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Mine (factory stamped steel) had been deformed by years of over-tightening. It was bent in like the green lines. Not enough to be visible (why I missed it the first time) but when I used a scrap piece of aluminum as a straight edge, the middle was definitely getting no sealing pressure...

Got my lower hose sorted out today. The hose needed is the stock replacement hose for an early 70s a/b/e/c body with a 318/340/360 and the 26" radiator. Just had to trim about 1.5in off the radiator side. also discovered that my thermostat housing was warped... When I filled it with coolant and...

This radiator is set up for a b/e body shroud to bolt up to it, idk if there would be any clearance issues on our cars, I don't have one of those shrouds, and don't want to buy one since I'm probably installing e-fan(s) in the coming weeks.

Yes, I believe you did. I think I figured out the lower hose, I'll know for sure tomorrow. As far as a shroud goes, I'm probably just going to see if I have cooling issues for now, and get an e-fan on there asap. Everything is closed in pretty good on these cars, so I doubt it'll have any issues...

Ordered one for a d150, and also one for a/b/e body with a 318/340/360 and a/c. Hopefully one of them will work

It is about 1/4in higher than original, I did that to make mounting easier, and because I wasn't happy with how close the lower hose was to the torsion bar with the original radiator(actually touching it). It does clear the hood, although the cap does hit what's left of the hood insulation...

Old thread, but figured it would be more useful than starting a new one. Just put a champion cc374b in my 5th. Just Needed to make some 2" wide aluminum plates to adapt it in. Cc374 might be easier, I didn't notice that there were 2 different part numbers on ebay when I ordered it.

I'm surprised at just how quiet my chrysler is with just the thrush welded on it. I was figuring on it being pretty obnoxious, it's really not. Still haven't driven it yet though. Been procrastinating doing the rear brake lines

Thanks! A salesman for one of my commercial accounts (ford dealer) got one of the brand new rangers with that turbo 4 cyl engine. After about a week of driving it, he got bored with it and came to me looking for a muffler he could clamp in there to make it louder. I talked him into a thrush...

It's an even funnier sound with a chambered style muffler. That "burble" (scientific term ) that boxers have sort of reverberates inside the chambers, it sounds very odd

Yup, same walker number too! 40235 if anyone was wondering. They're about $55 or so. all said and done, I've got like $100 into this exhaust. That's at the discounts I get through work though. For any guy off the street it'd be closer to $150. Still pretty cheap, there's also cheaper mufflers...

Just to update this, I built the new y pipe, modifying the dakota one was actually pretty easy. I made a thread in the projects section: Custom y-pipe diy (new substitute for the NLA canadian pipe?)

Napa probably gave you a metric filter instead of standard. Ford/mopar v8s both used the same filter back in the day. Purolator L14670, carquest 85085, mopar mo090. Ford switched to a metric thread filter that's the same size when they came out with the "modular" v8 in the 90s. Mopar kept the...

Next, you'll need another straight chunk of 2.5. if using the blue label shown above, it's most of the rest of the piece that was used ahead of the cross member. IIRC I cut like 3" off the remaining piece. Then you'll need the second one of that red label, as mentioned. This is to step around...

I added a v band flange after the hanger, so my exhaust can be easily removed, but that is totally optional. The factory was all one piece. Get it all welded up, and the y pipe is done, and can be installed. From here, it gets much easier

I ended up needing to do a piecut wedge on the passenger side, but with the exact right planning/cutting, this may have been avoidable. To get to the tranny-mounted hanger, you'll need the dogleg piece shown (red label, order 2 of these if building the rest of the exhaust, you'll need one...

The next part I didn't take enough photos of, because I got lost in doing the work. You want to start by getting the flared flange pieces bolted in place, so you can connect the rest to it. Get it all mocked up and tacked together, and confirm that everything fits like it should. On the...

The dakota pipe is much too tall, and has that woop-dee-doo in it for driveshaft clearance. Start by cutting this out, as shown. Save it, you need it for the other side. Cut the passenger side as shown. That dogleg looking piece you cut will become the offset on the passenger side for the center...

As we all know, the Canadian y-pipe used to be a great way to cat-delete an FMJ. Unfortunately, walker hasn't made any in a number of years. I set out to make my own, using off-the shelf stuff, modified as needed. Started with a stock replacement y pipe for a 99ish dakota with the 318. Dakotas...

Haven't driven it on these tires yet. Hopefully end of this week/beginning of next. Building my new y-pipe right now, I'm going to post a build thread of that after I finish it tomorrow. Replacing brake lines on it as well right now

My M-body is sitting on 275/60r15 rears on the stock 15x7 wheels. can fit my hand between tire and leaf springs, tire is about 3/8" from the chrome wheel well trim at full stuffed.

Forgot to update this thread this morning. I can just barely squeeze my whole hand in between in the front by the leaf spring. So I'd say that's ample clearance

I knew that, but didn't think about it. I was looking in the back. I'll check front clearance, but I suspect it's fine

Just a word of caution though. If your tire guy isn't someone that you know well, then he may lecture you about how a 15x7 is too narrow for a 275/60, since the manufacturers list a minimum rim width of 7.5. I bet that half of an inch makes a big difference in tire shape lol