Dodge Aspen restoration project for my exam in one topic.

Kaitsu

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I got a permission to start this topic since I felt like I had too many small topics. So the topic is everything that is related to my project, I need you to be my guidance here whenever I feel lost.

So, I began my project by buying myself a 1980 Dodge Aspen SE, with 318 (4BBL)/904/8.25. Manual AC, rear window defroster and the typical SE package.

Now, I started to do a total overhaul on my project, partially because I want it to roll with me as long as possible, and partailly to get my MoPar mechanics degree.

-ENGINE: I bought LA 360 without oil pan, intake or exhaust manifold. I´m going to put the original intake/carb into the 360, and put performer camshaft since I had no cam for new engine. I´m also planning for some steel exhaust manifold to replace the old cast iron original ones. Otherwise the engine will be stock.

-DRIVETRAIN: Hunting for 727 lock-up, in pieces because I´m going to do a master overhaul for it to keep engaging for years to come. For rear axle, I´d like to have a 8.75 Sure- Grip. (were there 8.75 originally in Aspens?)

-INTERIOR: I´m planning on just keeping the original SE look, just to put a leather couches to replace the old cloth ones full of cig stumps. I´d also like to upgrade my AC to SATC, install a C-cassette AM/FM radio (original) and find original speakers. Also electric locks and windows. I pretty much would like to have the most expensive trim there was.

EXTERIOR: I repaint the car for the original Tan-Mocca two- tone. There are rust here and there because the original rust proof won´t work here. I also need to work on original Vinyl roof that seems to have gotten some moisture under it. I try to change the ATS rims for original spoked ones.

ELECTRIC: Everything will be new. There are too many open wires and so on... (Wonder where can I find original connectors and components.)

CHASSIS and SUSPENSION: Needs new bushings throughout. I cannot find a good set of master bushing set anywhere. Springs I´m trying to swap for Police/heavy duty ones for rear and front. As well as shocks.

I know this will pay me a price of new Aspen and I could´ve found already restorated projects for smaller effort, but, when this is done, I can call myself a mechanic. The idea is to make a car that is both performing as well as luxury, in the name of keeping it original. This also makes me know my car better.

In order to make this happen, I first buy off all the parts and restore them, then tear down my car, sell out the old parts "as is" and try to finance the exterior part of the car. I know there are many who want to upgrade from 225 to 318.
What say you? This is my 1st car and I hope it stays that way. I know its only an F-body, but who knows the value of properly working F-body after 30 years?
 
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aspen77rt

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My two cents.

Get the springs rearched and they generally add a leaf to.

If you change to a 727 you'll have to shorten the DS. If you then add a 8 3/4 you have to shorten again unless you do both at the same time. IMO just keep the 904/8.25 nothing wrong with that combo.

Dump the performer cam. It's a "Chevy Grind". There are way better OTS cams out there or go custom once the combo set. What ever cam you go with, remember to match it with the proper valve springs. If you change the slugs and/or the cam lift starts getting up there...be sure to check the PTV clearance.
 

LSM360

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Hey, F bodies are great! 8.75 were never available in Aspens. I agree with aspen77rt; an 8.25 would be plenty strong for your power and lighter than the 8.75. I think the 904 with a good build is plenty strong too, but you could fit a 727 with shorter driveshaft as aspen77 also mentioned. You can get the larger tie rods and sleeves (11/16th), and poly bushings up front, and the larger police front sway bar, heavy duty shocks, and aluminum or poly urethane k frame bushings and you will have a nice HD front suspension (I have a police front sway bar but believe me you don't want to pay the shipping). In the rear you will need the five leaf springs instead of civi four leafs, which you can find new, but ouch again on shipping. A rear anti sway bar and HD shocks would complete a police rear suspension. You'd need the spring plates including bracket that bottom of sway bar links bolt to. Again, I have set for sale but with price of parts and shipping not worth it. Maybe someone (or yourself?) can weld up what you need?
 
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Kaitsu

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I called to a few metal fabricators and the work they charge is 300 euros per spring, so it is cheaper to buy a new pari of leaves and torsion bars than rearch the originals. Due to tax of labor (24%) its rare to recondition parts.

I want to keep the option for further tuning the engine so I´d like to be safe than sorry and install the more robust rear axle.

What is Chevy Grind? My dealer imported MoPar performance cam for me, and I told him to get right parts, ie. the springs. What are slugs and PTV? I´m sorry I don´t know the slang all the way.

For LSM360: I bought Chrysler shop manuals for 15 bucks a piece and paid 60 bucks for shipping. I´m not a man made of money but I would rather keep the original line from start to finish.
 
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LSM360

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Slugs are Pistons and PTV I believe he is referring to Piston to Valve clearance.

No factory made 8.75 Aspens. The 8.25 had already replaced the 8.75 by time the Aspen arrived.
 

Kaitsu

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About the engine: it was ready for assembly yesterday evening and we went all the way down: bored cylinders to first oversize, balanced the crank, evened out the decks (I dunno the english word, but the mating surface for cylinder heads on the block) made the necessary polishing and imported new water/oil pumps, fuel pump, timing gears and chains, absolutely everything. We ran onto a problem with heads cause new valves were too "thin" for the valve guiders. The shop custom made a bronze guiders to make the new valves fit in perfectly. Has anyone heard of this type of bronze replacements?
 

aspen77rt

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Sorry it was late.
PTV= piston to valve
slugs= pistons
OTS= off the shelf

Chevy lobe=cam is ground (lobes) for the chevy .842 lifter in mind. The Mopar .904 lifter diameter allows for a more aggressive ramp. The point is the larger mopar lifter can allow for a faster lobe ramp rate, giving a higher peak lift than a chevy lobe at a given duration. Basically.
 

