No better way to learn, right?

[brotherGood]

So, Saturday I'm planning on changing the brake line that runs from front to back. I've never really changed a line of that size before..so it should be interesting. First question, what's the trick to getting it off in one piece. I've got some Kano in the garage, works way better than PB..Do I just hit it with that and pull? Are there clips that I've gotta worry about? Also, what would be the best way to install the new line? Along the same path, or otherwise?

Any and all help is appreciated..I want to get this buttoned up before we start bodywork

 

[Blackbirdsrt78]

When breaking the fittings loose use 2 wrenches, a flare wrench is what I use on the solid line fittings .a regular combo wrench can be used to hold the the hose ends.it fits over the line and keeps you from stripping the fitting. sometimes the solid lines fitting will not spin so you will have to spin the rubber hose end. but yeah flare wrenches are what you need to be using regular wrenches will round those fittings off real easy. if the fittings will not spin and you force them they will shear off

 

[brotherGood]

The line fittings aren't bad. We just had each fitting off when we changed prop valves and the rear hose (again). Im just not 100% on whether or not there are a bunch of clips between front and back, or if they are bolted in clamps, or what. Id love to get the old out in one piece, so I can bend the new one easier. I saw a thread on this on another forum, but I'm still sketchy.

Do I even need to run the exact same path as factory? Or can I run it any which way? Shoot if its not that big of a deal, I'll just run it as straight as possible..Lol

 

[Blackbirdsrt78]

not sure if there are clips but I would look before pulling it. lines bend real easy. I would go along the same path as original so the clips will retain the new line. if the fittings were easy then the rest will be a breeze I usually have trouble with the fittings.

 

[joeblo]

I removed mine in one piece and bent the new ones the same before installing them. Worked well and much easier then trying to bend them under the car. Left the ends a few inches longer, and cut to fit after lines were installed. The way the factory ran them is probably the best way, you don't want them to be the lowest part of the car. Good luck.

 

[ramenth]

Wanna know a secret from guys in the trade? Clip pipe off at the flare nuts with a pair of dikes and put a six point socket on the nuts. Even if you take the pipe off in pieces you can still match up the new pipe with the old, just follow the pieces.

Get the roll, don't try this with lengths. That way you only have two flares and no unions so you don't have to worry about leaks.

Even laying on your back, an hour, tops.

 

[brotherGood]

Wanna know a secret from guys in the trade? Clip pipe off at the flare nuts with a pair of dikes and put a six point socket on the nuts. Even if you take the pipe off in pieces you can still match up the new pipe with the old, just follow the pieces.

Even laying on your back, an hour, tops.

Never would've thought about that.

I've got maybe 10 ft on a roll. I bought another 6 footer and a union, just so I had plenty extra. Even then, I'd like to have them meet at a straight part, not a bend.

I'll check for the clips while I'm under there..push comes to shove I'll snip the old at the clip, and run the new beside it. Maybe just clip it near the original.

 

[joeblo]

I would buy a new roll and toss the union. I'm sure many have used them with out problems. But not on my car.

 

[slant6billy]

Can you get this on video? I had a small misfortune last weekend with dual exhaust. There is a drip on the driverside rear in front of the axle. The hard line looks wet and I bet as I forced the driverside exhaust into position it pushed up against the junction where the hard line and flex line meet against the framerail. It has that spiral crap around the hardline, so I can't see where it leaks. It is 35 year old line, so Not too broken-hearted. So without looking, I would think a direct shot from the prop valve to the flex? What type of footage? would a 12 foot or 10 foot make it? Here is the other foreseeable future: My 8 3/4 rear has the vent with the 3way distro block on the pass side. Currently my 8 1/4 is on the driver. So I will need to think about running the new line to handle either ?

 

[brotherGood]

Distance is just short of 12 feet. The thread I referenced on another forum, the guy used 2 51" and a 40" with 2 unions. I guess there are a few bends under the drivers feet and at the firewall..but I was thinking too, why not just drop straight down? Im sure once I can actually get under it, I'll be able to see more clear.

 

[Rattle Trap]

Sounds like you have the job in hand.
I always put vise-grips on the flaring dies as close to the flaring tool as I can get them so I don't strip the dies.

I just got a call from a friend the other day wanting a prop valve. Seems he checked the manual too late, and it says to leave a front bleeder open to bleed the rears off. Then Re bleed the fronts. Otherwise you blow the unserviceable and unavailable prop valve. Since I traded my last prop valve for a Cheeseburger, he's now going Wilwood...

 

[brotherGood]

Sounds like you have the job in hand.
I always put vise-grips on the flaring dies as close to the flaring tool as I can get them so I don't strip the dies.

Waddya mean?

You can reset the valve, we've done it before. It's a PITA, but then again this car hasn't had rear brakes in about 2.5 years. We fixed it at one point, but then the wheel cylinders blew and shut them back off. Now that everything is new back there, just gotta get it back flowing right again..Lol.

And hey, I really do appreciate the valve..and I'm glad you enjoyed your burger..Lol

 

[brotherGood]

Well, I've got the new lines run, but ran out of time to finish buttoning it up. Gotta figure out how to clip the lines so they don't hang.

There was no way that thing was coming out in one piece. The clamps and bolts were so trashed, a slight tug released it. The lines were so brittle, they broke when I tried to get the front of the line out. For some reason, I was having a terrible time getting the flares to come out right..so we'll see how it works

 

[Jack Meoff]

Work on that flare technique bro....don't want any leaks.

 

[brotherGood]

The more I think about it, the more I wonder if its my flare tool. The only good ones I've ever put on were the ones I used the Autozone loaned one. Dad bought one after we returned it, and I've used it one other time and had the same result. It just either slides out of the clamp, or the button doesn't go down evenly. When I used it before, it didn't leak...we'll see how this goes. Luckily, I didn't use much line that required the flares, so if push comes to shove, I'll yank it back out and put a new piece on there. If that's the case, Im renting the good one.

Im not doing anything soon though, working in the sub freezing cold, on the concrete for a couple hours..Im pretty sure Im sick. Am I surprised, no..this isn't the first time an illness has occurred working on my car. No kidding, Dad was putting a horn on a couple winters ago, and ended up getting scabies. And, it spread throughout my entire family, and my wife got it. We joke about the car being bad juju...but its really not a joke.

 

[slant6billy]

I'm not too familiar with tubing, but is there a difference to the flare of stainless and non stainless? I think there is, but am not sure. I think it is the angle or double flare? I'll be tackling mine soon too.

 

[brotherGood]

The one that's needed is the double flare. I tried to get at least some pictures, but everything was so rusted and mangled, it wouldn't have done much.