Gas mileage LOW...help me out
- Thread starter shadango
- Start date
shadango
Well-Known Member
The_red_barron and I found (just now) that after being run and then parked, and as the engine heat soaks, there is fuel dripping from the butterfly rod at the bottom of the carb onto the exhaust....NOT GOOD. Looking in the throat of the carb, we could see fuel squirting out as it just sat.....from the heat.
Would a "cool carb" plate help ya think?
I cant figure out why there would be fuel dripping from the butterfly rod.....only doing it when sitting after being run, and only for a short time...but enough to make me worry about fire...
Leaking from the shaft at the body as shown in the picture and then traveling along the spring and then dripping....at the rate of maybe a drop every 5 seconds or so....we took the air cleaner off and then within a minute or two it stopped altogether.
Would a "cool carb" plate help ya think?
I cant figure out why there would be fuel dripping from the butterfly rod.....only doing it when sitting after being run, and only for a short time...but enough to make me worry about fire...
Leaking from the shaft at the body as shown in the picture and then traveling along the spring and then dripping....at the rate of maybe a drop every 5 seconds or so....we took the air cleaner off and then within a minute or two it stopped altogether.
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Float to high?
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Float or your needle and seat have junk in it or its just junk/hard.
shadango
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys.....
But just wondering, if its a high float or needle/seat issue, why does it do it ONLY after sitting and only for a short time like it does?
But just wondering, if its a high float or needle/seat issue, why does it do it ONLY after sitting and only for a short time like it does?
shadango
Well-Known Member
I have run into those issues before on other cabrs, but the problem is evident at all times....this is only happening when HOT and only right after shutdown and it stops as engine cools.
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shadango
Well-Known Member
Is it possible (advisable) to pull the top half of the carb off to get to the floats and check for dirt in the bowl without pulling the whole carb off the manifold?
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Yes it is, but look at your pic, that gasket looks soaked as hell so you might do well with a spare.
I think its just a couple linkages, like the choke, pump shot rod, then the round robin of screws.
You could then check your float level and the condition of your needle and seat.
It can be a bit frustrating, so you need to know where you float should be prior to pulling it apart, too low and you run out of fuel when hard on it, too much and your dumping fuel.
Alot of thos 2bbls carbs there if not too far off wont leak much or any while running but just dump the fuel.
You might look on ebay for a cheap kit and float and simply go through it and that would eliminate alot of possible issues and ensure a good carb for a while.
I think its just a couple linkages, like the choke, pump shot rod, then the round robin of screws.
You could then check your float level and the condition of your needle and seat.
It can be a bit frustrating, so you need to know where you float should be prior to pulling it apart, too low and you run out of fuel when hard on it, too much and your dumping fuel.
Alot of thos 2bbls carbs there if not too far off wont leak much or any while running but just dump the fuel.
You might look on ebay for a cheap kit and float and simply go through it and that would eliminate alot of possible issues and ensure a good carb for a while.
volare 77
Well-Known Member
I have a rebuilt 318 carb just like that but I`m pretty sure they are different for the 6cyl. Anyways, the top comes off pretty easy but as said the gasket most likely will need to be replaced. It isn`t really that much more involved to remove the carb. The base gasket looks like the thick one so that helps with heat soak. To set the float it would be best to have the carb off too. The rubber on the needle and seat can get hard and not seal/seat well also.
shadango
Well-Known Member
The carb itself was a new reman in box (even still had the shrink wrap on it) old stock from the 80s....
Ran (runs) pretty good, much better than the first used BBD we picked up....
But yeah I thought the same thing about the gasket being soaked....
We have a kit as well, but it was opened and not 100% sure whats missing or not.
May just get a new kit and floats from rock auto and give it a shot.
Rock auto also sells Autoline remans that they claim are built right.....shafts rebushed, vac tested etc....$180. Ouch. But might be good to have TWO working carbs so as to be able to swap one on while the other is being worked on in case we run into issues....the car is a daily driver.
In the info area it says :
Carter 2 Barrel; Reman
Ran (runs) pretty good, much better than the first used BBD we picked up....
But yeah I thought the same thing about the gasket being soaked....
We have a kit as well, but it was opened and not 100% sure whats missing or not.
May just get a new kit and floats from rock auto and give it a shot.
Rock auto also sells Autoline remans that they claim are built right.....shafts rebushed, vac tested etc....$180. Ouch. But might be good to have TWO working carbs so as to be able to swap one on while the other is being worked on in case we run into issues....the car is a daily driver.
In the info area it says :
Carter 2 Barrel; Reman
- All base, body and air horns are stamped prior to disassembly to ensure units are reassembled with the proper “companion” parts. Internal parts such as jets and metering rods are identified, to ensure they remain with the original castings, where variations may have occurred at the manufacturing level. This process ensures that original flow characteristics are maintained.
- After disassembly all parts are inspected and cleaned in industrial equipment. Internal parts such as gaskets, needle and seats and plunger cups are discarded. All white metal castings are chemically processed to restore the factory finish. All aluminium castings are sandblasted or tumbler processed to restore the finish. Bases are surfaced to ensure proper mating with the body assembly and the manifold. Mounting holes are refaced to assure proper torque of mounting fasteners.