Kaitsu

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I haven´t seen my cam yet, but we spoke about a cam that is a bit aggressive and faster. By that I mean having taller and steeper "beaks" of cam. Not sure if you understood. I hope the dealer went with MoPar Performance and not Edelbrock ones....
 

Kaitsu

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I had a theory lesson yesterday and we discussed about elek-trisitee (electricity) and we found out that we need to recondition/rebuild only one harness just to show that we understand the thing, so I think I´ll do trailer wiring harness and see if there are wiring harness builders that make brand new wire bundles with correct colors, lenghts and connectors. Whew what a relief since I´m not too interested in electric routing... I know there are at least a mile of wiring in an F-body if there are every accessory there was available, so It´ll cost me much more compared to DIY.

I was also thinking of rear axle: I do as you advised and keep the original 8.25 since it already has sure-grip and is meant for the car. I just remove it, rebuild it and repaint it.
 

slant6billy

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Your 80 would utilize the M chassis harness (hi beam on the stalk, not the floor). It would be a good check to make certain wires look good , relays and check for spider wires; that is over 34 years many hands may have added stuff. Splices, jumpers, wire nuts and other goober electrician stuff. I thought someone had info on NOS harness or repop stuff. I'd love to redo my 79 with an entire new harness
 

Kaitsu

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Yeah, front end and under dashboard harnesses look like a time bomb: open ended wires here and there, some splices made with tape.... a good reason to make car electricity- part of my exam. I saw that there is reman harnesses for more iconic cars, like Charger, Dart and Challenger but nothing on more "under radar" vehicles. Too bad that normal MoPars haven´t got the attention they deserve when everyone always speaks of General Lee when they hear word "MoPar" or supercharger. At least here in Finland.
 

Kaitsu

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I red Mopar shop manual about ignition power supply when I found out about this ignition computer located on the air cleaner. However, Im using a free flow air cleaner without the whole frying pan so what kind of cars were these all computer things used? My car runs good without them anyway. Also I noted if all cars have the electronic control unit computer on the passenger side of the firewall? Got a little scared when I red the sentence "latest 1980 new decade microprocessor innovation"

If those computers are for emissions only, then I most likely won´t have/need them since this was pollute-freely country insted of pollute-free country at the time of Aspen.
 

Kaitsu

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The current engine is 318, and I´m swapping to 360 on my exam. They both are said to have these spark control computer on the air cleaner that set ignition time delay according to the carb suction or something. I was wondering if the car can run without these microprocessors and are just for emission control. They have also something to do with lean- burn system that have something to do with emission reduction.

I was studying 1980 MoPar passenger cars for things that are commanded by computing device when I made a conclusion that only things are these processors, other on the air cleaner and other on passenger side firewall.
 

Kaitsu

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An update for my engine: It doesn´t have original Thermo-Quad as 4BBL but some Holley 4BBL instead. Would You keep or hunt for Quad carb? The intake manifold however seems original with its cast marks etc.
 

Monkeyed

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An update for my engine: It doesn´t have original Thermo-Quad as 4BBL but some Holley 4BBL instead. Would You keep or hunt for Quad carb? The intake manifold however seems original with its cast marks etc.

to answer a couple of your questions,.. the lean-burn computer on the air cleaner would have controlled the ignition timing, and the engine wouldn't run without it. I don't think it controlled the fuel/carb on an '80. the other on the passenger fire wall, was the older way that the factory controlled ignition timing electronically. If there was a problem with the original lean-burn (if yours was equipped with it in the first place) the dealerships were authorized (from what I've read) to switch back to the module on the firewall set up, since the lean-burn was so difficult to diagnose. It's pre-OBDI so there was NO on board diagnostic port to aide in trouble shooting.

the fact that there is a holley 4bbl instead of a thermoquad points to someone else down the line converting it away from the computer controlled setup. If you believe in the "leave well enough alone" theory, if it works leave it on there. but if you want to go more of a factory correct style build, swap it. The thermoquad should give you better mileage, more power, and improved driveability, IF you take the time to get it set up properly.
 

Kaitsu

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Thank you for your answer. I think I´m going to find ready-to-install T-Quad somewhere since I already got the auto shop manual which explains everything there is to know about the original carbs.
 

Kaitsu

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Today I found out that it takes both manual and automatic transmission knowledge to qualify as a transmission mechanic. Ideas of first swapping from 318 to 260 and use it for summer with the A727, then at winters use slant six with 4 gear manual tranny and keep swapping pending on season? This should be simple with one manufacturers swap kits and clutch pedal, brackets and shifters? Or am I lost again?
 

Kaitsu

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The benefit is to know how to reconstruct a manual tranny for the Transmission Mechanics degree. No book handles the swap but I´m just curious could this be accomplished with OEM parts and with work. I sure don´t know how large thing it is to swap the engine and tranny twice a year just for easier handling at winters.

I know that I can´t use automatic trannys column shifter for manual trans and would need to do a hole to floor to fit in the gearstick. Although it would be nice to have a column shifter. Today I realized this will go out of hands when it comes to spending, but what wouldn´t I do for my first car and first F- body?
 
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