The bands will be the tricky part to get for the transmission, and it's not that tricky. Order race bands (they're 100% streetable and a smaller copy of what came in factory HD transmissions during the heyday). A good transmission shop should be able to get the Alto clutches, and probably the bands too. Ask if they can, and insist on the good stuff, not their normal "I've had good luck with..." stuff. If they can't get it, there are plenty of places it can be sourced for you to provide it to them.
There is not a good selection of pre-balanced converters (do not buy a B&M converter!) so I highly suggest the B&M flexplate. It's a high-quality, SFI rated piece. It opens your converter choices considerably, plus if you decide you want a different stall you'll have a much easier time selling a neutral-balance unit. When you have the reciprocating assembly balanced (notice I didn't say "if"--for the little it costs it's well worth it!) send your harmonic dampener and your flexplate along for the ride so they can balance the whole assembly.
Rock Auto and everyone else are selling the same mounts, and going by the incorrect catalog information supplied to them. The mounts are one piece, and bolt to the engine on one end and the K-member on the other. I've seen 'em shimmed as 80mirada pointed out. That method wasn't good enough for the factory so I don't do it personally. Others have done it for years. Your call.
You can CC the heads yourself if you get a glass plate with a hole in it and a graduated burette. I don't have the book, but I'm guessing that's the method they use. It's very easy, and burettes are downright cheap these days, stand and all. You're not mixing rocket fuel so lab-grade stuff is overkill.
I've been hot rodding engines since the day I bought my first car, but within a few years I learned to leave camshaft specs to the pros. I haven't picked my own camshaft in almost 20 years. My 29 years of experience is no match for their expertise!
There is not a good selection of pre-balanced converters (do not buy a B&M converter!) so I highly suggest the B&M flexplate. It's a high-quality, SFI rated piece. It opens your converter choices considerably, plus if you decide you want a different stall you'll have a much easier time selling a neutral-balance unit. When you have the reciprocating assembly balanced (notice I didn't say "if"--for the little it costs it's well worth it!) send your harmonic dampener and your flexplate along for the ride so they can balance the whole assembly.
Rock Auto and everyone else are selling the same mounts, and going by the incorrect catalog information supplied to them. The mounts are one piece, and bolt to the engine on one end and the K-member on the other. I've seen 'em shimmed as 80mirada pointed out. That method wasn't good enough for the factory so I don't do it personally. Others have done it for years. Your call.
You can CC the heads yourself if you get a glass plate with a hole in it and a graduated burette. I don't have the book, but I'm guessing that's the method they use. It's very easy, and burettes are downright cheap these days, stand and all. You're not mixing rocket fuel so lab-grade stuff is overkill.
I've been hot rodding engines since the day I bought my first car, but within a few years I learned to leave camshaft specs to the pros. I haven't picked my own camshaft in almost 20 years. My 29 years of experience is no match for their expertise!