Mopar electronic ignition brain twister...absolutely stumped with this problem

[grandpas_car]

Long time reader, first time posting. I am getting to the point where I am feeling clueless on my project and desperately need some ideas/advice.
The quick backstory:
I am working on a bone stock 1989 Chrysler Fifth Avenue with a 318 which back in March started suffering ignition problems. The spark was intermittently falling out and long story short I got pissed off when the first reman spark control module I bought was no good out of the box, and the second one actually made the car run even worse than the original SCM, so I decided to make the conversion to Mopar's electronic ignition. I didn't want to have issues with state inspections so my goal was to first try and convert the ignition system only, while leaving the SCM connected to handle controlling all the original emissions junk, and even the feedback carburetor. Since Mopar doesn't offer the electronic ignition kit anymore, I bought mine from Proform P/N 440-426. This kit included a new distributor, ignition control module, connector pigtail, and a ballast resistor. I have a true Chrysler 1989 service manual for reference, so looking into the wiring schematics made me realize it is actually quite simple on this car. All I did was snag my 12 volts for the ICM from the dark blue key on 12V source that is the primary feed for a bunch of other things on that car, I cut the black wire which originally went from the SCM to the negative side of the coil and connected it directly to the ICM, and then I cut the two pickup wires and spliced them into the ICM. This car never had a ballast resistor so this is all the wiring I had to do. I called Proform just to verify that I can run their ICM without the ballast resistor ands they quickly said yes no problem. I bolted the ICM to the firewall and a ground strap behind one of the bolts, fired the engine up and the car started right away. Did some adjusting on the timing and it wasn't long before the car was running great. The intermittent spark dropping out problem was now gone! On top of that, the SCM was still controlling everything it used to, even the feedback fuel metering in the carburetor. This was my main worry at the time with doing the conversion. Anyhow, fast forward 4.5 months...

The other day the key was left on and drained the battery. Keep in mind that the car has run great without a single hiccup up until this point. Well, after charging the battery, the car wont start! The engine was cranking over fine but wouldn't hit a lick. Put a spark tester inline and quickly realized I had no spark. I pulled out a test light and checked the coil for voltage. With the key on, the test light was lit on the positive side of the coil and the negative side, as usual, but the test light would not flash while on the negative terminal and cranking the engine. That told me the coil was not being triggered. I got a meter and tested the voltage on the coil. 11.75V key on, 10.5V cranking. I pulled the negative wire off the coil and disconnected the coil wire from the distibutor. With a test lead on the negative side of the coil and the coil wire held close to a ground, I smacked my test lead against a solid ground and this fired the coil with a nice blue spark and a big gap. Coil is good. I started thinking about the pickup even though they dont give much problems. Pickup measures 400 ohms, and generates 280-320 mV AC voltage while cranking. I tested this at the two pin connector at the distributor, and the 4 pin connector on the ICM. My measurements had the same values. I tested voltage to the ICM. 11.7V key on, 10.45 cranking. The ground strap connection for the ICM measures 0.0-0.1 ohms and 350mV drop under load while cranking. Okay, obviously the ICM had given up, right? So i go to the local parts house and buy a Standard branded 4 pin ICM to replace the orange one from Proform. The coil still wont produce any spark! Could the new ICM have an issue straight out of the box? Stranger things have happened. I swap it out at the local parts house and install a new one on the car and sure as the world, still no spark! At this point, I am puzzled, because this is a really simple and straight forward system. I find it hard to believe that all those modules are no good, so just for kicks I swap the coil for another known good one. No spark. I used a free distributor with a known good pickup, plugged it in and spun the shaft by hand. No spark. I swap the coil wire for a new one I had handy. No spark. I started to wonder if maybe there was an issue with the connection from the ICM to the coil negative, but it rings fine with a meter and read 0 ohms. At this point I have run out of ideas and figure I better retrace my footsteps, so I go back to square one and go through it all again and check everything. Every single bit checks out and the stage is set for the coil to fire but it just wont fire at all while cranking! I have tried everything normal, and everything abnormal that I can think of and I just cannot seem to figure out what is going on. I am at my wits end and really need some help and ideas. Has anyone encountered this before? Can anyone think of something I am missing or something else to check? I am absolutely clueless at this point. Any help will be appreciated!

