Power Steering pump mounting

Bluejeansthe5th

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This is an issue with my 87 Fifth Avenue. I have done some front engine work and am putting the car back together. I failed to take detailed pics before removing components... I have put the pump back on, suing the schematic from the air pump section of the FSM, since it has a air pump. I have the two holed spaces in the two far side holes on the right as you look at the water pump. The lower hole part is less deep, I have that facing to the rear for the front ps bracket and the slotted adjustment for the pump in that lower hole. Sure seems tight to me and with the pump mounted from the front bracket to the rear bracket the pump refuses to pivot in the slot, it is stuck. The FSM and an older parts manual show another spaces for that lower hole, but I would expect it would only make things worse. I also don't seem to have that spacer. I hope someone has a pic or can tell me if the pump is installed wrong. I have one pic of what the lower hole install looks like. I tried for other perspectives without much luck. Would appreciate any advice.

20211001_153443_01.jpg
 

BudW

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There are a total of four P/S brackets. Two bolt to the P/S pump and two are stationary to engine.
These are from my '86 Fifth Ave 318 2-bbl, which were just taken. It did have the AIR pump removed, much like you had.
20211001_171801.jpg

20211001_171750.jpg

The rear bracket engine bolts are marked with red arrows. One of which is tapped into the water jacket - so be prepared
to have coolant dump out if not ready.
20211001_171924.jpg

20211001_171846.jpg

Two water pump bolts can allow for coolant to leak - depending on how good your water pump gasket is - but "should" reseal once fasteners are re-tightened.
The top water pump-P/S bolt and the water pump above it are longer than usual because of the AIR pump bracket.
I found one bolt in my stash and had to purchase another bolt to remove that bracket completely - and looks like you already did the same.

These four (long) water pump bolts have a tendency to rust/corrode and sometimes can make bolt removal rather difficult.
SB Water Pump, Large.jpg

I highly recommend to clean well, then lightly coat the length of the bolt with wheel bearing grease or with anti-seize compound before installing bolts. If you don't, the next time one goes to remove those four bolts, one (or more) could snap on you - which can make for a "bad day".
Also, I like to paint aluminum parts because A) easier to keep clean (and looks better) and B) bare aluminum will start to look dingy, from corrosion, in a short time.

You can see where I painted my water pump blue whereas the engine is black (paint as well as oil residue). IMO, black is not a good engine color and I refuse to paint any engine parts black.
This 318 will be removed from car at a later date, to reseal engine including valve seals, timing chain, freeze plugs, etc. and i will paint the Chrysler blue at that time before going back into the car.

Hopefully this helps
BudW
 

BudW

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I failed to take detailed pics before removing components..
Don't feel bad. We all have . . . at some time in our lives.

The reason I bring it up is a picture (cell camera, pen/paper, etc.) is worth a thousand words at times - especially if the repair will take more than a couple of hours - and this data might be a huge help to the next person.
BudW
 

BudW

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the pump refuses to pivot in the slot, it is stuck.
20211001_162733_01.jpg

The arrow above is for a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar. It can be a huge help to get things moving.

20211001_171846a.jpg

This bolt and the pivot bolt needs to be loose (less than finger tight) to get the pump to pivot. Once belt is "to tension", tighten the slotted bolt (larger of the two arrows) then tighten the pivot.
 

Bluejeansthe5th

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There are a total of four P/S brackets. Two bolt to the P/S pump and two are stationary to engine.
These are from my '86 Fifth Ave 318 2-bbl, which were just taken. It did have the AIR pump removed, much like you had.
View attachment 45214
View attachment 45215
The rear bracket engine bolts are marked with red arrows. One of which is tapped into the water jacket - so be prepared
to have coolant dump out if not ready.
View attachment 45216
View attachment 45217
Two water pump bolts can allow for coolant to leak - depending on how good your water pump gasket is - but "should" reseal once fasteners are re-tightened.
The top water pump-P/S bolt and the water pump above it are longer than usual because of the AIR pump bracket.
I found one bolt in my stash and had to purchase another bolt to remove that bracket completely - and looks like you already did the same.

These four (long) water pump bolts have a tendency to rust/corrode and sometimes can make bolt removal rather difficult.
View attachment 45218
I highly recommend to clean well, then lightly coat the length of the bolt with wheel bearing grease or with anti-seize compound before installing bolts. If you don't, the next time one goes to remove those four bolts, one (or more) could snap on you - which can make for a "bad day".
Also, I like to paint aluminum parts because A) easier to keep clean (and looks better) and B) bare aluminum will start to look dingy, from corrosion, in a short time.

You can see where I painted my water pump blue whereas the engine is black (paint as well as oil residue). IMO, black is not a good engine color and I refuse to paint any engine parts black.
This 318 will be removed from car at a later date, to reseal engine including valve seals, timing chain, freeze plugs, etc. and i will paint the Chrysler blue at that time before going back into the car.

Hopefully this helps
BudW
Thank you so much! The water pump is being changed as I did the timing chain. No coolant in the car. The air pump is still on the car, as is the bracket. I was wondering how that rear bracket attached (your red arrows). I'm going to use some grease on the bolts as they are not in permanently. I think it is obvious, but I will ask that you got shorter bolts to remove the air pump bracket.
 

BudW

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I "believe" (but not 100% certain) the long water pump bolts are 3/8"-16 x 5-1/4".
I think the AIR pump bolts are 3/8"-16 x 6-1/4". What I did was measure the distance of spacer and extra bracket, then deducted that from length of the longer bolt.

The long bolt threads are OK to keep dry. It is the distance of the bolt that travels through the timing cover that needs to have some kind of thin coating on it, to prevent corrosion/rust.

I can't tell you how many bolts I have had to work on where the long bolt(s) snapped even with the timing cover edge when being removed. A bit of prevention works wonders from having to get out a pry bar and sledge hammer and a lot of grief and blood to get one of those timing covers off.
 
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