One thing after another...

Deano

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I wrapped the fuel line with DE heat sheath this morning. I'm hoping that the shit ethanol fuel will either blend in or get treated with the Lucas ethanol additive.

This is the second carburetor I've out in this thing. First was one I bought from AutoZone was a reman with a year warranty which would still be affect, and the one on the engine now is reman from O'Reilly's, with a 90 day warranty which expired about 4-5 months ago.

The "mechanic" that installed the O'Reilly's carb said, "If I were you, I'd get rid of that junk from AutoZone. I don't know why anybody would buy anything from them." Everybody that I told that I was going to have my car worked on by the "mechanic"
would say; "Oh yeah. He really know's his stuff. He'll get you taken care of". Didn't prove a fucking thing to me. Would've been better off attempting it myself.

If I had stayed with the AZ carb, I would still be able to get an exchange it for another one. Now I'll either have to buy another or have this one rebuilt- again.
 

Enchalay

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Time to test, not guess. What is the fuel pressure at idle? Have you checked and replaced all the rubber hoses in the system? Did you blow out all the lines when you replaced the hoses? What condition is the tank sock? If you have a clear plastic fuel filter can you see fuel in the filter at idle and right after the car acts up? Did you check and make sure the tank is venting? Voltage at the coil? Correct coil? Loose electrical connections? Bad grounds? Good ignition module with good ground? Are the engine ground straps in place with clean, tight connections?

All these parts (unless replaced) are 44 or so years old. Several small issues can add up to the car quitting going down the road. I would concentrate of the fuel supply first. Drop the tank, replace the sock and all the fuel lines with modern hose first thing. a small crack can allow the system to draw air but not leak fuel. None of these things are expensive, just time consuming.
 

Deano

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All electronics are properly grounded. I tested with my multimeter by running continuity checks, one probe to the component casing and the other probe to another proven ground at different areas under the hood. If I hear a beep, it's properly grounded.

When it stalled yesterday, there was no fuel comiing from the jets when I worked the throttle. I tapped the area of the fuel inlet at the carb, and it allowed fuel to enter the bowl after I tried to restart the engine. When I operated the throttle afterwards, there was fuel from the jets. Don't know if it's faulty needle or the floats need to be adjusted.

I have a metal 3 orifice fuel filter. Inlet/outlet/return, so I can't look and see if there's fuel making it to the filter. Also a new fuel pump has been installed. I do have fuel pressure, I just don't know how much.
 
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