Advice On My 80 Volare Duster

BudW

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Well, I am wrong.
They did make a FEW 7¼” in the ‘80’s Dakota’s, front and rear.

A person would need to confirm gear direction, first.
Another search did find quite a few gear sets, so I may have to back step quietly to the rear . . .
BudW
 

AJ/FormS

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I guess another good option is is to swap something in from another car line. It seems to me there is a popular swap going around, that involves a Jeep or an explorer. Those guys are often doing it for the disc brakes. It seems to me 3.73s are a popular ratio in those.
Anybody recall, the makes or models?
A search on FABO will turn up something.
 

BudW

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Are there any other carbs that would fit onto the slant six, say edlebrock? Im still pretty new to this game so I don't know much
You will be so much happier using a stock BBD on your stock (or slightly modified) /6.

You don’t need the CFM and the other carb choices will end up being a lot more work, more headache, and zip, zero, nada power difference over what a stock BBD will provide.

The only exception I can think of might be a fuel injection setup – but cost and time to make one work might not make it worth it.
I don’t know of any bolt on /6 fuel injection setup’s that would be cost effective.

I’d love to install F.I. on my 318 2-bbl vehicles, but just can’t squeeze the ole pocket book enough to fork over that many bills, for ‘em.

Now when my big blocks are ready, then maybe.
BudW
 

Rifleshooter

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WTB A230 3 speed manual transmission
Well,I did a quick search, and it appears that there are two versions of the A230, and yours probably has ratios of 3.08-1.70-1.00. This is nearly identical to the A833od which has 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od. That means bye-bye to the 4.7% advantage, leaving just the rear gear advantage


Now to answer your question. The 8.25 offers no real advantage to you. Whatever you get, it's not likely to have 3.55s, nor is it likely to have an LSD.So that means whatever you are going to do to the 7.25 will also have to be done to the 8.25
The 8.25 has 10 inch brakes and 5 on 4.5 axles, just like your Volare, but IIRC the backing plates are not swappable. So the only advantage is strength. And I don't see that as an advantage,cuz your slanty will have a hard time breaking anything in the 7.25, especially after the LSD goes in. Plus you are gonna be replacing all the bearings anyway, on account of you said yours was currently shedding iron . So after the swap, Everything inside that 7.25 will have been changed.
The only possible advantage I see is resale. If you install 3.55s and an LSD into an 8.25, that item is instantly saleable. So if at some point in the future, you decide to go back to your current combo( nobody will buy that off you),it's no problem to sell that 8.25 as a complete swap.
So I know dropping a grand on a 7.25 sounds crazy, but in this case, I see it as a reasonable thing to do.
Of course for a couple of grand more you could install yourself a turbo, and leave the powertrain as it is.................
I suppose you could post an ad in the want-ads and see what develops.
So if I understood all this correctly. You're saying that it wouldn't make hardly any difference in swapping to an 8.25 rear? Also it would be more beneficial to just get a 3.55s to replace the likely 2.76s that's currently installed? And lastly that getting an a833 wouldn't really change much at all except for the obvious 4th gear and higher top speed?
 

Rifleshooter

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Finding parts for the 7¼”, like ring and pinion sets, is getting pretty hard to find.

I did find a couple in eBay today – but I would want to ask some major questions before purchasing them:
CHRYSLER 7.25" AXLE RING & PINION 3:23 RATIO C7.25-323 | eBay
CHRYSLER 7.25" AXLE RING & PINION 3:55 RATIO C7.25-355 | eBay

The 3.55 ring gear is upside down!
View attachment 18763
I don’t recall a Dakota ever having a 7¼ rear axle. Front yes, but rear, no. If this is a front gear set, then the teeth are in wrong direction for your car. (note: I am not a Dakota expert).
Example of gear set teeth direction: (pics stolen from eBay).
View attachment 18764

A great price for a gear set, if the correct one, but I would want to see pictures of ring gear as well as the part number / ratio / date stamp on it, first.

It also appears to have been sand blasted/bead blasted as well. Not that that effects much, except for the tooth contact area. If teeth has been sand blasted, then gear set will make more noise than normal.
I hadn’t seen any other 7¼” gear sets for a long time, outside of the 2.2/2.4 range.
BudW
Would the 3.55s gear fit in a 7.25 rear with probably a 2.76s in it currently? And would doing the swap be difficult to do?
 

