440 source pricing is going up.

[4speedjim]

Sounds like to stock heads I think I read.

 

[Oldiron440]

I took it that way also, but I'm looking for 915, 542, 906 etc...

 

[4speedjim]

You want his head # Or you want heads? I suppose you want his head part #? Correct?

 

[Oldiron440]

I don't need heads, I was wanting to know what head he is using.

 

[4speedjim]

Thats what I figured. Im sure you have plenty of your own for door stops, wheel chocks and boat anchors.

 

[Oldiron440]

To use them is a act of defiance on my on my part. I got tired of being told to go aluminum, that stock cast iron can't make power.
I like working on them and proving that you can make power with the old junk.

 

[BudW]

Both of my big blocks are being assembled (at same time) – but is stalled due to a lack of $ as well as wife giving me “higher priority” projects to complete.

There are 4, still in box and untouched, 440 Source Stealth heads, I plan on using.
One pair has the cheap Chinese valve spring retainers – that I need to change (there was a letter in the box recommending changing them first – but had read up on them to know not to use them).
The other pair are supposed to have good retainers. I was considering going with beehive springs for both, which requires new retainers.
I also want to perform a quick port cleanup and gasket(s) match, then a thorough cleaning before install.

My heads, intake and water pump housing will be painted Chrysler blue, before install – for one of my goals is it should look like a factory install.
Actually, my primary goal is after install, for it to look like a 318 at first and maybe even at second glance.


I do have a few big block cylinder heads in my garage – but don’t think they are even worth anything, especially for the cost of freight. I sure don't have any plans on reusing any of them . . . well, maybe for my '70 300/H engine - sense that car is worth it go back to stock.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Aspen500. I currently have three 400 engines. Two are ’78 vintage NOS 400 short blocks (one was cast on 3/13/78 with an assembly date of 4/22 and other was cast on 3/14/78 with an assembly date of 4/29). My used 400 has cast date in 1974.

All three has cast cranks in them. Sense I already have to get a good steel crank for them – I figured the same thing as Aspen500 thought; if it costs about the same for parts, so you might as well get as much bang for your buck. The only thing I found, so far, with going with more cubic inches – is a difference with the windage tray and a few have found the boss where the oil pickup tube is at, needs some grinding down (for some users).

I will not build any engine for myself or friends without using a windage tray – even for a 318 2-bbl. Its free horsepower and well worth the cost.

My Diamond are coated, ceramic on top and moly on sides.

Again, I figured if I’m going to spend $, I might as well get it the way I want it to be.

On the street, with an auto, you probably leave every light and stop sign off idle as the 'verter grabs and pulls the front corner up . . . will twist the car and probably the block, but to a finite degree.

The girdle is more for “cap walking”. I haven’t heard of a block twisting issue before – but if present, it should help with that (. . . I would think). Main Cap walking is a big issue – mainly with engines with high stroke and/or for high RPM engines. My stroke is on the high end – but not as high as many others go. I don’t plan on going high RPM – so I don’t think I will “need” a girdle. That tug-of-war is still going on in my head and is not yet sorted out.

For the automatic car – I would agree, might not be needed. For the 5 or 6-speed manual car – it might not be a bad idea . . .
BudW

 

[Oldiron440]

Budw you know you need to check valve guide and valve job on those heads correct? Infact all aftermarket heads but especially the Chinese heads.

 

[BudW]

Budw you know you need to check valve guide and valve job on those heads correct? In fact all aftermarket heads but especially the Chinese heads.

Yep!
There is no way those heads are going on until I know they are perfect.
I would have preferred to purchase the heads bare, so I could perform all of the machine work – but they told me I could either purchase complete heads . . . or go elsewhere.
I think sense then, they sell them bare now – but don’t quote me on that.

About the Valve job – these will get a multi-angle job added to them, when I clean out the ports – hehe.


On other websites, I’ve seen pictures of carnage of fairly new heads, dropping valves (because of the cheap Chinese retainers). The carnage looks like a war zone (without any blood). I knew of all of this before buying.
At the time, the only other aluminum heads had angled spark plugs – and I didn’t want that direction.
BudW

 

[Duke5A]

To use them is a act of defiance on my on my part. I got tired of being told to go aluminum, that stock cast iron can't make power.
I like working on them and proving that you can make power with the old junk.

Iron can make great power! It's just that the cost to benefit isn't there seeing as how cheap aluminum castings have gotten. Of course that's only if you can't do your own porting like me.

I used OOTB Edelbrock 84cc heads on mine and now I regret it. Leave a lot on the table with those heads and I could have spent a little more and gotten the Trick Flow 240 heads. Modern Cylinder head is right down the street from me, so eventually they'll get pulled and sent over...maybe next winter. This winter I'm looking for a D60.

For the bottom end I just had it line bored with ARP studs and factory caps. It was recommended on Moparts that for my usage I wouldn't need a girdle.

 

[Oldiron440]

I know of a 383 based 4.25 stroke motor with TF 240 out of the box heads that made 757 hp. He used a vacuum pump which gave him about 20 of that but it was impressive nonetheless.