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

I just did this swap on the exact same car only a month or so ago. Except I removed the leanburn entirely and replaced the carb with non feedback version. So our wiring and whatnot will be a bit different and I can't speak on it as I'm not sure what exactly goes where for what you did. (Ex-my coil wires go to ballast then to coil) And I was told to either fix the original LB system, or swap to electronic but running together was never mentioned. Be forewarned I am still very much learning myself, but hopefully I can give some ideas.

That said my first thoughts here are the scm as you call it. Or as most on here seem to call it the LB computer.
Being that it wasn't happening before the dead batt and recharge it leads me to believe something happened during the recharge. Like a backfeed somehow that may have blown something, like a fuse or resistor in the SCM. Have you tried swapping to one of those reman computers you had by chance, even if it still won't start it might act different with a different SCM.

Only other things I can think of are to check fuses, I don't think there are any fuses that would cause this but you never know.

And how much wire length did you use to run all these connections? This is a least likely scenario but be a broken wire and the insulation is hiding it....

Last thing that comes to mind is the 4 pin ECU connector. Different brand kit but on mine it was extremely difficult to plug in, just very tight and I had to literally use a square head screwdriver and a hammer to tap it in securely. Maybe an issue with that connector. Apologies if you have already tried any of this.

 

[Ele115]

Test the pickup coil. It will come down to the Pickup or ICM. Either will cause that. You should have flicker, and it should be bright.

With the key on, unplug the distributor pickup. Ground a test light. Unplug the coil wire at the cap and put your favorite spark tester on the end of it. Male pin of the harness side of the distributor, Tap it with the test light. If it sparks, focus on the pickup coil. If you can make it spark, you are doing the work the pickup is supposed to be doing. If no spark, try another box. And bypass the resistor until you have it running.

"This kit included a new distributor, ignition control module, connector pigtail, and a ballast resistor. " New parts. China. Doesn't matter where you buy them. Hate to say it but.....

 

[grandpas_car]

I just did this swap on the exact same car only a month or so ago. Except I removed the leanburn entirely and replaced the carb with non feedback version. So our wiring and whatnot will be a bit different and I can't speak on it as I'm not sure what exactly goes where for what you did. (Ex-my coil wires go to ballast then to coil) And I was told to either fix the original LB system, or swap to electronic but running together was never mentioned. Be forewarned I am still very much learning myself, but hopefully I can give some ideas.

That said my first thoughts here are the scm as you call it. Or as most on here seem to call it the LB computer.
Being that it wasn't happening before the dead batt and recharge it leads me to believe something happened during the recharge. Like a backfeed somehow that may have blown something, like a fuse or resistor in the SCM. Have you tried swapping to one of those reman computers you had by chance, even if it still won't start it might act different with a different SCM.

Only other things I can think of are to check fuses, I don't think there are any fuses that would cause this but you never know.

And how much wire length did you use to run all these connections? This is a least likely scenario but be a broken wire and the insulation is hiding it....

Last thing that comes to mind is the 4 pin ECU connector. Different brand kit but on mine it was extremely difficult to plug in, just very tight and I had to literally use a square head screwdriver and a hammer to tap it in securely. Maybe an issue with that connector. Apologies if you have already tried any of this.

Thank you for the reply and trying to help me out. Spoiler alert…I finally discovered what the problem was! I will describe it with hopes that it may help someone else out in the future.

You mentioned the connector, and that is actually where I started to believe the problem was lying, because everything else on the car checked out. To verify that I actually had good working parts, I performed a bench test, with just a battery, coil, coil wire, spark tester, new ignition control module, and a spare distributor for the pickup signal. I made up some jumper wires with ferrules crimped on the ends that I could slide over the ICM terminal pins. With a new module, this set up fired hot. I now tested the original Orange ICM from my Proform kit, and no spark. This was confusing because I had at this point tried 2 new modules and neither would fire the coil on the car. Knowing that I had my hands on a good module, I hooked it up to the car with my jumper wires with intentions to eliminate any possible connection issue with the connector itself. Keep in mind that I had been using the original oil leaking Mopar 4176009 coil that came off that car for my bench test, and was relying on the Standard Blue Streak UC16 that I just installed on that car back in February of this year. Well, I connected my loose distributor from the bench test so I could spin the pickup by hand, and I hooked up the ICM and turned the key power on. I spun the distributor…no spark. One thing I noticed was I heard an audible 2 or 3 click sounds that came from the somewhere nearby the ICM but I wasn’t exactly sure where it came from. Frustrated, I pulled the battery cables off and set my bench test up on the car using all the same known good parts from my previous bench test. No spark! Somehow I just stood right there and fried the new ICM, but I had no idea why and figured those clicking sounds I heard earlier were related.

