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You're correct, it's an old GM (Holden) HEI module. I ditched the cheap distributor and went with a Pertronics unit. It's still acting up occasionally. At this point, my best assumption is that I'm losing my 12 volt primary feed to the coil. Gonna chase the wires down and see if I've got a...

Well, the saga continues, and I'd like your advice. It acted up again. I've gone through the entire fuel system again, including all carb adjustments. All good. I ordered a new ignition module, installed it, and it acted up again today, but the symptom changed a bit. Steady throttle, 3000 or so...

Well, I was wrong about it being “fixed”, as it acted up once again. I’ve finally found the real problem, which I apparently created myself, and have fixed it. I embarrass myself here in the hope that it helps someone in the community. I WAS RUNNING THE WRONG COIL! Anyone choosing to use a...

Fix O Rama! Ignition issue cleared up with a new (and complete) distributor cap. Still tinkering with timing and carb a little. Where do you guys normally run your initial timing advance? I’m running about 12 degrees right now.

Well, Charlie Brown strikes again!! Why do we always seem to overthink things??? The button that transfers spark from the inside of the cap to the rotor is GONE! It’s arcing from the spring to the rotor. That would probably explain issue ‍♂️ More next week, after the new cap and rotor!

All rubber fuel line sections replaced. Plugs show normal wear and ideal fuel mixture. Voltage regulator is solid with 14.5-15 volts at all times. I did have way too much timing in it. Reset timing to around 14 degrees at idle. It still does it. When it acted up in the past, because I thought it...

I’m still going back and forth between fuel and ignition issues, as I’ve never had an ignition issue before that “felt” like a fuel issue. I’m unfamiliar with the Procomp distributor that’s on it, but I understand they’re primarily Aussie designed units with a built in module. When it acts up...

I'm not a fan either. I've never (knock on wood) had an issue with Mom Mopar's Electronic Ignition, but I understand the new ones available today are cheaper than they used to be from a quality standpoint. The Procomp is a direct wire to the coil, and there is no ballast resistor.

Picked up an 80 Dobi last weekend for my Son. He's entering an Auto Mechanics class at the local Tech High School next year. It'll be perfect for him! 100,000 miles, 318, buckets/console car. Interior is baked from the sun, so plenty of unobtainium parts to find! Solid frame, a little rust...

Been awhile since I updated things. It's been a long, interesting year, getting the Red Baron to where I want her. Learned a lot, met a lot of new friends, and yes, cursed a lot too! Ive gone through everything, front to back, one at a time. Many weekends cleaning things up and replacing...

Beautiful Dippy! A long overdue WELCOME from a fellow 2 dr M body guy!

Need a little help here. 79 Lebaron, stock rebuild 360. Lean Burn delete. Running an Edelbrock AVS2 4 bbl on a stock intake (Motor and parts have maybe 2000 miles on them). The shop that did the engine swap (before my time) installed what I believe to ba a Procomp 7000 series distributor. It's...

I have a 79 M with a 904. Stupid question, but is it possible that if the lockdown linkage is adjusted incorrectly, it can cause the trans fluid to leak from the bell housing area? If an thing, I've got it "over-adjusted"

For right radius bends, I fill the line with fine play sand. It keeps the line from collapsing and is easily cleaned out after you make the bends.

I have an early 79 Lebaron, and just picked one up from Rock Auto. It looks perfect. Oddly enough, my tank is early 79, but the sending unit is late 79. Go figure ‍♂️

Late to the party here. Did you say the differential has been sold already?

Dude, that’s killer intel and a big help! Thank you! The earlier tank seems readily available, but not the sending unit. Found one on eBay that looks quite different than the one on RockAuto. Can I reuse my existing ring, or would you suggest I get an NOS ring? I haven’t dug into the project...

Hey guys. I've got a 79 Lebaron coupe, 318. Looking for a gas tank and sending unit. I've noticed that BOTH parts are different depending on build date. Mine is "prior to 4/2/79", and the sending unit seems scarce. Can anyone tell me what the differences are between "before" and "after" 4/2/79...

Well, after 7 weekends of tweaking and unrigging, I finally got out to my first Cars and Coffee cruise in this morning. I had the car purring, but had to screw with it, thinking I could get it better. It ran like Ass this morning. Got it squared away this afternoon, but it looks like I’m going...

I rebuilt the brakes last week, and got to pull all 4 wheels. Funny thing. I’ve got 3 non-slotted wheels and 1 slotted. And you are quite correct. The no slot wheel does have a wider lip around the edge!

To be fair, it does now have historic tags. That was the tag from my 2011 Genesis. Slapped it on the Lebaron just to take a couple short rides when I first got it. I’m in Hagerstown, MD. Not a native, but this is where I find myself these days.

I usually find them tucked under the rear seat springs. In the Lebaron, I found one between the thick trunk insulation and the carpet. It’s not uncommon to find more than one, as they were sometimes buried during one part or another of assembly.

Well, I have no intent on going that crazy! Just don't want to launch the car from a dead stop and wave goodbye to an impossible to replace glass T-Top! I had a 78 Chevy Monza that developed a pretty bad body crease just above the hatchback from the torque, so I'm a little nervous about it.

Awesome information here, thank you all! I'd like to expand the conversation a little. Subframe connectors are something I want to do regardless, just for the integrity of the car. But I have a 79 Lebaron 2 dr with T-Tops. I'm entertaining building a 360 stroker with a beefed 904 trans and...