how to remove 8 1/4 diferential cross shaft bolt

ZieglerSpeed

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is the bolt locktited? Will a propane torch on the head of the bolt do the trick? Do I need acetylene torch to the head of the bolt? (bolt is 7/16 wrench size). Thanks for any tips, -Tim Z
 
The thread locker would need only a small amount of heat to melt and release. Just heat the head of the bolt, a propane torch would be enough heat. I use that method all the time at work on things like brake caliper bracket bolt that are factory loc-tited. There is one form of locker that requires heat to remove.
BTW, heating the head of the bolt works even if it doesn't have Loc-Tite. It expands the end of the bolt just enough to break the friction between the bolt head and part. Honda crank balancer bolts are an example. They always seem to be welded in place, but 30 seconds with an oxy-acetelene torch and it spins right out.
 
Just thinking as a last resort, weld a cheap or junk wrench to the bolt head. The heat from the weld and the wrench not slipping will get it out. Smack the wrench with a hammer to break it loose.
 
77, your welded wrench idea was my next resort. That would work. Ok, my 84 318 2wd Prospector is non posi 8 1/4. 2 rear end tags. 29 or 2.9 and the other tag says 3553. Driveshaft turns 2.9 times for tire to turn 2 times. ONE TIRE IS NOT TURNING -so I think I have 2.9 gears eeh?
 
2.94's, thanks Aspen. In those days before overdrive if your stayin in the city 3.55, if your freeway flyin its 2.94 or 3.21 for all around. I'm goin freeway flyin and would like 19 mpg. so 2.94 is good
 
The cross shaft bolt was super tight on my 8.25. I ended up using my tightest fitting box end wrench and tapping it with a hammer until it broke free. This worked for me after a lot of tapping. Heat was my next plan. Blue loctite only needs 300-400F to melt so that seemed comfortable if needed.
 
What twali40 said, is what I do.
Get a box end wrench and then bop it with a 2 (or 3) pound sledge.
BudW
 
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