I went home for the time being and started doing more research on mopar forums, trying to figure out what on that car could fry that module instantly. Thankfully, I read a comment on another Mopar forum which made so much sense and made me wonder why I hadn’t thought of this before…the comment mentioned checking the ignition coil for an internal short. I thought to myself of course that’s a possibility you idiot! When the pickup triggers the ICM and the ICM fires the coil by providing the ground, if the coil is shorted inside, as soon as the ICM fires it, way too much current could flow through it. At this point I’m excited because that’s the only lead I had.

I drive back to where the car is parked at and check the coil’s primary winding resistance of the original Mopar 4176009 that I had used for my bench test and I measure 1.4 ohms (the secondary winding is irrelevant to the ICM circuit in this particular scenario because current only flows through primary winding when the ICM fires the ignition coil). 12V/1.4ohms=8.6 amps. Okay, this seems reasonable for the ignition system. I then measured the primary resistance of the 5ish month old Blue Streak coil… 0.1ohms! It was as close to a dead short as it gets! 12V/0.1ohms=120amps. I felt like an idiot for this because I popped a couple brand new ICMs just being oblivious to coil being shorted. I warrantied the Blue Streak coil and replaced the ICM, installed them on the car and turned the key. The car fired right off and has been running again since.

One thing I’m unsure of is how draining the battery by leaving the key on is related to this happening…with electronic ignition, no current flows through the coil with the key on, unlike a points system if a contact happens to be closed where the engine finally came to a stop from the last run cycle. The only thing I can imagine is that as the battery voltage went down, the ICM got hot from current flowing through it just from the key on source, then the ICM failed in such a way that it started drawing current through the coil, then the coil got hot and created a short in the windings. I’m not sure how I would ever verify this, but it is the only way I can imagine that happened. Hopefully this was just a freak thing though, because everyone accidentally drains their battery sometime or another. The ICM shouldn’t fail from this in my opinion. Time will tell, but I for sure learned a lesson here. If you have a module failure, check that coil’s primary winding resistance before you plug in a new module!

 

[grandpas_car]

I just did this swap on the exact same car only a month or so ago. Except I removed the leanburn entirely and replaced the carb with non feedback version. So our wiring and whatnot will be a bit different and I can't speak on it as I'm not sure what exactly goes where for what you did. (Ex-my coil wires go to ballast then to coil) And I was told to either fix the original LB system, or swap to electronic but running together was never mentioned. Be forewarned I am still very much learning myself, but hopefully I can give some ideas.

That said my first thoughts here are the scm as you call it. Or as most on here seem to call it the LB computer.
Being that it wasn't happening before the dead batt and recharge it leads me to believe something happened during the recharge. Like a backfeed somehow that may have blown something, like a fuse or resistor in the SCM. Have you tried swapping to one of those reman computers you had by chance, even if it still won't start it might act different with a different SCM.

Only other things I can think of are to check fuses, I don't think there are any fuses that would cause this but you never know.

And how much wire length did you use to run all these connections? This is a least likely scenario but be a broken wire and the insulation is hiding it....

Last thing that comes to mind is the 4 pin ECU connector. Different brand kit but on mine it was extremely difficult to plug in, just very tight and I had to literally use a square head screwdriver and a hammer to tap it in securely. Maybe an issue with that connector. Apologies if you have already tried any of this.

Figured I’d make a separate reply for a couple things I want to say about your comments which are unrelated to my explanation of what fixed the car I was working on. What is the reason you installed a ballast resistor? Did your car originally have one? This Fifth Avenue I was working on is an ‘89 model and never had a ballast. The run and start circuit for the coil are fed by the same source and the coil factory to that car is meant for full 12V. I called the people at Proform just to verify their Module would be okay with a full 12V coil all the time and they said yes absolutely. So I didn’t bother with a ballast resistor, the key circuit isn’t designed for it anyways.

