2024 Project Log - Let There Be Traction

[Duke5A]

Going to be a light year budget wise. I've got other projects that have been waiting patiently for some TLC. The 5A is getting:

- Cal Track rear suspension
- Viking 16 way adjustable rear shocks
- Front 1.25" sway bar
- New power steering pump

Most of the way finished after almost 12 hours in the barn yesterday. I'll be running the car down the 1/4 this year.

 

[Duke5A]

Got the 1.25" FF front sway bar installed last night. Changing out the power steering pump at the same time I thought was empty made a computer fuck'n mess under the car. Go figure.

Some side-by-side shots of the old AHB front sway and the FF bar.

 

[Camtron]

Got the 1.25" FF front sway bar installed last night. Changing out the power steering pump at the same time I thought was empty made a computer fuck'n mess under the car. Go figure.

Some side-by-side shots of the old AHB front sway and the FF bar.

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Oh, there’s the beef.

 

[80mirada]

The FFI 1.25" sway bar is on my list of upgrades... probably before carpet.

 

[Duke5A]

The FFI 1.25" sway bar is on my list of upgrades... probably before carpet.

Order now then. Lead time on mine was nine weeks.

 

[Duke5A]

I'm trying to take care of all the small things now that added up to a huge pile. Cleaning up wiring and making brackets for said wiring mostly. One of the things to do was finish the LED changeover. I still had to do the instrument lights and front parking and signal lights.

Rears have been LED for a couple years now. I got away with using the old mechanical flasher because the front incandescent bulbs still provided enough load for it to function. Not anymore.

I had bought an electronic flashing unit and it never worked properly. Finally needed it so I looked it over again. Turns out this thing is polarity sensitive and the fuse block is reversed from how the flasher plugged in. I sure as well wasn't going to modify the fuse block for this, so I modified the flasher.

Ended up popping the case off and noticing an unused pin on the opposite side. So I moved the positive pin over and added a jumper wire. Works fine now and I was able to reassemble to case after flipping the bottom plastic over.

Hurray for small victories I suppose.

 

[Duke5A]

Plug wires since the big block swap have always been a mess. I had to have headers custom made and none of the routing options you get with the kits through Summit would work. Dad got a band saw and mill in the barn and has been looking for things to do. He went ham with it and made up these brackets to hold the wires. I'm blown away with how great it turned out.

Next up is rerouting the charge wire. Plan is to redesign the fender supports and add a cross brace in the front. Wire will follow the cross brace back to the battery rather than going along the firewall. I'll post up photos when that is done. Dealing with a bad o2 sensor right now.

Thanks Dad!

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Nice...so if I "order" a set today...how long will it be before they "ship"???

 

[Ark]

Plug wires since the big block swap have always been a mess. I had to have headers custom made and none of the routing options you get with the kits through Summit would work. Dad got a band saw and mill in the barn and has been looking for things to do. He went ham with it and made up these brackets to hold the wires. I'm blown away with how great it turned out.

Next up is rerouting the charge wire. Plan is to redesign the fender supports and add a cross brace in the front. Wire will follow the cross brace back to the battery rather than going along the firewall. I'll post up photos when that is done. Dealing with a bad o2 sensor right now.

Thanks Dad!

Heh...copycat...

I might recommend drilling some evenly spaced holes in the underside of the brace and using those push-in wire loom retainers for a cleaner install. I'm not super into my current zip tie experiment. Easier to drill those holes during fab and before paint than after it's in the car.

Also I don't think there's anything wrong with routing it through the header panel, except that you're not saving any distance versus circling the engine bay.

 

[Duke5A]

Heh...copycat...

I might recommend drilling some evenly spaced holes in the underside of the brace and using those push-in wire loom retainers for a cleaner install. I'm not super into my current zip tie experiment. Easier to drill those holes during fab and before paint than after it's in the car.

Also I don't think there's anything wrong with routing it through the header panel, except that you're not saving any distance versus circling the engine bay.

Imitation is the greatest form of flattery! That's the idea. I got the material. Going to use box tube.

 

[Duke5A]

Nice...so if I "order" a set today...how long will it be before they "ship"???

Dad's always talking about doing stuff like this as a side hustle. If you want something similar for a small block hit Dad up on messenger.