The Chrysler big blocks all had driver side lower radiator hose from ’59 to ’71. 1972-79 big blocks (car or truck) had passenger side lower radiator hose.
Chrysler small blocks had driver side lower radiator hose from ‘60(something) to ’69. 1970 to Magnum small blocks all had passenger side lower radiator hose. The Magnum water pumps are different and not paid any attention to those, yet.
All /6 radiators (’60-86) have lower neck on passenger side of car (that I know if).
The
upper necks differ through the years and (I think) mostly matter if car was made with A/C or not.
Most of all Chrysler products (cars and trucks) had a wide and narrow radiator. Narrow was for no A/C cars (note: you can get a wide radiator on no A/C cars if had towing package or max-cooling package) and wide, for everything else.
When talking about wide radiators, a few C-body and ’70’s pickups had a 28” wide core (with max-cooling and/or towing option). Most everything else (including the other C-bodies or pickups) had a 26” wide radiator.
For FMJ’s, the narrow radiator was either 18”, 19”, 20” or 22” (depending on the year). If you can find a good 28” wide core, grab it (see notes, below).
The radiator on my no A/C ’77 wagon 318 is 18” wide.
In my garage (none for sale) I have four radiators (and an extra set if 26” FMJ tank straps):
’69 C-body 440 A/T A/C 26”x18” 3-core Right upper/Left Lower neck
(A)
’74 pickup 440 A/T A/C 26”x20” 4-core Right upper/Right lower neck
(B)
M-body (4140652) 26”x18” 1-core Left upper/Right lower neck, 2x
(C)
The one marked
(A) would be idea for
@Aspen500 so he could use a normal upper radiator hose (wait, was I not to say that out-loud . . . sorry).
The one marked
(B) I plan on using on one of my big blocks. I’m going to remove the metal side tank straps and solder on a set of my FMJ straps. It should work like it was made there.
Not sure what I’m using for the second big block, yet (hadn’t gotten that far along, yet).
Aluminum radiators will transfer heat more efficiently than brass ones will, which is a big plus for the aftermarket radiators. I just don’t like the look of aluminum radiators. A painted black corrugated radiator is what I want.
I refer to corrugated as this look:
It is sad (to me) that most of all the new FMJ radiators available today use plastic tanks. Thanks, but I’ll pass.
Note: if you are going big block, don’t use the narrow radiator.
Note: most body types (A, B, C, F etc.) use different tank straps – which also changes depending on year made.
A simple solder job by a radiator shop can change them out in about 15 minutes. Don’t worry about the old tank straps – as long as you have a set from an FMJ 26” radiator. All 26” FMJ (and ’82 to ’93 pickup) side straps are the same).
Note: if you are lucky enough to find a good 28” radiator, FMJ side straps will work as well – but you will need to drill new mounting holes 1” (25 mm) inboard on both straps. It will be a tight fit but will work.
Note: All Chrysler transmission cooler lines screwed onto the tank from ‘60 to 1979. The ’80 and up transmission coolers used a short piece of rubber hose (high pressure 5/16” fuel hose works well).
Many (but not all) radiators have a screw-on fitting (on the tank) that allows a person to change from a hose to screw-on line fitting. If the radiator has a "fixed" hose fitting, a person can get short pieces of hose and clamp it onto your existing screw-on lines, but it might take a bit to get the hose past the flare.
Note: the metal transmission cooler lines (with hoses - '80-89) are less apt to crack (from vibration) – but the hoses will start to leak over time.
The all-metal transmission cooler lines ('76-79) are mostly trouble free - but might crack over time (from vibration) leaving a massive fluid leak. This is rare but does happen.
Non-lockup transmission ('76 to mid-year '78) cooler lines run around 30 PSI.
Lockup transmissions (mid-year ’78 to ’89) cooler lines run at 90-100 PSI.
BudW