The connector for the ICM in my kit was also very stiff. I heated it with a heat gun and that made it pliable enough to slide right on.

Thank you again for your suggestions

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

I'm using the UC16 as well, uh oh. I'll be keeping an eye out for sure.
Honestly, I got my kit through mancini racing due to another member saying it's the best kit he is aware of. I followed the instructions sheet given for when removing the lean burn, that's all lol
Glad you got it sorted out though, and no problem.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

However that now makes me wonder. I've been chasing a gremlin for weeks that I thought was a vac leak or carb not tuned right..or leaking carb, car starts, runs and drives ok. It doesn't seem like it's having any ignition issues. But I wonder if that ballast may be causing something....

 

[grandpas_car]

Test the pickup coil. It will come down to the Pickup or ICM. Either will cause that. You should have flicker, and it should be bright.

With the key on, unplug the distributor pickup. Ground a test light. Unplug the coil wire at the cap and put your favorite spark tester on the end of it. Male pin of the harness side of the distributor, Tap it with the test light. If it sparks, focus on the pickup coil. If you can make it spark, you are doing the work the pickup is supposed to be doing. If no spark, try another box. And bypass the resistor until you have it running.

"This kit included a new distributor, ignition control module, connector pigtail, and a ballast resistor. " New parts. China. Doesn't matter where you buy them. Hate to say it but.....

I don’t think I follow what you’re saying about testing the coil. How would momentarily grounding the male pin of the pickup connector with a test light fire the coil? I understand that the magnetic pickup sends a small AC voltage to the ICM as the reluctor passes by the pickup, so I’m not sure how grounding the male pin would also trigger the ICM…

I actually did perform a coil test back when I was troubleshooting, but I just removed the negative side wire off the coil and figured I’d ground it similar to the way the ICM does. I had a jumper wire tied to the negative post on the coil and took the other end and smacked it against a good ground. This did produce a spark on both ignition coils.

I have to agree with you about parts from China. I hate it and avoid it every chance I get. Manufacturing in this country has become extremely disappointing. Buying from China only boosts their economy and craps on ours. How long until people realize that buying Chinese made junk only lines with money the pockets of these ultra rich corporations, and takes away money making opportunities in manufacturing from the working folks in the USA.

 

[grandpas_car]

However that now makes me wonder. I've been chasing a gremlin for weeks that I thought was a vac leak or carb not tuned right..or leaking carb, car starts, runs and drives ok. It doesn't seem like it's having any ignition issues. But I wonder if that ballast may be causing something....

If you look in Standard’s catalog, the UC16 is specifically listed as a direct replacement for multiple OEM part numbers, 4176009 being one of them. If you’re using a ballast resistor with that coil, your spark is weak while in run.

You may want to do some of your own research but that’s exactly what it sounds like to me

 

[Mikes5thAve]

If you look in Standard’s catalog, the UC16 is specifically listed as a direct replacement for multiple OEM part numbers, 4176009 being one of them. If you’re using a ballast resistor with that coil, your spark is weak while in run.

You may want to do some of your own research but that’s exactly what it sounds like to me

There are multiple applications for that UC16 coil that also use a ballast resistor.

 

[grandpas_car]

There are multiple applications for that UC16 coil that also use a ballast resistor.

Why would anyone want to run a ballast resistor for an ignition coil for electronic ignition?

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Why would anyone want to run a ballast resistor for an ignition coil for electronic ignition?

Dunno. I'm just saying there are applications listed for it that require a ballast resistor.

Simple enough to test either way and if the coil says 12V on it it doesn't need the resistor.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Why would anyone want to run a ballast resistor for an ignition coil for electronic ignition?

I'm sorry, I had no intention of highjacking the thread.
Anyways hopefully this photo is legible. This is the exact instruction sheet that I was given with my kit. I just followed it to the letter. I know the car did not come originally equipped with an external ballast. Instruction sheet does not have a section that mentions anything to do with the ballast not originally being equipped. And again it's for full removal of the LB, not running in tandem with. First time doing this type of install.

