paint help epoxy primer and single stage

High Speed Pursuit

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My best advice is go to your local auto paint store and talk to them about everything you are asking. I painted cars for 15 years and I can tell you base coat and clear coat are more forgiving than they used to be and epoxy primers are way better...the key to a killer paint job is countless hours of preparation to get the body straight and then countless more hours sanding and taping...then painting becomes the easier part of it all. You can get inexpensive paint guns that will serve you well, but in order to use them, you need an air compressor that has at least a 60 gallon tank and a lot of water traps before your paint guns get the air...if that is not feasible, and you don't care how it gets painted, take your car to the local highschool auto/body class and let them do it for you as a class project, or the same goes with a local trade school. Rattle cans are good for a lot of pieces, but they don't have enough pigment/solids to last very long in the elements and you will have several other paint overlap issues if you paint your entire car that can't be color sanded to fix. Even your hood will not flow out properly in flat black because rattle can paint dries much quicker that spray gun mixes of paint because of the reactive reducer used that allows different drying rates relative to the temperature, etc. You can also think about a flat black body wrap/decal for your hood...as long as you sand it well to make it even, these body decals work out pretty well. There is so much to talk about when it comes to painting cars, so like I said earlier, a trip down to the paint store and reading on line articles about painting are your best bet....you don't have to be a good painter as long as you can wet sand, block sand, and buff...probably not the answer you were wanting, but it's a process of trial and error and a lot of labor...give it a try with what ever you have and if it doesn't suit you, sand it down and try it again...Single stage paint is fairly easy to spray if its a solid color because if you get any runs (and you will) you can wet sand/block sand them down to flat, and then a little buffing will be required. I will say that rattle can primer such as the Sem Brand or any can you would find at the autopaint store is pretty good, and more expensive than others, but much better...you can wet or dry sand it and it has good filling properties.
 

alfatar

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Go to hot rod forum, H.A.M.B., and the paint mfg web sights for all your questions. If you do it yourself make sure you get the best mask you can afford.If not you can get real sick or die.Look into using rustoleum paint. It can be rolled and then color sanded and buffed.
good luck and be safe

Mike
 

bremereric

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If you go cheap on paint that's a no no in my experience. I use PPG and they have the cheaper Shopline brand that I would not use. I use their top of the line stuff and you get good results. Look at my project, engine bay and such. I used white epoxy primer on bare metal and there DBC single stage. Looks great and will last for a long time. More paint and primer than the factory put on. M2C.
 

77kickinaspen

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OK here goes....so after reading everything u guys said and after talk to the guy that did the body work and does tons of hot rods high class hes outs my price range but his knowledge is not,he said don't try roll on primer from the hardware store cause ima gonna be sanding it down forever to get it flat he said i should go to the local good auto paint stores and get rattle cants of epoxy like vht sem or other reputable brands they may have and he said i can start piece by piece if I'm on a budget but he said paint it with primer sealer and he said when I'm done and have it smooth and ready i can get single stage nassin from the local DuPont he said it is a very user friendly paint and very forgiving and he said it should look good as long as its a solid color an no metallic. s

some of that overlaps with what u guys are saying i wish my compressor was bigger its a 2hp/10gallon i did paint a car with it it was kinda going piece by piece in between the compressor filling i can deal with that if thats the worst thing......

I'm set on epoxy and if i find a epoxy primer sealer that would be the sh^$ also the 160 bucks of spray-able single stage and they have a hot rod black combo pack that makes like a pint spray-able for the hood,i will have to get a water separator i didn't use one painting the other car.


comments please
 
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High Speed Pursuit

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Sounds like you are on the right track...another suggestion is that you can rent a large capacity compressor on wheels from an industrial rental place or home depot for a lot cheaper than buying one, less than $30/day around here...then you can get a water separator for $20 bucks to mount on a 2x4 or something rigid, then run your hose to the gun and add another $10 inline water separator just before your gun to prevent as much water entering your spray cup as possible, which also reduces post painting touch up. With single stage solid colors, you can really lay the paint to it without much skill and then have a color sanding party afterwards to get your paint as flat as possible, then buff it out...you'll be amazed how much those two steps will make your car go from average to awesome....this does not apply to flat black paint...for that you need to add a slower drying reducer and really open up the pattern on your spray gun to lay your coats as wide and wet as possible to avoid overlap stripes (tiger stripes), then it should blend as a flat sheet of black. Me personally, I don't like spraying a hood laying flat because of the tendency to lay the paint to it and it will cause uneven drying and will be a little wavy...I prefer to paint hoods either by hanging them of laying them at an angle to get a uniform finish...don't fear making a mess of painting your entire car, that's what sand paper, compound, and buffers are for...just not on flat black
 

77kickinaspen

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sounds great we have a rental place i could get the compressor i was jus gonna get one water seporator but i geuss i could get two it will be solid color im thinking patriot blue without the metallic or pearl whitchever it has in it.i like the dark ram blue.
i will be spraying out side in my alley so im not expecting foose work im expecting something better then old faded pink and dingy . and with my binks m1g prolly rent a compressor before that i will be peiceing it apart painting the easy bolt off body parts painting with primer sealersanding with 600 then spraying my single stage , wet sand with what grit?????? buff with what a non abrasiv compound????
 

High Speed Pursuit

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For the epoxy primer, I would start with 320 or 400 because 600 alone will not cut deep enough and you will use way too many sheets and manhours to get it flat when cutting with 320/400 will save you paper and time. For the paint the grit depends on how much orange peel and/or runs...for a run you would start with 320 or 400 (on a block not your hand) and move on to 600 to get it even with the rest of the paint layer around it, and then you would stop on that spot and just include that spot when you are sanding the entire car. If the paint flows out pretty good, you might start with 600 and work yourself towards 1500 or 2000 grit depending on how slick you want it and how long your arms hold out, but if there is dirt and bugs in it or its got a lot of orange peel, start with 320. As far as compound and buffing, you should speak to your local auto paint store staff...there are several levels and layers of liquid and paste compounds as well as pads but basically you will start with a little cut in the compound and work towards polish....you've got your work cut out for you going to blue from red/orange/pink, but you can do it and feel great about it. If you take off the fenders to spray the jams, spray the inside of them to practice where no one will see...manage your paint because a gallon won't go as far as you think if you mix several little batches to piece paint. Most paint stores only fill the gallon can about 80% full...ask them to mix a true gallon and then pour about a pint of it into a quart can and use that can only for piece painting, that way you won't run out of paint in the middle of spraying the outside of your car...most of all, it's got to be warm outside and not too humid since its going to be painted outside...the paint store will tell you the correct temp and %
 

77kickinaspen

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thank you u have much great advice and am really getting eager to do it.with the paint im going to paint the car with fender off prolly but all at one time in same day last time i did this it was a nice summer day prolly 70degrees worked great but i will ask thank you is it harder to go from a light to darker? i could change my mind on color orange and green may be options
 

High Speed Pursuit

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Its not harder, but everything you see that is red/orange/pink has to be painted blue (if you want to)...sometimes you can get by with not painting hard to get to places when you repaint the same color, but its not impossible or anything.
 
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