80mirada

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There are plenty of gear sets available for the 7.25 lately. Liberty and Cherokee both had 8.25 rears available. Libertys had discs available and Grand Cherokee has rear discs that work on 8.25 and 9.25 rears. Jeep and Dakota rears were usually built with more aggressive gear ratios (3.21, 3.55, 3.73, or 3.91)
 

Rifleshooter

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So what exactly would happen if I put a larger gear ratio in my 7.25? Like what are the pros and cons of putting a bigger gear ratio in my 7.25 rear?
 
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Rifleshooter

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Also if I were to find an a833 trans would I need a new bell housing for it to attach it to the slant 6 or would the one I have on my a230 fit it, also the tail shaft and the actual I stallation, what would have to be done to complete the tranny swap
 

BudW

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I’m not sure about 1980 year parts, but in 1979, the /6 bell housing is the same for 833 or 230 transmissions.

With that said, the shifter will be different as well as clutch disk/plate (flywheel and pressure plates are also the same.

The 8¼” differential is stronger (and heavier) than 7¼” is.
I don’t think a /6 will break a 7¼” - so no worries there.
BudW
 

Rifleshooter

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Ok cool, I found an a833 on ebay for $275 and it's just the Trans with the tail and that's it. Also is it difficult to put a 3.55s in my 7.25 rear in place of my 2.76? And what would be the benefits of doing so?
 

BudW

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If you don’t mind, would you post the eBay link for the above described transmission, please?

I found one which I think you are referring to:
1964 - 1966 Mopar Dodge Plymouth 4 speed 833 Transmission Valiant Dart Cuda A833 | eBay
I just sold one exactly like this one. A great transmission, but it will need some major modifications before it will fit your car (driveshaft related). If it wasn’t for the driveshaft issue, I would give you thumbs up on it.

Don’t forget, 4-speeds are floor shifted, so a floor shifter and all of its linkage is needed, as well as a 4-speed floor hump is needed (as well as floor cut for the hump and welded into place).

The steering column is different – but that won’t matter too much if you don’t mind having the extra shifter handle in place.

All clutch components including bell housing is the same except for clutch disk (different spline) – but that is not hard to change.


On the gear ratio change. Generally the hard part is obtaining the parts (which appears to be easier now than it was a few years ago). Giving parts to a differential shop and having them do it might not be a bad idea for you.
I have done quite a few differential repairs and ratio changes, so I have the tools and know how to do it.
A good technician can change the gear set out in about 3 hours. Most newbie’s would take about 5 or more hours to make the change.

Parts needed is gear set, bearing kit (if any chance any fine metal is in oil, always change the bearings) and lube. Changing both rear wheel bearings is also highly recommended.

If current gear ratio is 2.7, then a 3.23 or 3.55 will fit fine. If you had a 2.2 or 2.4, then you would have problems with fitment.

One thing to consider is anytime a tire change is made or gear ratio is changed, the speedometer gear will also need to be changed to keep speedometer/odometer accurate.

A differential gear change would be needed if you want to increase available engine power (another way to say city gears vs. highway gears) due to mechanical advantage.



My ’86 has 2.2 gears in it and it is a dog. I brag that I can’t spin the tires on ice with it. Well actually I can, but have to work it to do so.

My ’77 wagon has the exact same engine and transmission - but it has 2.9’s in it. Everything else (for the most part) is the same. The wagon will literally do a circle around the ’86 from a stop light (several car lengths) – just because of the gear ratio difference.
My goal is to put 3.23’s into both cars (primarily city driven cars).

Performance Meter
To summarize that thread, my stock ’86 5th Ave 318 2-bbl auto car with 2.2 gears, did 21.1 seconds in ¼ mile.
My ‘77 Volare wagon 318 2-bbl auto car with 2.9 gears, did 17.6 seconds in ¼ mile.

I doubt there is much weight difference between the two cars (not weighted, so not sure). The powertrain is exactly the same. The only real difference is Gear Ratio (4.5 seconds difference).

BudW
 

Rifleshooter

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Yes that it the same trans I found on ebay, the shifter placement will not be a problem as I currently have a 3 speed manual on the floor. As for the gear ratio swap, if I do happen to have the 2.2 or 2.4(I have yet to find out for sure what gear I currently have), what would need to be done in order to put a 3.55 in my 7.25 rear(I do however know for sure I have the 7.25).
 