 

[Ele115]

If you don't want the lean burn, I would recommend getting rid of it all. How I have done them in the past is use a 1970's electronic dist. Rebuild it using OLD OEM parts. A ICM same thing, OLD NOS or a name brand that was made a long time ago and sat on someone's shelf. Coil and harness are easy to buy, make sure to get the resistor that matches the coil, or you can run something that doesn't use a resistor. Replace the carburetor with a non Lean Burn regular old carb. All I do is put a 1975-ish stock ignition system in place and that's that. I do go after really old new parts from the 70's or 80's. That will really cut down on reliability issues. No Amazon, Summit, parts store stuff for me. I am not into break downs

 

[grandpas_car]

I'm sorry, I had no intention of highjacking the thread.
Anyways hopefully this photo is legible. This is the exact instruction sheet that I was given with my kit. I just followed it to the letter. I know the car did not come originally equipped with an external ballast. Instruction sheet does not have a section that mentions anything to do with the ballast not originally being equipped. And again it's for full removal of the LB, not running in tandem with. First time doing this type of install.

View attachment 53847

No problem! My car is fixed, so at this point we’re just discussing and maybe can hash out a potential issue with your car, or help out someone else in the future with similar issues.

Unfortunately, I really can’t read that instruction sheet because the picture is too grainy. Can you post it a different way?

I’m confused on how you wired up a ballast resistor with the factory key switch. What year model is your car? The ‘89 that I was working on does not have two separate start and run circuits in the key switch. The start and run feed 12V to the coil from the same source. (EDIT due to poor choice of words: since we have been only discussing ignition coils I made a misleading statement. Of COURSE the ignition key switch has a start circuit, and a run circuit, which are both independent and have separate responsibilities. I recall from the wiring schematics that the start circuit, and the run circuit, both feed the coil 12V through the same 14 ga dark blue wire. No provisions in the factory wire harness for a firewall mounted ballast.) It would be unnecessarily complicated to add a ballast with that factory key switch and wiring. I never looked into that because there was no purpose in using a ballast on the ‘89. The factory coil and ICM for that car will withstand full voltage while the engine is running so a ballast is only going to limit the ignition power potential.

Does a ballast resistor make a noticeable difference in power output on a bone stock low compression smogged out LA 318 engine from ‘89? That I do not know for sure

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

No problem! My car is fixed, so at this point we’re just discussing and maybe can hash out a potential issue with your car, or help out someone else in the future with similar issues.

Unfortunately, I really can’t read that instruction sheet because the picture is too grainy. Can you post it a different way?

I’m confused on how you wired up a ballast resistor with the factory key switch. What year model is your car? The ‘89 that I was working on does not have two separate start and run circuits in the key switch. The start and run feed 12V to the coil from the same source. It would be complicated to add a ballast if it all possible with that factory key switch. I never looked into that because there was no purpose in using a ballast on the ‘89. The factory coil and ICM for that car will withstand full voltage while the engine is running so a ballast is only going to limit the ignition power potential.

Does a ballast resistor make a noticeable difference in power output on a bone stock low compression smogged out LA 318 engine from ‘89? That I do not know for sure

That's the best picture I have I'm afraid.
I would have to look over it, maybe upload a picture for you of the actual install. But I'm not with the car right now.
The only wiring I remember is tapping into the dark blue wire at the bulkhead connector, running it across the bay. After that it's all foggy lol
Mine is the same year, an '89
I can't do any testing right now, timing cover and WP are off.
I will post the link to the kit:
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit, Hi-Po ECU
If you click on "view this products spec sheet" it downloads the install sheet. Then open it and go down to the "replacing lean burn" section

 

[Ele115]

You have separate start and run. If you didn't, you could not energize the starter. Take a test light and go down under the steering column. You'll find them. I promise you they are there.

 

[grandpas_car]

That's the best picture I have I'm afraid.
I would have to look over it, maybe upload a picture for you of the actual install. But I'm not with the car right now.
The only wiring I remember is tapping into the dark blue wire at the bulkhead connector, running it across the bay. After that it's all foggy lol
Mine is the same year, an '89
I can't do any testing right now, timing cover and WP are off.
I will post the link to the kit:
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit, Hi-Po ECU
If you click on "view this products spec sheet" it downloads the install sheet. Then open it and go down to the "replacing lean burn" section

That link worked for me, and I just read through it. Come to find out, their instructions are 95% excerpts pulled out of a Mopar Performance small block book. The way I read it, they’re not instructing on how to fully disable/remove the LB/SCC, but rather just how to install the traditional electronic ignition and disable the internal ignition module inside of the SCC. The instructions seem somewhat generalized and probably aimed more towards the older cars, but ours really are not that much different.

