I picked up a 76 RoadRunner out of a cornfield in OK. Body is in good shape and solid. But at some point some one tried to convert it to a stick from Auto and to manual brakes.
First up was to pull the clutch / brake pedal assembly. Be aware there is a bolt that goes through the top of the brake pedal mounting plate that secures it to the dash above.
I had pulled a auto brake pedal setup from a car in the backyard.
After some wheedling I got that installed. But the brake pedal it self was missing. (Long story for another time). So I grab one out of a late 77 I had laying about.
The linkage in the 77 that connected the to the pedal looked like this:
The linkage I was using off a 78 looked like this:
Houston we have a problem.
So I needed to create some bushings. A tip. Go to your local reloading store (gun store) and buy up some ammo brass. Get all sorts of calibers. Works awesome for creating bushings. So I bushed the brake pedal and the linkage to an inner ID of a 7/16s bolt. Used some washers to fill the spacing gap between the pedal and the flat bar of the linkage. Cut and trimmed the 7/16s bolt so it stuck out about .5 on an inch and drilled a hole in it for a hitch pin.
Then using (I believe BudW) post on K car power booster swap I managed to find a 1/2 to 3/8s bushing at Ace that is used to connect the linkage to the K car booster. That went smoothly! Unfortunately, unlike the thread on the K car booster. My booster was not threaded all the way so it did not pull up tight. LOL. I go fishing for washers and space it out. Now that I got that fixed. I used NICopp (Nickle Copper mix) to create new brake lines from the MC to the proportioning valve. If you have to make hard brake lines look into NiCopp. Beats the heck out of working with steel lines.
So after all that I have a K car booster swap and will bleed the brakes as soon as I can get some help. Will update you all when I get the brakes bleed.
First up was to pull the clutch / brake pedal assembly. Be aware there is a bolt that goes through the top of the brake pedal mounting plate that secures it to the dash above.
I had pulled a auto brake pedal setup from a car in the backyard.
After some wheedling I got that installed. But the brake pedal it self was missing. (Long story for another time). So I grab one out of a late 77 I had laying about.
The linkage in the 77 that connected the to the pedal looked like this:
The linkage I was using off a 78 looked like this:
Houston we have a problem.
So I needed to create some bushings. A tip. Go to your local reloading store (gun store) and buy up some ammo brass. Get all sorts of calibers. Works awesome for creating bushings. So I bushed the brake pedal and the linkage to an inner ID of a 7/16s bolt. Used some washers to fill the spacing gap between the pedal and the flat bar of the linkage. Cut and trimmed the 7/16s bolt so it stuck out about .5 on an inch and drilled a hole in it for a hitch pin.
Then using (I believe BudW) post on K car power booster swap I managed to find a 1/2 to 3/8s bushing at Ace that is used to connect the linkage to the K car booster. That went smoothly! Unfortunately, unlike the thread on the K car booster. My booster was not threaded all the way so it did not pull up tight. LOL. I go fishing for washers and space it out. Now that I got that fixed. I used NICopp (Nickle Copper mix) to create new brake lines from the MC to the proportioning valve. If you have to make hard brake lines look into NiCopp. Beats the heck out of working with steel lines.
So after all that I have a K car booster swap and will bleed the brakes as soon as I can get some help. Will update you all when I get the brakes bleed.