AJ/FormS

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As for the gear ratio swap, if I do happen to have the 2.2 or 2.4(I have yet to find out for sure what gear I currently have), what would need to be done in order to put a 3.55 in my 7.25 rear

If you purchase an LSD, it comes with a new case ready to install any gearset except those 2.45 and under.
If you haven't already figured it out; performance gears will make your engine feel bigger, by about the percentage amount of the gear difference. And the performance increase will be carried through every gearchange of the tranny.
So with a 29% increase in rear gear, will come about a 29% increase feeling from the engine.This 29% is from 2.76s to 3.55s.And it is from 225 cid to 290cid RELATIVELY speaking.
For a little more performance, in each gear, go to more gears. This shortens the time spent in each gear, while putting down more footpounds in each gear.

Chrysler did make a very nice box,back in the early 60s. It had ratios of 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00, compared to yours of 3.08-1.70-1.00 (IIRC). This would also make a huge improvement.Second gear is a 12.9% improvement, and third is a 40% improvement. This is without any rear gear manipulation.
The tranny, BUD found should be such a one.(contact seller to be sure) But to fit it in your car there will be additional expenses,as he mentioned. Or you can swap in a later year mainshaft and tail, and then it is a swapper's dream.(that's what I did).I guarantee you will like the new splits.ESPECIALLY that new third gear; 40% is a huge change!
This comes with no mpg penalty, so I would do this swap first, cuz maybe it will be enough to satisfy your power requirement.
A swap to the regular A833 would tighten up the 1-2 split, but you would require a minimum 16% additional rear gear to maintain the current first gear performance. But then all the other gearchanges would follow much more closely.
 
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AJ/FormS

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Here is a comparison,

The available trannys are;
A)..........your A230 .............3.08-1.70-1.00
B)the early A833 box.........3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00
C)and the regular A833 of. 2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00
D)the overdrive A833 of.... 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od

line....gear............ tranny...... FD ratios are..................% increase.........%increase
1.....2.76................. A)..........8.50-4.69-2.76..............performance.......cruiseRPM
1b...3.23..................A)..........9.95-5.49-3.23..............plus 17% all.............17
1c...3.55..................A).........10.93-6.04-3.55.............plus 29% al..............29

2.....2.76.................B)........ 8.53-5.30-3.86-2.76...........1-13-40............0
3.....2.76..................C)........7.34-5.30-3.86-2.76........neg14-13-40............0
4.....3.23(+17%)......C)........8.59-6.20-4.52-3.23............1-32-64..........17
5.....3.55(+29%).......B)......10.97-6.82-4.97-3.55.........29-45-80..........29
6....3.55(+29%)........D).....10.97-5.93-3.55-2.59.........29-26-29.... 7 less
7....3.73( +35%).......D).....11.53-6.23-3.73-2.72.............36-33-35.....2 less
Line 2,for my money,provides the best increases for the least money spent,and without the fuel mileage penalty.
Line 4 is a great pkg if your current first gear seems satisfactory to you; with a slight loss of fuel economy.
Line 5 will add performance everywhere, and nearly double your performance in third gear; but with a hefty mileage penalty.And, it will also cost the most to install.
Line6 is pretty cool. modest increases in performance,due wholly to the 3.55s and yet a 7% reduction in hiway rpm.
Line 7 has a pretty low first gear! Suitable for a tow truck!But 2nd is fabulous offering 30mph=2467rpm with tiny 25.5 inch tires. That'll make your slanty scoot!With this combo, you would have one gear on either side of your current 2nd gear, and a top gear equal to your current top gear.
 
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Rifleshooter

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Ok thank you AJ for the specs and help. From all that it seems as if line 2 would be the most beneficial for the lowest cost. Would it be possible to get a performance chart for the A230 trans with the diff size gear ratios of 2.76, 3.23,and 3.55 gears. Bud, the trans on ebay thats currently going for 275 has a tail housing and output shaft on it already.
 

AJ/FormS

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You already have the A230
The tranny in the picture is from the early 60s,and will not fit your car without mods.
The easiest way and best some would say, is to convert it to the modern slip-yoke. We do that by swapping out the mainshaft and rear tail housing
 

Rifleshooter

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what about only putting a bigger gear in the diff, would i be able to get about the same amount of performance increase from putting a bigger gear in vs whatever size i have currently?
 

AJ/FormS

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Yes, that info has been added into post #34

Please remember I have no idea what rear gear you currently have, so my chart is based off guesswork and is for comparison purposes only!
If you currently have something like 2.45s and you don't want to give up any hiway comfort or fuel mileage, then the only option you have is the A833od, and then to also increase the rear gear. Both together such that the ending final drive is the same as the starting final drive.
 
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Rifleshooter

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I'm thinking I'll either go with line 1c or line 6. 1c would definitely be the cheaper solution but 6 would be best for long term use. Thoughts?
 
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