- During our sub-assembly process all threads, inlets and vacuum pipes are inspected and repaired or replaced if necessary. Throttle and choke plates are inspected and replaced if not serviceable. Throttle bushings are installed wherever throttle shaft play is not within tolerances. Completed base assemblies are checked for vacuum integrity. Any base that does not meet our specifications must be repaired prior to use.
- Throughout our assembly process all body and calibration components are reassembled to the original unit to maintain product calibration. All assembly components are tested prior to product assembly.
- Completed product is flow tested throughout all ranges of operation to ensure proper calibration. Choke adjustment, idle speed and air-screw settings are made during product testing. This process allows the technician to start the vehicle upon product installation. Final adjustments may be necessary due to varied engine condition.
- All AutoLine Carburetors are heat shrink packaged with installation instructions, mounting gaskets and specific technical bulletins.
shadango
Well-Known Member
So to make things more fun ---- red tag on carb and barcode sticker on carb shows 8198S
The parts kits at Rock auto for the 80 Volare say
Fits2BBL; w/ Carter Carb.; w/ Mexico Emissions; BBD; 8314-8315
Or2BBL; w/ Carter Carb.; BBD; 8250, 8286-8287; w/ Canada or Export Emissions
The parts kits at Rock auto for the 80 Volare say
Fits2BBL; w/ Carter Carb.; w/ Mexico Emissions; BBD; 8314-8315
Or2BBL; w/ Carter Carb.; BBD; 8250, 8286-8287; w/ Canada or Export Emissions
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
You mentioned a good point, every nos carb ive bought has had hard bad rubber tipped needles and so Ive always had to pull them apart.
You might look on ebay, your looks like a super six 2bbl?
Listing like this, although this is for a 318 but like $70
Carburetor Fit For Dodge Plymouth MOPAR-273-318-ENGINE-2BBL-CARTER 1966-1973 New | eBay
Ebay search
You might look on ebay, your looks like a super six 2bbl?
Listing like this, although this is for a 318 but like $70
Carburetor Fit For Dodge Plymouth MOPAR-273-318-ENGINE-2BBL-CARTER 1966-1973 New | eBay
Ebay search
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
It's a simple easy to work on carb why does it need to be replaced?
volare 77
Well-Known Member
shadango
Well-Known Member
Not replaced per se --- so the car doesnt have much down time while we putz around.
That said, rebuilding only goes so far ---- these carbs seem to tend to leak air at the shafts as has been said and rebushing is a process I am not sure I want to tackle or not...
But THAT said, this one shouldnt need rebushed already unless it was sloppy when rebuilt....
Rumor has it that many of the remans these days are junk.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
You got to go into this with a semi open mind, id just get a float, a kit and 2 cans of carbs cleaner and figure out when you can spend two hours on the car.
Id not be concerned about the shaft at this point as even if it did suck a hint of air which its probably not you can adjust it out via the air screws.
If its that important and there is no time there is always the option of a local shop to drop it off at while one is at work or school but it would be a waste of a couple hundred bucks or so. That carb there is as simple as they come.
If it were mine and I was really pressed for time id just pull the top, change out the needle and seat and install, set the new float and put the top back on and that would address the leaking, but the bottom gasket between the baseplate and body is one that can always stand to be replaced.
No matter how you do it, the fix is easy.
Id not be concerned about the shaft at this point as even if it did suck a hint of air which its probably not you can adjust it out via the air screws.
If its that important and there is no time there is always the option of a local shop to drop it off at while one is at work or school but it would be a waste of a couple hundred bucks or so. That carb there is as simple as they come.
If it were mine and I was really pressed for time id just pull the top, change out the needle and seat and install, set the new float and put the top back on and that would address the leaking, but the bottom gasket between the baseplate and body is one that can always stand to be replaced.
No matter how you do it, the fix is easy.
shadango
Well-Known Member
Alrright we'll give it a shot.
Not worried so much about that shaft sucking air as much as the gas leaking out of it...LOL....BOOOOM!
So its a must to replace the carb to manifold gasket EVERY time the carb comes off and back on I suppose....
Not worried so much about that shaft sucking air as much as the gas leaking out of it...LOL....BOOOOM!
So its a must to replace the carb to manifold gasket EVERY time the carb comes off and back on I suppose....
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Not worried so much about that shaft sucking air as much as the gas leaking out of it...LOL....BOOOOM!
If you fix the float/seat issue it wont have gas leak from it, the shaft does not run through a wet bowl, it leaks fuel there now as it can and the rest goes down the intake manifold.
So its a must to replace the carb to manifold gasket EVERY time the carb comes off and back on I suppose.... Your kit should have it in it.
If you fix the float/seat issue it wont have gas leak from it, the shaft does not run through a wet bowl, it leaks fuel there now as it can and the rest goes down the intake manifold.
So its a must to replace the carb to manifold gasket EVERY time the carb comes off and back on I suppose.... Your kit should have it in it.
