Automatic transmisson cooler

I use the factory police car set-up. I'm not sure how well it works, but I figure the engineers did.
 
I run a B&M stack plate cooler. Plate coolers are better, I run the biggest one they have, 11x11. I can check into size if you want, also in my Mirada can post a pic if you want also. It works great though. Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
tim berry said:
I run a hughes cooler with the a/n fittings works real well, i think it's 11x 8
Click to expand...
I did the same thing with an fittings, they work great. There are a lot of things to consider when deciding on size. For one cope racing transmissions recommended that I run a separate cooler, and that its best to not run it through radiator at all. I also went with a 3500 stall converter so I knew it would be making more heat. And finally at the time I did mine I was having cooling issues, therefore I wanted a big one to keep heat transfer down. So really it comes down to what parts you already have and what your intended use for the car is, mine is strip/street with the emphasis on strip.
 
For street use, having the transmission operate at a set temperature is preferred. Factories use the radiator to A) heat transmission fluid up faster, and B) to cool it down under heavy usage.

The automatic transmission valve body operates as an hydraulic computer - but needs a constant flow for it to do its job. Cold or hot transmission fluid flow at different rates (viscosity).

The only thing that really generates any heat, is the torque converter and it only does that under stall conditions. The bearings and bushings need fluid, but don’t really generate any heat.

For racing, I won’t dispute not using the radiator as a cooling mechanism.
For heavy duty street use, I would recommend using the radiator, plus a helper (external).

My opinion,
BudW
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top