Clueless with Electrical Wire Gauge

[Justwondering]

Okay, I'll admit I am not knowledgeable about reading wiring diagrams.
Yes, I have the manual.
Yes, I have the car.

I bought some 20AWG wire and just as I was about to use it I decided it was visually not matching -- too small.
So, here we go.

I have rats that chewed the wiring.
I want to replace the problem area. Requires either running a new replacement wire or using some solder/heat shrink/replace the connector plus enough wire to bridge the gap created by the rat.

Here are the two pages from the manual with the main problem area identified as examples.
How do I know what the gauge wire should be?
I found the color code legend earlier in the manual, but I missed the explanation for the wiring gauge.


JW

 

[Mikes5thAve]

The number at the end is the guage. First pic you squared at starter relay. 14BR is 14 guage brown wire. At the battery 10 black etc.

 

[69-]

The following applies:

A1 12R
-> A1 is the circuit code, to easily identify the same circuit on many pages
-> 12R is 12 AWG, Color red

Other example: DS2 18Y
-> Circuit identifier DS2
-> 18Y is 18 AWG, Color yellow

So the first part is to identify on the wiring schematic, the second part is actual AWG plus Color (on some page upfront the color coding is explained)

20 AWG is quite thin.

 

[Aspen500]

If you're not aware, the higher the number, the smaller the wire. Always seemed backwards to me but, what do I know?

It's OK to, for example, use 14 guage to replace 16 guage, but not vice versa.

 

[Justwondering]

Well then.... I have plenty of 20AWG to use on some other project.

Looks like I need 16AWG, 14AWG, and 12AWG... ergo, I am not properly supplied to go further.
Gives me time to practice my soldering, I guess.

Thanks everyone.

JW

 

[69-]

Please do not solder in an automotive connection. (cold solder joints are one of the most common problems in modern automotive computerized technology). And it's quite easy to create a cold solder joint.

Use wire crimping the proper way.

Soldering is quite weak and especially prone to failure if not properly fixed (i.e. if the joint can move/bent).

 

[Justwondering]

Please do not solder in an automotive connection. (cold solder joints are one of the most common problems in modern automotive computerized technology). And it's quite easy to create a cold solder joint.

Use wire crimping the proper way.

Soldering is quite weak and especially prone to failure if not properly fixed (i.e. if the joint can move/bent).

really? No Solder.
I assumed that if NASA used it on the space shuttle, it would be okay if done correctly on automotive.
Now I've read 2 dozen articles on automotive wiring repair and its about 50-50 on to solder or not to solder.

Ugh...maybe I should invest in a much better crimping tool. I have so little hand strength I figured the solder would be better for me to accomplish properly. Hmmm

Well, I need to keep researching.
JW

 

[69-]

I'd guess NASA could do it differently to what all of us could do in our workshops....

A good crimp tool is key for good connections. After spending years with cheap toy-tools, I switched to buying proper tools and - ta-daa, less problems, good crimping.

I use a Weitkowitz crimping pliers (don't know if that's available in the US, though, TE has some good certi-crimp tools). And also, spend a few more bucks on the crimp connectors. Cheap chinese crap is everywhere...

Use this (Certi-Crimp, F-Crimp, or Open Barrel crimp):

Here's some advice (have not read all):
VW Baywindow Bus - Wiring Harness Terminals

How to Crimp Open Barrel Terminals

I have no idea about it's quality:
225pc Delphi Weather Pack Terminal Ratcheting Crimping Tool & Connector Kit 767870179921 | eBay

And I'd also suggest not to use the cheaper crimp things:
Don't use this:

Cables easily slip out of such connectors....

 

[69-]

But maybe that's just my "German engineering love" and I'm a little over the top here. I found so many (bad) splices and cut-through-splices in my camper (many, many failure points - which is no way to camp; you now the woman's acceptance factor? ).

But at the end: Chrysler used the same F-crimp even in my 60's cars...

 

[Justwondering]

I'm beginning to fall into the crimping side of the equation if I buy a decent crimping tool.
I just went down to check my electric tool box and there are no pliers of any type (cutting, crimping, etc.)
So....
I started checking the horde in my husband's greenhouse.
Voila' .... there are 2 sets of crimping tools - both now rusted.

