linkage down at the transmission. Take a look at this thread with good explanations on how to adjust it and pictures too: Kick...

The Holley Throttle Lever Extension is only useful if you're going to use the original kickdown rod setup. If you are going for the Lokar cables I would recommend you fab up something like Aspen500's picture in post #4. My experience (with Lokar) is you should have the kickdown cable move the...

I've own mine since 1994 (when I was young and full of hope). You've had yours since new, that's really cool. Got any pictures of them?

The rearward line is the return from the cooler, and the front one is the outlet from the tranny (from the oil pump housing).

I made my own tool for holding the dampener while tightening the bolt. I found a piece of flat iron, drilled two holes and grinded a half moon shape of it to clear the center of the dampener. Then I attached it to the dampener using two of the original bolts and laid a piece of wood between the...

That gap between the bushing and shell looks just like mine. Not the FF setup on mine, I reused the hardware and ordered the bushings from polybushings.com Pictures in this thread from a couple of years back, the guys also discussing a possible solution: Torsion Bar Bushings

If both sides blinks slow in "on" position I would say that's normal, because the lower voltage makes the flasher work slower. Sounds like you have different wattage between the left and right hand side. Are you sure the bulbs are the same? My Aspen got the usual low alternator voltage at idle...

I went with a cheap Lokar style knockoff when I did mine. STAINLESS STEEL THROTTLE, 904 KICK DOWN CABLE AND BRACKET KIT #6054/6055/#6056 | eBay The only thing I didn't like about it was the carb stud bracket, which looked a bit flimsy. The cables and hardware was actually good quality. Used...

Long time no see BudW. Nice to see you on the site again!

Our thoughts and our heartfelt sympathy goes out to Justwondering and her family. Thank you for sharing Darth.

Yepp. According the instructions, the wizard goes between the shaft and the inside lip...:D

1977 DODGE ASPEN 5.2L 318cid V8 Leaf Spring Insulator | RockAuto

I've gone through a bunch of forums and videos on the web trying to find out what's causing the lifter/cam failures. I have a charger with the 5.7 Hemi and i'm worried sick the dreaded lifter tick is gonna sneak up on me some day. What seems to be a common explanation is the lifters is not...

I got my Aspen from winter storage last week. I started it up and left it running on fast idle for a couple of minutes. When I touched the throttle so it could settle down on normal idle like it usually does, it stalled right away. Started right up again, but the idle was slow and it died again...

That's interesting. Actually I'm going the opposite way, I have a ~3/8" open spacer/insulator under the carb making a gap between the runners. I read on several sites that an open spacer adds a little top end power on a dual plane intake, but usually hurts the low rpm. A divided or a four hole...

I second that Camtron. I ordered the Tom Hand manual when I did my 904. I found it was more detailed than the ATSG manual I had on my computer. It was a satisfying feeling taking it apart and clean every little piece before putting it together again with new hardware and seals. I did screw up...

I'm guessing a rubber bushing is the culprit rather than ball joint. If you don't have a partner to help you bounce the front end, you could use a spray lubricant. You lubricate one bushing (torsion, sway bar and upper/lower control arm) at the time, then bounce the car and listen for a change...

Have to disagree on that one. The overall resistance in a parallel setup is always smaller than the smallest resistor. 1/Rtot = 1/R1 + 1/R2 = 0.436 --> Rtot = 1/0.436 = 22.9 Ohms. Or (75x33)/(75+33) = 22.9