Tach hookup

MiradaCMX80

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Stopped to get an Equus tach today. I was reading on an A-Body forum that hooking the tach lead to the coil negative can make the tach jumpy due to possible RF interference. The answer is to hook the tach lead into the grey wire on the distributor instead, and run the positive for the tach straight to battery. Can anyone confirm this or offer their setup tips? I wil say that my coil is on the passenger side, under the washer fluid bottle. Going to the dizzy would be a shorter run.
 

89.Fifth

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Tachs on the coil have worked just fine for me. Either way I would test it before doing the final wiring.
 

Duke5A

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Hook up the hot wire to the gauge circuit with everything else. Don't be one of those guys that has a dozen wires hooked up to the battery positive terminal.
 

MiradaMegacab

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You can instal a 3 3/8” tach pretty easily in the gauge cluster.
2 1/16” gauges fit in the smaller pods.
EEC987D0-F878-498F-8BF2-DE7D7CA8E8B0.jpeg
 

MiradaCMX80

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That looks good. My fuel gauge is wonky...if it turns out to be the gauge and not the sending unit, I'll do this.
 

SRTMirada

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Well the speedometer fits right in and gives you a place to move the high beam indicator so you can put a 2 1/16 gauge in that position.
I mounted the 2 1/16 gauges in a piece of plexiglas shaped like the original gauge. The plastic behind it needs to be clearanced.
For the tachometer you need to locate the position and cut a hole in the back of the cluster with a small saw. ( X-acto) The circuit board has to be cut apart and spliced back together with jumper wires. The connector plugs need to be repositioned away from the back of the cluster for clearance. It really is a lot of work but as you can see it turned out pretty well.
I think the tach and speedometer are available in reproductions.
 

MiradaCMX80

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Well the speedometer fits right in and gives you a place to move the high beam indicator so you can put a 2 1/16 gauge in that position.
I mounted the 2 1/16 gauges in a piece of plexiglas shaped like the original gauge. The plastic behind it needs to be clearanced.
For the tachometer you need to locate the position and cut a hole in the back of the cluster with a small saw. ( X-acto) The circuit board has to be cut apart and spliced back together with jumper wires. The connector plugs need to be repositioned away from the back of the cluster for clearance. It really is a lot of work but as you can see it turned out pretty well.
I think the tach and speedometer are available in reproductions.

Very cool. Definitely gives me some ideas to play with.
 
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