Hey guys! Hope everyone has had a great summer! It’s been super warm by me, but cooler temps are around the corner. My current battery in my 77 aspen with the 383 big block just took a dump on me. It was a flooded type interstate battery with 810 CCA. That particular battery was a Costco special……I was never super impressed with it. However, I have true interstate batteries from actual interstate battery dealers in my daily vehicles and have been impressed with them. My big question is do I stick with an interstate flooded type battery direct from interstate, or do I go with a red/yellow top optima AGM? I’ve heard good things about the XS power batteries, but they are pricey (400-500 bucks). What’s everyone running these days? Thanks in advance for all of the suggestions! Picture of my ride for attention!
Battery suggestions for F body big block swap
- Thread starter 77rod
- Start date
volare 1977
Well-Known Member
May be better selections nowadays but in the past I always went to battery warehouse and got the best battery they had that would fit in my battery tray. I also had used the red top optima batteries in the past and the newer ones don`t seem to be as good as the older ones.
M_Body_Coupe
Well-Known Member
I had the Optima RedTop (Group 34, CA=100, CCA=800, RC=100) in my Coupe for about 11 yrs...that took me through all the start-ups, tuning events, etc...point being: plenty of cranking going on. That thing was $200 back in 2012.
That battery was replaced ONLY because one of the battery posts developed a crack and eventually split right off. For all I know it could have been me, maybe hitting it somehow, etc...the post break actually was located in the plastic case, weird looking, like a crack through the post actually. I had actually emailed Optima the photos asking for a discount on a replacement battery (seeing as this one was still holding charge, no issues otherwise), but sadly I did not get a response.
I replaced it with another RedTop, same specs as the previous one. The new one cost me $350 in 2023.
That battery was replaced ONLY because one of the battery posts developed a crack and eventually split right off. For all I know it could have been me, maybe hitting it somehow, etc...the post break actually was located in the plastic case, weird looking, like a crack through the post actually. I had actually emailed Optima the photos asking for a discount on a replacement battery (seeing as this one was still holding charge, no issues otherwise), but sadly I did not get a response.
I replaced it with another RedTop, same specs as the previous one. The new one cost me $350 in 2023.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
After having problems with multiple Costco batteries, International and a bunch of others I've been using Walmart batteries and never had a problem. The oldest is 8 years old, just got one for my Crown Vic a couple weeks ago and will be buying an M body size one any day now.
One huge plus is if there is a problem it's more convenient to deal with then a lot of other places.
One huge plus is if there is a problem it's more convenient to deal with then a lot of other places.
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
I used to run optima batteries in my Panthers and other Fords. Honestly, they're not worth it for a street car. I have Advance Auto and Autozone batteries that have lasted longer. And I used optima when they were still considered "good" batteries.
If you want to be really cheap, and like rolling the dice, buy the $70 Autozone batteries that only come with a 90 day warranty. They're the same batteries that come with 2 year warranties that cost twice or three times as much. The "warranty" is just you pre paying for a replacement. Autozone doesn't keep the cheapo batteries on the customer facing shelves; they keep them in the back. The last time I bought one the goofball behind the counter tried to shame me into buying a more expensive battery. Didn't work.
Also, the local junkyards by me sell used, tested, batteries for $35. For $2 more you can get a junkyard exchange warranty.
If you want to be really cheap, and like rolling the dice, buy the $70 Autozone batteries that only come with a 90 day warranty. They're the same batteries that come with 2 year warranties that cost twice or three times as much. The "warranty" is just you pre paying for a replacement. Autozone doesn't keep the cheapo batteries on the customer facing shelves; they keep them in the back. The last time I bought one the goofball behind the counter tried to shame me into buying a more expensive battery. Didn't work.
Also, the local junkyards by me sell used, tested, batteries for $35. For $2 more you can get a junkyard exchange warranty.
Thank you for the advice! I am currently considering a yellow top optima battery because of your good luck with optima. I may go with a red top but trying to figure out what size I should go with in general.