(Sigh). Lovely man, but jeeze he has not got the 'keep the tools in a dry place' gene.

JW

 

[Justwondering]

Game plan is to get the 3 different sizes of wire ordered.
Then , spend time tonight getting an idea which crimper to get as well as the crimp connectors.
Order that.
Get my circuits identified.
Then take this one thing at a time.
JW

 

[Mikes5thAve]

With not much hand strength see if you can find a ratcheting crimp tool. There on amazon and home depot might have them. The crimper I have isn't name brand but works well, some don't.

Solder is ok if you are repairing wiring. There should be a diagram in the service manual showing how to do it. End terminals are better to crimp.

I thought NASA was crimp. Aviation also is.

 

[Duke5A]

I think @69- and I have gone rounds with this topic before. There is nothing wrong with soldering connections on these cars. 25 years I've been doing this and never had a failure from one of my jobs. You don't need to buy an expensive crimp set. We're not going to the moon. Stripe the wire, tin it, melt it together and shrink tube it.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

No matter what way it's done the most important thing is that it's solid.

I prefer crimping because it's easier if you're doing something on the car in an area it's hard to work in. But not done right those crimp on ends are easy for the wire to pull out of. Same as if it's not done right the soldered end can crack if the terminal gets manhandled too much.

 

[kkritsilas]

In general, avoid using solder joints where vibration is/may be present. Solder joints are an electrical connection, not a mechanical one. Solder joints CANNOT be relied upon where mechanical stress is present because they will fracture under mechanical stress due to having no flexibility. NASA generally doesn't rely on soldered wire connections, the military doesn't rely on soldered wire connections, aviation doesn't rely on soldered wire connections, and neither does the automotive industry. The entire automotive industry has now moved to crimped wire connections for a reason (i.e. reliability). There are literally hundreds of papers on why solder joints fracture, with analysis on different solder types to avoid that fracturing phenomenon, but the end result is that solder joints will fracture under mechanical stress, and vibration is mechanical stress. Solder must be used on printed circuit boards by necessity (there is no other method in general use), but even there, solder fracturing occurs.

Get a ratcheting crimping tool. Not crimping pliers, as they do not make a reliable crimp. After a proper crimp, the place at which the crimp was made should be flat and pretty much the entire width of the terminal. Anything that makes a crimp that is pointed, or curved is NOT a proper crimp, and will also have a potential for failure. With crimping pliers, there is also the variable of how hard the crimp is made, which a ratcheting crimp tool eliminates (if you have crimped hard enough, the tool releases; if you haven't, the tool won't release, and you will have to crimp down harder until the tool releases). For open barrel (pin type) crimps, there are proper crimping tools that fold the edges of the terminal inward, again forming a reliable crimp joint. Note also, that crimping tools for insulated and non-insulated terminal are not necessarily the same, and you may need either a separate tool for insulated and non-insulated terminals, or one in which the tool can accept different dies.

High quality crimp terminals are a must as well. Good quality crimp terminals are made in such a way that the metal in the terminal will cold flow around a wire, and as hard as it may seem to believe, within the crimp itself, will not allow the wire to corrode. Poor quality terminals, meaning somebody cheaped out on the metal in the terminal, will not cold flow properly/as well, and will not completely enclose the wire, allowing for corrosion, and by extension, crimps that are not reliable over time.

 

[69-]

Wow, what a response Sorry for thoroughly stirring the pot.

And I need to admit, that I did solder wires in a car myself.

To avoid the vibration/bending issue (and that's a point of failure you'll never remember later on), I drilled both cables tighly together for about 1/2 inch (before soldering) and put a nail inside the shrink tube around it.

And for the open barrel crimp terminals. They are un-insulated, but small plastic tubes are availble (if it's not a replacement inside a plastic connector).

 

[Justwondering]

I'm thinking my main focus is 1) buy the correct gauge of wire and 2) get a ratcheting crimper!

More after the new items arrive.

I do appreciate the diverse views, but I really do appreciate learning how to read the electrical diagram.

JW