For the ‘89 I was working on, the computer box contains an internal ignition module, controls spark advance, receives input from the distributor pickup and a detonation sensor, controls fuel metering inside of a Holley 6280 carb with feedback from an O2 sensor, the EGR solenoid, the air pump solenoid, idle speed kick up solenoid, and I’m sure I’m forgetting something else. Does your car have a feedback Holley 6280 or a non feedback Holley 2280?

My goal with the car I was working on was to fix the troubled ignition system. The car belongs to a close family member and is not a performance car, but just a car to putt around in. I didn’t want this family member to have any issues with state inspections, so I only needed to make the ignition system reliable again. What I did was really simple and the computer is still doing everything the same as before, except now the ignition module is external rather than internal in the SCC.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Yup, thats why I said we have the exact same car, very different situations however.
I had to replace the entire fuel system and associated lines, entire brake system and lines, all rotted. And had to replace the ignition cylinder before I could even start the car. Then it ran like crap, and I like to have a little fun with my cars(may drop a 360 in it one day) so I was advised to install the electronic system to both possibly fix the current issues, and make future motor swap easier.
It runs a LOT better with the electronic ignition installed, I wouldn't have been able to take it up the road before, now I can at least drive it.

I had the same computer box that runs all the stuff and micro manages every aspect of the motor. But when I bought the car I didn't realize it was computer controlled. That's exactly what I didn't want. I wanted all motor and gauges.(I bought the whole motor, imma use the whole motor lol)

I installed the electronic system with those instructions provided, removed that computer entirely. And De-pinned the wiring harness of any of that computers wiring, leaving only the choke thermostat, coolant temp sensor and I think that was it.

I did have the 6280, but went to a junkyard and pulled a non feedback 2280 from a ram charger. Rebuilt it,adjusted it, and that's what's on the car now.

I also removed the defunct air pump and all associated wiring/piping/bracket(except the pipe going down to the exhaust, that is still there until I find the correct hole filler, I know they are around just have to find one on a junkyard motor)
And it did have an EGR, but I have removed that and placed a block off plate(also from ram charger) to eliminate it as a possible problem, at least until I figure out what's going on.

And now I'm in limbo looking for/waiting for gaskets

 

[grandpas_car]

Yup, thats why I said we have the exact same car, very different situations however.
I had to replace the entire fuel system and associated lines, entire brake system and lines, all rotted. And had to replace the ignition cylinder before I could even start the car. Then it ran like crap, and I like to have a little fun with my cars(may drop a 360 in it one day) so I was advised to install the electronic system to both possibly fix the current issues, and make future motor swap easier.
It runs a LOT better with the electronic ignition installed, I wouldn't have been able to take it up the road before, now I can at least drive it.

I had the same computer box that runs all the stuff and micro manages every aspect of the motor. But when I bought the car I didn't realize it was computer controlled. That's exactly what I didn't want. I wanted all motor and gauges.(I bought the whole motor, imma use the whole motor lol)

I installed the electronic system with those instructions provided, removed that computer entirely. And De-pinned the wiring harness of any of that computers wiring, leaving only the choke thermostat, coolant temp sensor and I think that was it.

I did have the 6280, but went to a junkyard and pulled a non feedback 2280 from a ram charger. Rebuilt it,adjusted it, and that's what's on the car now.

I also removed the defunct air pump and all associated wiring/piping/bracket(except the pipe going down to the exhaust, that is still there until I find the correct hole filler, I know they are around just have to find one on a junkyard motor)
And it did have an EGR, but I have removed that and placed a block off plate(also from ram charger) to eliminate it as a possible problem, at least until I figure out what's going on.

And now I'm in limbo looking for/waiting for gaskets

Ahh so you had to work for yours a bit before your 5th was driveable! The one I worked on sat for 11 years and to my surprise needed very little to become road worth again. I’ve also had to replace brake hardlines on that car.

The modifications you did to your 5th is exactly what this one needed and exactly what I would’ve done if it was mine. You really brought your car back to life

For my knowledge, what’s the deal with Ramchargers having the non emissions parts you need? Were they exempt in Canada?

I assume you have the TC off because you are replacing the timing chain?