Is the 904 trans kickdown specific to the M body? or to the carb/trans combo?

8v-of-fury

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I swapped out my 2bbl and lean burn for a 4bbl and edelbrock intake last year, but ever since I have been having poor transmission response. And apparently the kick down lever is more sensitive than I originally thought it to be.

I know it needs to be lenghthened, but I am wondering, do I find an entire 4bbl setup.. modify this one to work properly (cut and weld.. no big deal), or is there a "lokar" cable setup I can use that will get the job done?

I see there are some cables, what do I need though? 4bbl and a 904? A rare'er' combination no? Most 4bbls were not 318's and 904's but 360's or bigger and 727's.

I would love your input on the matter please! :) Cross posted to the M body section.
 

Aspen500

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I'd recommend the cable kit from Bouchillon. That's what I've got on my car and it works perfectly.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/6807/589

Hard to see but here's a couple pics of it installed. Only thing I did was fab a bracket for the front of the return spring so it's level and not at an angle. My kit is from the late '90's so they may have changed some things a little since then.

Not sure if they ever got their online ordering operational. I've always called to order stuff from them. Good people down there!

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slant6billy

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I am really fascinated by the transmission to carb operation. The Bouchillon anchors opposite to the throttle cable. So the throttle cable pulls towards the firewall while the trans cable goes towards the radiator. Not sure about the Lokar, but I've seen a few mopars with the "Opposite" direction used when the trans has a reverse valve body. Again, I don't know if it is right wrong or otherwise? I'm still tweek'n my trans linkage, but that's part of the education. I've got 2 different carb link rods and a few other components that vary. The trial and error makes for interesting test data
 

8v-of-fury

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I was told by a member on the FABO sister site (sorry, they just have more members to get answers from.. LOL) that me moving the throttle cable bracket back a set of intake manifold bolts to clear my massive thermoquad was a no no and has ruined the whole kickdown geometry. I do not feel this is true however. If you look at this picture, moving the throttle bracket backwards on the same plane would only, if anything, shorten the vertical kickdown rod minimally as it pivots in the upper and lower bracket.

kickdown2.jpg


ps. I am in no way calling out the member for being wrong, I am merely sharing ideas to get thoughts generated..
 

8v-of-fury

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What are the performance issues you're having?

No performance! That's the issue! LOLOL The upshifts are way too early, and the part throttle kickdown does not function. Nor does normal kickdown out of lockup or the 3-2 downshift.

I have a drawing of how to convert the twobarrel kickdown to a four barrel kickdown. I will look for it tonight.

I have it more or less where I think it needs to be, i just need to lengthen the upper rod from the pivot point on the bracket to the carb linkage.. and then setup the piece down at the carb.

I would still absolutely appreciate the information you have please :D
 

8v-of-fury

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The issue for my setup was not the upper rod, but the placement of the bracket that holds the throttle cable and the kick-down itself. It was too far forward towards the radiator to clear the side of the massive TQ.
 

bremereric

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WOT means the kickdown on the tranny should be all the way towards the back of the car. X2 to the cable shifter from Bouchillon. Aspen 500 needs a little thread sealant on your intake bolts.
 

Aspen500

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WOT means the kickdown on the tranny should be all the way towards the back of the car. X2 to the cable shifter from Bouchillon. Aspen 500 needs a little thread sealant on your intake bolts.

I have sealant on the intake bolts. I think that schmutz came from the carb somehow. Odd, can only see it in a flash photo. In person it looks like nothing is there.
 

8v-of-fury

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Yes, WOT sohuld be all the way back I understand. It is not the WOT that is the issue really.. As the car very rarely sees WOT. There is no such performance in the higher RPMS with all the smog equipment pulling it down and farting through a crushed 2" drinking straw for an exhaust.. LOL!

I will be with the car again in 2 weeks (4500kms away) and I will hopefully get it all squared away then, I'll let you guys know what I do to modify the current setup or if I have to find other parts. ie. Lokar or factory 4bbl.
 

aspen77rt

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I'd recommend the cable kit from Bouchillon. That's what I've got on my car and it works perfectly.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/6807/589

Hard to see but here's a couple pics of it installed. Only thing I did was fab a bracket for the front of the return spring so it's level and not at an angle. My kit is from the late '90's so they may have changed some things a little since then.

Not sure if they ever got their online ordering operational. I've always called to order stuff from them. Good people down there!

+2

Great kit. Great guys to deal with. Got it on the mirada.

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8v-of-fury

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Forgive what it looks like, I didn't take any "after" pictures as I was rebuilding the carb fixing this linkage and then driving the car 45 minutes to somewhere else! lol

Cut it off, add 1 5/8" of flat bar, give it a little bend in the vice and flip it over and it works just as good as it is supposed to. It sits fully extended forward at idle and is allowed to reach WOT should the throttle ever make it that far open (it doesn't lol). I moved the bracket back a set of intake manifold bolts when I did the 4bbl swap to clear the massive Thermoquad.

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