I don't even know what's in the Fifth. It's an 800cca something. I think it's a name brand. It's seven years old now. My F150 has a no name in it that went dead from not being used. Shocked it back to life with a stick welder and it's been fine for three years now.
I only pay around $200 for a battery. Suited me well so far.
I only pay around $200 for a battery. Suited me well so far.
80mirada
Well-Known Member
Mine is a Continental 750 cca. Mine is trunk mounted and has a remote vent
Hey Guys! I just wanted to update to the post and let everyone know that I ended up going with a group 27 840 CCA Duracell brand battery from batteries plus. I found a decent number of good reviews on them, so I figured I would give it a shot. I've got an interstate (from an intestate store, not from a big box) in my 2013 Camry, so it will be interesting to see which one seems to be better. Thanks everyone for the great feedback!
200 bucks for a battery??
I just got a new one for my Charger (70Ah, dunno CCA) for 75 EUR/approx 90 USD incl shipping...
And I thought those are more expensive over here in Europe...
M_Body_Coupe
Well-Known Member
WWWHHHHAAAATTTTTT???
No, seriously, what happened here? Was the post connector loose and the thing just kept on jummping around resulting in the post itself melting down???
Holy crap!!!
The starter wire was bad and obviously connected to ground. Car ran, but at full throttle he had ignition issues and stopped it immediately, breaking the run (last run was 11.1s). We pushed it back and realized the molten pole, which itself resulted from being loose (just push on, pull off).
That was quite a lot of amps going through the high connection-resistance (being not tightened properly).
But the battery itself still showed 12.74V after the desaster. Good luck: nothing caught fire.
That was quite a lot of amps going through the high connection-resistance (being not tightened properly).
But the battery itself still showed 12.74V after the desaster. Good luck: nothing caught fire.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I know they are VERY pricey but I've bought two Lithium Ion 12V batteries for two different vehicles when the old battery went bad. Substantial weight savings, no acid/corrosion, longer life. Also much lower self-discharge rate which is great for cars not daily drivers!
I know there are some negatives, mainly the cost, but I love the weight savings. I have a braille battery in my old Police car that's 14 pounds and I just bought an Antigravity one for my TRX that's 80amps and 2000CCA and weighs 22 pounds.
I know there are some negatives, mainly the cost, but I love the weight savings. I have a braille battery in my old Police car that's 14 pounds and I just bought an Antigravity one for my TRX that's 80amps and 2000CCA and weighs 22 pounds.
I truly hope and trust that you DID NOT install Li-Ion batteries. They are rather dangerous. As in mobile phones.
What could be used is Li-FePo (Lithium Iron Phosphate). This chemistry is quite safe. I have these installed in my 79 camper as camp-batteries.
What could be used is Li-FePo (Lithium Iron Phosphate). This chemistry is quite safe. I have these installed in my 79 camper as camp-batteries.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
Both are quite safe when properly manufactured. I've had a lithium Ion in my old Police car for years. These are 12V batteries manufactured for use in vehicles. Yeah cell phones had an issue awhile back but these are not quite the same technology.
General info:
Built-in Battery Management System (BMS): A 12V Lithium Ion battery typically comes with a Battery Management System (BMS), which helps monitor the battery’s voltage, temperature, and current. This ensures that the battery operates within safe limits and prevents damage or hazardous situations.
General info:
Is a 12V Lithium Ion Battery Safe for Car Use?
Safety is a primary concern for any type of battery used in vehicles, and 12V Lithium Ion batteries are no exception. Fortunately, modern lithium-ion battery systems are designed with a number of safety features to prevent overheating, overcharging, and short circuits.Built-in Battery Management System (BMS): A 12V Lithium Ion battery typically comes with a Battery Management System (BMS), which helps monitor the battery’s voltage, temperature, and current. This ensures that the battery operates within safe limits and prevents damage or hazardous situations.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
The largest optional battery for a fully loaded 360 will work just fine for a 440 and recommend using a starter off of 1990 Dodge Dakota V6 on your big block… A battery tender will do wonders for battery life. One more thing buy a decent quality battery, I’ve very good luck with NAPA batteries.
